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jwold Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2008 Posts: 2088 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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jwold wrote: |
jwold wrote: |
Juanito84 wrote: |
Either:
A) Not enough vacuum at the air-cleaner or there is something restriction the air flow to the airecleaner.
B) Too much blow by in the engine that is making the crankcase fill with too much blow by gases for the aircleaner to handle.
C) Or there is a leak somewhere else that you have overlooked.
A) Note that the original oil-bath air-cleaners all had a weighted flap (or flaps) that caused a bit of vacuum in the air-cleaner itself. Sometimes this flap may get stuck open. Also sometimes there may be another connection to the aircleaner, like the one for the EVAP charcoal canister, that may not be connected or may have a leaky hose/component that is droping the air-cleaner's vacuum level.
B) Both normal and abnormal engine wear may cause the cylinder rings to wear out and leak excesive engine gases into the crankcase. This of course over-pressures the crankcase and blow air out the inlet in front of the crankshaft pulley. (PS. "Front" is torward's front of vehicle.) It also causes other problems. A poor engine build can cause this to happen very early in the engine life. I suppose a very restricted exhaust might also blow by faulty exhaust valve guides too.
C) You probably made sure where the oil is coming from but never rule out other possiblities without knowing for sure. |
Interesting information about the air cleaner and how it affects the blowback issue. So, I have a similar problem to the original poster. While I do have a stock air cleaner, I'm not sure if it's correct for my engine (1970 single port-no charcoal cannister) . On the left side of the air cleaner, there's a little port
that I have previously had capped off. Should that port be left open and will that potentially reduce the amount of oil sling? |
Following up on my own little experiment...
Nope, no effect whatsoever. |
I noticed my leak seemed to be getting worse, I discovered that my crankcase pulley bolt wasn't even finger tight! We'll see tomorrow if that had anything to do with my oily mess. Yes, I've checked to see if my breather tube/hose is clogged...it isn't. |
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Glenn73 Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2011 Posts: 1190 Location: West Jordan UT
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Ryan5895 Samba Member
Joined: January 15, 2012 Posts: 27 Location: Bristol, IN
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:47 am Post subject: |
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Have you pulled the pulley to look at it? I'm have the same problem, only mine is alot worse. About a half quart leaks out after a quick cruise around the neighborhood. So I pulled my pulley off, (It is an aftermarket degree pulley I had just bought) and a small burr had not only cut a groove in the case but all the material it cut away built up on the burr and made it exponentially worse... so basically there is about .100 gap between the case and the pulley spirals... I am hoping to hell that a sand seal pulley and seal will solve this problem because so help me god, if I have to buy a new case... hopefully you can see this...[/img] _________________ Are those vise-grips holding the muffler on? |
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jgrexx Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012 Posts: 342 Location: Alabama
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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with my stock pulley mine finally stopped leaking. if there is too much oil in the case it will come out behind the pulley. really mine didn't stop until the oil level was below the full line on the dipstick about 1/16-1/8 of an inch.
...anyways i didn't wanna fool with it anymore or risk having a small oil drip there so i got a sand seal pulley.
small things like that irritate the crap out of me lol. i can't stand for everything to be perfect and then have something like a small drip of oil somewhere to screw it all up. _________________ 1970 Baja Bug
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=520964&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5493 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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Bow Wow in Lynnwood WA seems to have found it. The baffle at the bottom of the alternator stand was close to completely plugged. The stand holds enough that I couldn't tell adding 1/2 quart. I think the engine was recently put back in service as the car seems to have had little use in the last few years. It doesn't help that the engine has racked up the miles, but blow by isn't bad and compression is quite uniform (110-115 psi.) He was impressed with how well the F.I was working.
It still drips just a little from the valve covers and a couple push rod tubes, but so far the engine compartment is staying dry.
While there I had a loose front tie rod end replaced (outer right.) It drives better at speed. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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jgrexx Samba Member
Joined: July 19, 2012 Posts: 342 Location: Alabama
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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i will say my oil baffle was installed upside down. i'm not sure if that would make oil come out around the pulley or not. anyways i replaced it the right way with a new one when i redid everything.
this is the correct way:
fins pointing downward and opening to the right. previously they were pointing upward opening to the left. _________________ 1970 Baja Bug
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=520964&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5493 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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I thought I should revisit this. Bow-Wow of Lynnwood got rid of the problem last fall, and shortly after the car was garaged for the winter. The first couple drive this spring everything was still fine. Then it started blowing oil around the pulley again.
The crankcase vent tube on the F.I. engine had collapsed again. It comes out at the base of the filler and bends tightly around the alternator bracket. I went to my local Ace Hardware and found a spring to put inside the rubber crankcase vent hose. It was a compression spring, about 15mm O.D. with about 1mm wire diameter. It was about 120mm long. I stretched it to about 150mm long and slid it inside the bottom of the crankcase vent line so it couldn't collapse as it snaked around the alternator. After a few more drives this seems to have fixed the problem. Once again I can park the car overnight and just get a drip or 2 from the engine. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5493 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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I'm still fishing for ideas to slow the oil blow from around the pulley. My spring inside the crankcase vent tube is still in place and keeping the tube open. I went to check the oil level today and got 3 drips of oil on the back of my tee-shirt! It drips on the bumper when the engine cover is open. It seems to be the only oil I'm loosing, as it has been 3 months and it's only down 1/2 quart.
This is an older stock F.I. engine. I'm pretty sure it has all of the cars 106,000 miles on it. The crank end play is a little loose, 0.008 inch, but not concerning. The compression is 110 to 115 psi on all cylinders. It does give a little puff of blue smoke on the first acceleration when cold (can't see it if you are driving, but I can see it when my wife drives it.) It has the stock air cleaner except for the fresh air/ hot air snorkel thing that attaches to the bottom of the filter cover, because that thermostat is stuck and always feeds the engine hot air (I have the hole in the rear tin plugged to prevent overheating.) _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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magiceddie88 Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2005 Posts: 254 Location: Alaska
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Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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Just watched this any feedback, knowledge, or thoughts?
He brings something up about 7 mins in...about pulley threads, whats your thoughts on it?
Link
It's not the belt, it is oil, every fill up i go back check my oil level and clean the spray mist drips off of my rear apron. Sigh* _________________ '57 Ragtop
‘60 Kombi
'69 Westy
Instagram: Magiceddielive
Drive alive
Enthusiast-would be an understatement.
...Air-cooled by SummerFroze by Winter...
www.arcticaircooledvws.com
Wild Bill wrote: |
"Life In the FAST LANE". What the Hell does that feel like? |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5493 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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Reversed threads would definitely cause a problem. A couple other things that can cause problems, mostly with after market pulleys, is major diameter of the thread being to small, or the thread was to slight.
On the other hand, the '79 F.I. engine in my wife's Bug is basically stock. The air cleaner hot air pickup is removed because that thermostat is stuck on (and the hole in the front tin is plugged.) The thermostat under the 1,2 cylinders is missing, but the flaps in the fan shroud are present and the factory springs are holding them open. The EGR and decel valve are disconnected. (my wife likes the way the F.I. runs, but I don't have to pass smog.) Aside from that I have a stock late F.I. motor with about 107k miles. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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jwold Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2008 Posts: 2088 Location: Portland, OR
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Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 10:43 am Post subject: |
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jwold wrote: |
jwold wrote: |
jwold wrote: |
Juanito84 wrote: |
Either:
A) Not enough vacuum at the air-cleaner or there is something restriction the air flow to the airecleaner.
B) Too much blow by in the engine that is making the crankcase fill with too much blow by gases for the aircleaner to handle.
C) Or there is a leak somewhere else that you have overlooked.
A) Note that the original oil-bath air-cleaners all had a weighted flap (or flaps) that caused a bit of vacuum in the air-cleaner itself. Sometimes this flap may get stuck open. Also sometimes there may be another connection to the aircleaner, like the one for the EVAP charcoal canister, that may not be connected or may have a leaky hose/component that is droping the air-cleaner's vacuum level.
B) Both normal and abnormal engine wear may cause the cylinder rings to wear out and leak excesive engine gases into the crankcase. This of course over-pressures the crankcase and blow air out the inlet in front of the crankshaft pulley. (PS. "Front" is torward's front of vehicle.) It also causes other problems. A poor engine build can cause this to happen very early in the engine life. I suppose a very restricted exhaust might also blow by faulty exhaust valve guides too.
C) You probably made sure where the oil is coming from but never rule out other possiblities without knowing for sure. |
Interesting information about the air cleaner and how it affects the blowback issue. So, I have a similar problem to the original poster. While I do have a stock air cleaner, I'm not sure if it's correct for my engine (1970 single port-no charcoal cannister) . On the left side of the air cleaner, there's a little port
that I have previously had capped off. Should that port be left open and will that potentially reduce the amount of oil sling? |
Following up on my own little experiment...
Nope, no effect whatsoever. |
I noticed my leak seemed to be getting worse, I discovered that my crankcase pulley bolt wasn't even finger tight! We'll see tomorrow if that had anything to do with my oily mess. Yes, I've checked to see if my breather tube/hose is clogged...it isn't. |
A follow up. Upon inspection (and a lot of other messing around fixing and replacing things) The bolts holding the case halves together weren't even finger tight! |
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