How long will it run? Clunker 1835.--It's running!

[DonziGT230]

I got a free seized 1835 and opened it up to see what happened. It locked during a WOT high RPM run. One of the rod bearings was worn & pounded so badly that one shell slipped over the other locking it up. Another one was on it's way and had turned the rod and crank blue. It also had an open vent hose pointed straight up and it was a Glamis sandrail so plenty of extra grit in the case to work on parts. Thrust surface on the case has about .052" slop, all mains are loose in the case and sloppy on the crank, P/C are worn, cam bearings badly worn, oil pump worn & scarred, mismatched heads and one head badly cracked between the valves, cam gears scarred, the seized rod journal is jacked up, cam & lifters worn, etc. The case is .060 line bore + wear from shifting bearings, crank is already ground to .020 + damage & wear. Pretty much a pile of mostly unusable junk parts worth near nothing....So I'm putting it back together.

I'm going to do a home made fix on the thrust using JBweld or shims cut to slip over the bearing (still undecided), re-secure the mains to the case (Locktite or JBweld, undecided), sand the roughness down on the rod journal, home surfacing the case halves, and reuse everything other than the destroyed rod bearings. Hell, might as well JB the case halves cuz there'll be nothing left to salvage once it blows.

It's going into a two seat sand rail and it'll be pounded like a race car. Somewhere between seizure at start-up and a few seasons; how long you give it?
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I refuse to call a distributor a dizzy--earthquake.

The glass is always full and I can prove it!--me

[Max Welton]

Who knows? How long is a fish?

Max
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[DonziGT230]

Who knows? How long is a fish?

Easy one, and every fish is the same. Measure from the furthest forward part of the head to the longest tip of the tail and that is it's length. ONE EXCEPTION--it's being measured by the guy who caught it; add 10% plus 5 more for every beer had before the catch.

Ok, I'm not looking to actually get an accurate estimate, just doing this for fun. If someone else were doing it I'd be curious and get in the game just for S&Gs so I thought I'd put it up for debate and entertainment. If I thought any of these parts were still good I wouldn't chance destroying them like I may, but it seems like a rare opportunity to do some "scientific" research that can't be passed up.
_________________
I refuse to call a distributor a dizzy--earthquake.

The glass is always full and I can prove it!--me

[nsracing]

If this is for April's fools, you are a few months early.

Just give me the money you will spend on this junk trying to get it to live again. At least one of us will be happy. You will not make it passed the driveway going it your way.

Only thing saveable in this is the flywheel...maybe.

[Quokka42]

If you are using JBweld under pressure, high temperatures and oil - maybe a few hours?

How Long is in Hong Kong.

You can try shimming it, don't forget to leave a way for the oil to get through. You might be surprised how long it goes if you avoid epoxy and don't rev it very high.

[mark tucker]

with out seeing & checking it all it's kinda hard, a stacked bearing usualy has a out of round journal, but not always(but I would bet good$$$ it is) so if you want a real time answer I have it for you when your ready and Im usualy pretty close, just a few feet off at the most.

[[email protected]]

That engines has a 0.0% chance of seizing and a 100% of throwing the rod through the top of the case. I've built engines specifically designed to blow up for a show and even I didn't use parts that were that bad.

[baked beetle]

What a waste of time
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These days people like me are hard to find- we don't give a damn what you think, about what we think. - JR
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66' His
57' Theirs
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[slalombuggy]

[Jon65]

My advice,

Just get what ever parts that may be saveable (if there even is any ), junk it, and don't look back. Go spend the money on an engine that you know will last.



Just my opinion.

[SamT]

You will be surprised how long it will last. We used to run junk like that I see it all the time in motors people bring me. I wouldn't worry about the slop in the thrust. Your main enemies is how bad that head is anda the spun rod. Id hone and ring the jugs. Use emery cloth to polish journals. Lap the valvea. A loose old motor will out live a brand new one someone assembled with too tight of clearances.

what I see kill most sloppy motors is too much compression and pistons start slapping theheads due to guys not checking deck height.

Build it as "right" as you can and don't run that spun rod and you may get a couple seasons out of it.

[DonziGT230]

Not April fool's, I'm doing it. Money spent, well....you won't even get lunch money which is why I decided to give it a go. The only thing I'll be buying is sealant and 2 rod bearings if I can't find used ones the right size.

So the JBweld will dissolve or are you just thinking it'll flake off? And thanks for the tip on the oil hole. I'll be using extra crank shims so they should be ok, but I'll check before I get to cutting them.

Haven't measured the rod, but the oil clearance will be stupid loose with the shagged journal, that will be my #1 concern for any longevity. I may try some kinda BS fix to tighten it up.

Roy has great confidence and has posed a definite challenge, love it! I'll try & remember to roll video at start-up/blow-up.

It is somewhat a waste of time, but an interesting experiment and it's also practice. I'm gathering the makings for a 2332 bit by bit so this'll be my practice motor assembly. I understand proper engine building techniques very well, but never done a VW and there's nothing like putting that case together yourself to get the feel.

SamT's glass is ALWAYS full....good for you!

So one challenge to get a full season and one to not use the fire suppression equipment at start-up....cool.

I'll try & get pics & specs of the crank & rods up later.
_________________
I refuse to call a distributor a dizzy--earthquake.

The glass is always full and I can prove it!--me

[[email protected]]

Come one guys. When you spin a rod and torch the bearing, the rod is junk(or at the bare minimum must have the cap recut, rebored, straightened etc) and the crank must be ground. I have never seen an engine where the rod spun and you could put it back together and get it to run without at mimimum replacing those two pieces. You want to try? Good luck.

[Wayne26]

I haved tried twice to just put a new rod bearing in after I spun it. it spun again within the first 5 mins of driving, second time soon as I hit 5500 rpm.

I can say the engine lasted the weekend of trailing with a very noisy spun rod bearing and almost no oil pressure. the last day of the trip it spun a second rod bearing but still made the 15 miles home.

[SamT]

Surely you can find a rod to run, I have one if you want. Id seriously not run that spun rod if your serious about this lasting a while.

I tore down a 1835 yesterday, parts had some recycled VW symbol on them. It was a total junk build, but wasn't blown.

Someone rebuilt the rods, but the new bushings were loose in the ends.

[DonziGT230]

Actually roy, I've done similar on two engines. One for a friends 2275 in a rail and one on a motorcycle. Both were cases where the person didn't have the $ for a true fix and decided to gamble. I ran the bike to the limit (14,500 RPM) repeatedly before giving it back to him and it kept going 'till he wrecked it months later. The 2275 did a couple trips last season, don't know if he's run it this year. For the bike I hand sanded the rod & cap to tighten it back up some and put in a new bearing, the rail just got a used bearing I had laying around that happened to fit. Both got a hand polish on the journal to make it less F'd up, but neither were perfect. Neither was stacked & seized, just spun and knocking like hell. Some luck and some really trying to get it as close to right came together 2 outa 2, let's see what my try brings with something more broken.

I've got a couple old rods laying around so I'll probably swap out the bad ones.
_________________
I refuse to call a distributor a dizzy--earthquake.

The glass is always full and I can prove it!--me

[DonziGT230]

Thanks for the rod offer Sam!
_________________
I refuse to call a distributor a dizzy--earthquake.

The glass is always full and I can prove it!--me

[Buellistic]

As an ichthyologist, I have to point out that the proper way to measure a fish is to measure a straight line from the tip of the snout to the posterior-most point of the caudal peduncle. This is commonly referred to as "Standard Length".

The actual finnage has to be ignored because of the fact that many specimens will have damaged fins.

[zombievws]

lol funny stuff

[DonziGT230]