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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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 Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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It's been a long two days, but most of the area around the gas tank and frame rails has been dealt with. All that remains is about 1/4 of the area, mostly around the drivers side wheel. I need to remove a bunch of things from there to clean things up, but it will be good, soon.
A few things that have been invaluable:
The IR 90* grinder is THE tool for rust work on a vanagon. I don't have a particularly big compressor, so I often have to wait for it to catch up, but this tool is key. Add in some 36 grit 2'' disks which are pretty cheap when you buy a bag, and you can turn nasty rust into something pretty shiny in minutes. I also have the brown 3m scotchbright disks, which pretty effectively remove paint if that's all you want to do. Then of course, the classics.... red scotch brights. These are the key last step in absolutely everything. Heck, I even use them as a sponge with all washing and chemicals. Buying a box of 25 is the way to go, way cheaper then purchasing them piecemeal the way I have all these years. (part number 07447, available on amazon or in stock at most NAPAs).
I have been scrubbing and scrubbing and using many chemicals, I found that these gloves work particularly well for their chemical resistance. The normal Nitrile ones I use daily are not nearly as thick as these, but do not deal with acetone or laquer thinner well.
These are the ones to own!
I used the sanding disks to remove all the rusted spots and feather out the painted areas immediately around the rust, then removed all the factory chassis wax using scotchbrights and acetone. Lots of scrubbing. Acetone was required as nothing else was effective on this wax. I must say, the factory wax was (is) awesome! Rust exists everywhere where the wax is missing, and everywhere where the wax is present, you cant even get it off without dissolving it! Then, a final scrubbing with scotchbright to scuff things up, a round of scrubbing with POR15 Marine Clean (Degreaser), and then 45 minutes of exposure with POR15 Metal Ready (Etch) by spraying it every 5 minutes left the metal completely ready for some paint!
ALOT of work. Having a lift would be nice, but we can't all be so lucky.
Note the wax, the yellow stuff.
Most of the wax removed from these ceiling panels that are in good shape, the black is the original paint under the wax. It's all getting a coat of POR15 over it all anyway to seal it up, but most of it's in pretty okay shape.
Then two coats of POR15 Satin Black applied with a 2'' brush (Which will be disposed of). The trick with POR15 is to always pour it out of the container and into a cup, after stirring. Use what's in your cup, never pour it back. After pouring your cup, clean the rim of the container SPOTLESS with a bit of lacquer thinner on a paper towel, purge the air out of the container with MIG welding gas, put down a layer of plastic wrap between the lid and the container, seal it up, and store it in the fridge.
It will last pretty much forever that way.
Dress in clothes you can THROW AWAY, because whatever you get POR15 on, remains painted forever. When laying on your back painting like Michelangelo, proper protection is nice.
I'll snap some pics of the painted product tomorrow.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry." |
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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One of these little funky bits that secure the fuel vent line spacers to the tank is broken off, but it's a clean break, and I intend to repair it.
I cleaned it up a bit with some acetone, and used a bit of west systems epoxy to reinstall it.
Hopefully this will hold everything in place nicely.
The 3/16'' size Gates Barricade Hose (J30R14 rated) is quite tight on the nipples, I mean QUITE tight. They require WD40 and some ingenuity to get on, and while I was searching for the proper sized Oetiker clamps to secure these, after installing them I am confident that they will require no such clamp. It was suggested by one of the vanagon venders that they don't use clamps on their installation of this hose and sure enough, you can see it distinctly bulge over the nipple and fits very well. A large zip tie snugged up makes it so it can't turn or pull off, plenty of clamping force.
I actually really like this size hose and how snug it fits.
Lastly (for tonight), this is my plan with the POR15 applied parts and frame pieces. POR15 is highly reactive to UV and if exposed to UV, will turn to a chalky grey quickly and start to fail. Not good.
The solution, Sand it with 320 grit to scuff it up until it looses it's luster, then top coat it with "Something". The game plan was to top coat everything with several coats of black wax, which will certainly count as a sufficient top coat, but in all areas where UV exposure will be substantial I will be adding a top coat of paint as well.
Rustoleum Profesional grade paint is my choice of paint for this job. This particular paint is extremely resilient in my experience and really holds up well. I work for a company that restores 1945 built US Military Surplus D.U.K.W boats, and this is the paint we use on axles and suspension pieces, often with little prep. Of all the paints used throughout these boats, this paint seems to hold up the best, completely resisting rusting despite regularly being dipped in the water and run hot.
So, I've scuffed up the POR15/WURTH Rust Guard that was used on the fuel filler neck, and applied a coat of the paint. Over this will go some wax.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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The epoxy repair to the nipple on the fuel tank held great, and the vent lines are back in place. I have not found an acceptable source for the 12mm (?) vaccuum line to replace that line with, so it looks like I may be reusing that line. : /
Anyone know of a place to get that big vent line from the charcoal canister to the control thing in the engine bay?
Since goal 1 of this entire project is to repair and PREVENT corrosion, everything is being treated as thoroughly as possible. That includes this CAD/Zinc plated sending unit.
All the stainless steel nuts on the stainless steel studs have been treated with a coat of anti seize and secured to the proper spec with a torque wrench. The entire unit was then taped off and received a coat of Chassis wax (Eastwood HD Anti-rust). Anything is better then no coating, and I'm a big fan of the wax products after seeing how well they've held up all these years.
I also managed to purchase a set of tires for this bus today. I knew what I was planning to run and spent a great many months keeping my eye on craigslist to find the right deal, and picked up a set of 235/75/15 BFG Mud Terrain tires with about 2/3 of their tread left, and all exactly evenly worn for very few dollars. Heck, I paid the guy's asking price and got an anvil thrown in, which is apparently worth ALOT (It's a particularly special anvil...). So, it was a good deal.
So gearing aside (I'm extremely familiar with the advantages and disadvantages of this size tire, as I had 225/70/16s on the sunroof syncro), what's necessary to get these tires to fit this bus well with my ET45 Audi 200/5000 wheels? I have the wheels, and essentially got them for free (Sold the tires off them for more then I paid for the wheels), and i'm having the center bores machined for free by a friend, but I am not committed to these wheels. They fit over the G60 calipers by literally a hair, so a spacer may help with their fitment in the front, and since I assume their high offset will contact the trailing arm with these wide tires, would spacers (Say 10mm?) front and back solve some of these problems? Or should I go with different rims that are closer to ET30?
I am okay with modifying the trailing arms, heck, I think I plan on it regardless, but what else do I need to consider? I know plenty of syncro people run this size tire and I think i've seen them run without mods on Passat Steel rims, which I believe are also ET45, so, is it possible?
Thanks!
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry." |
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Birdcage
Samba Member
Joined: November 06, 2013
Posts: 203
Location: Collins of fort
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| Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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Good to see some progress, thanks for detailing the products your using. I also decided to run 235/75/15 on the gowesty alloys I have. Just ordered em so not sure if I'll run into any issues.
Keep it comin, |
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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Birdcage, interesting.
The information coming through on the facebook syncro page seems to indicate that the bulk of people running 235/75/15 tires are doing so on ET30 rims either corrected or not with spacers, and those running higher ET then that have rubbing issues on the trailing arms, though those with ET30s seem to have no fitment issues.
I'm contemplating searching for a set of ET30(ish) rims rather then the ones I have now, as spacers/longer studs, or adapters both equal a bunch of money, pretty much the same i'd spend on just buying a set of Mefro 15'' rims. However, it would appear that 15'' mefros are out of stock, : (
I would love to have a set of rims with these mud terrains that's a direct fit, so that I could easily just move them from bus to bus as needed.
Interestingly, Gowesty sells ET23 and ET40 rims, stating that the ET23 are bad for a syncro and that the ET40 is the right rim.... but the world seems to indicate that ET45 is totally wrong, so ET40 must be pretty far off still.
Weird.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry." |
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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sub-hatchtim
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2006
Posts: 2610
Location: Phoenix AZ
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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looks killer, what did that run you for
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58' pg/sg silo fridge westy
58 Dove blue singlecab
76 911S |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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mackaymanx
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 479
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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| With the fuel tank vent line spacers, I used marine grade Sikaflex sealant/adhesive to stick the whole assembly on. I couldn't get them off now if I tried. |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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luVWagn
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Joined: February 21, 2008
Posts: 1340
Location: Snoqualmie (WA)
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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A bit of progress to report, and a few setbacks.
First and foremost, I somehow managed to overlook my normal "thorough examination of the body" before starting on the bodywork to paint the bedliner, and put it off until now. I was hoping to spend the week doing the body work and painting it at the end of the week but apparently, the only thing I stupidly overlooked was the drivers and passengers foot wells.
Of course, They're gone. BOO!
I need to fix these before bed-lining, as I now include sealing up these holes and bed-lining the foot wells as part of the procedure Ala the "Gowesty Method". I did it this way on the last bus and was very happy with the results.
I ordered new metal from CIP1 and should be able to put it in next week and keep the ball rolling. I need to get the body work done before I can start waxing the underbody and building things back up, so I really need to get this done.
Every part is being coated and dealt with. In the case of the transmission mounts, I took this opportunity to tear them down to freshen up. Everything is labeled and will go back in EXACTLY the same place it came out of. The rubbers are in fine shape and will just be cleaned up and greased on the inside and mating surfaces. The washers were blasted and coated as well as the mounts. I cleaned them all to bare metal, sprayed them with a layer of Rustoleum Professional Cold Galvanizing compound (96% Zinc) followed by top coats of Rustoleum Professional Semi Gloss Black and a few coats of Eastwood Heavy Duty Antirust. DONE.
The Rustoleum products we use extensively on the DUKW restorations and they really rock at resisting rust.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry." |
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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This alternator was nasty with corosion, but worked fine and was tested good. So....
A bit of sanding, a few coats of aluminum primer, and a few coats of Rustoleum Professional Aluminum Paint, which is SPECTACULAR aluminum paint by the way, and this sucker won't corrode at all before it reaches the end of it's service life. I've got no reason to open the alternator, so it's "just" cosmetic... but it's really all about preventing corrosion.
Then it was back masked to expose the steel band, which was sanded down, treated with SEM Rust Mort, primed with UPOL Acid Etch Primer, and coated with a bit of Rustoleum Professional Semi Gloss Black paint.
DONE.
Corrosion averted.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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I got the new steps from CIP1 and can finally get back to body work. However, these new steps are super low quality, way worse then the last set I purchased from a different vendor. : /
I'm not impressed, but they'll do.
I plan to just cut and transplant the portion I need anyway, so i'll make it work.
I plan to weld up the holes so the plastic foot step doesn't go back in place. I don't like those and like to follow the "Gowesty" Lines for Bed-lining which ommit those holes and bed-line that area.
Here's how I did it on the last bus:
Has anyone else done this? What are your thoughts on drainage/lack of drainage?
Theoretically water could pool in the step, but at the same time....it can't get in through the bottom which is the real source of the problem.
So, I finally got around to the engine!
This engine ran well in Epaddler's (Lang) Syncro and was taken out just because he wanted a Subaru for his impending long journey through the northern territories. This engine then came into the hands of another local vanagon guy who wanted to rebuild it to use in his '85 someday, but there was nothing wrong with his '85 engine and quickly realized he was in over his head. He took it to a local machinist who said they'd done some VW engines before, and paid them to freshen it up before realizing they had no idea what they were doing. This is how it came to me. We don't know all of what they've done and I have some strong doubts. They did pull the heads and supposedly rebuilt them, I see evidence through the intake ports of what looks like new valve guides, so that's good, but how well did they do the whole head gasket thing....?
Hmmm...
They replaced the rear main seal with an Elring (?)seal from the kit, and I am thinking of replacing that with the slightly more proper SABO seal though I don't like doing things like that for no reason. It's a brand new seal...
I'm going to check the endplay first and if it's out of spec, I will assume they screwed things up and I'll pull the seal and fix them. I'm not thrilled about some of the mysteries.
For instance, they pulled and rebuilt the heads, but then put the intake on without replacing the runner seals or intake gaskets, taking the thermostat housing off, taking off most of the hoses, cleaning anything well, etc. Things were done, interestingly.
For instance, they did not replace the Oil Breather tower Oring though they did have the Oil Breather off....
So of course, the Oring crumbled when I pulled it off to check.
New seal, all good.
I rebuilt the entire intake assembly sand blasting and inspecting the runners for holes (common around here) and sealing things up well. Silicon hoses on the intake runners (what a great fit!), Loctite 518 on the intake gaskets (both sides, as they don't really compress and often don't seal well), and rebuilt injectors.
I had the injectors rebuilt from a company called "Injector Experts", who have very little web presence but really did an awesome job!
http://cleaninginjector.com/Injector_Experts_order_form.pdf
I talked to them and they had me send them 8 injectors that I had, they then flow tested all 8, determined 3 were in pretty bad shape, rebuilt the other 5, matched the best 4 with closest specs, put new seals on them, and only charged me for 4!
Basically, I had 5 injectors rebuilt and matched for something like $80. NICE!
All new J30R9 hoses and Oetiker clamps throughout.
The exhaust will be getting ARP studs, a frank condelli stainless steel exhaust, and a good used OEM VW muffler.
Things are coming together well!
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Progress has been made, but for every step forwards, a step or so back is sometimes taken.
I had an Wanted to Buy add for a set of Mefro 15'' wheels, since they are unavailable in the US right now but I know they will fit over my G60 brake package. I was planning to use the G60s on this bus because I already have a complete spare set, I have the same setup on the Red syncro allowing me to stock parts for easy fleet maintenance, and the Mefro 15'' wheels will then fit and work on the red bus If I choose to run the mud tires on the red bus sometime. Luckily, a samba member got ahold of me who said he had 5 15'' Mefro wheels and a deal was struck. It took a few weeks for them to be shipped out, and when I unwrapped the first wheel (So far i've only unwrapped one), I found that they aren't Mefros! CRAP.
They're SA 15'' steel wheels. They're used, and in fair condition for used wheels, but I paid the same price as I would have for 5 brand new 15'' SA Steel wheels (Which are available), if that were the wheels I wanted.... So that deal was not good. Luckily the seller was supper accommodating after realizing that he truly didn't know that they weren't Mefros, he was basing that on what his mechanic told him, and we came up with a fair settlement.
So now i've got these 15'' SA rims, which do not fit over G60 brakes (I tried on the Red Bus), and i'm not so sure what to do with them....
So, does anyone know if SA 15'' rims fit over the G54 setup Big Brake kits that are available? Does anyone know if SA Big Brakes are still available anywhere? Does anyone know if the Gowesty brake offering fits under these?
The real bummer of it all is that these wheels and tires wont be usable on both busses as intended. : /
I would love to sell them if anyone is interested, before I put tires on them. I really want 15'' Mefros. If anyone has a set they'd like to sell, please PM Me.
So with that funkyness settled out....
It was time for some body work.
I decided that the super low quality CIP1 sheet metal pieces had no place on my car, so I just built the pieces I needed. After all, I do have a complete blacksmith's shop at my disposal....
So....
This is some of the best sheet metal work i've done to date. It truly required no filler, just an extra coat of primer to get it level and perfect. NICE!
I went around the body cleaning the seams, grinding away any rust spots, and dealing with the body work the way i've learned works best for me.
I start by using a "Thin" 3'' grinding wheel on a harbor freight 3'' grinder to clean out the seams. By running the compressor at a lower then specified pressure (40psi) it turns slow and I have a ton of control. This quickly removes the old seam sealer back as far as any tool will allow, while grinding the sides of the seams to shiny clean metal (especially if any rust was present, this is important). Then I go through with UPOL Acid primer and prime the area, then use Lord Fusor 805HD Seam sealer squeezed and pressed into the seams. I then brush off the excess sealer and let it all dry. Once that's all sealed up, I address any other rust spots by grinding to shiny metal and acid priming then high build priming. Once all the body is prepped, I tape it off, clean it up, scuff the whole thing with red 3m pads, degrease, paper it off, and spray it with UPOL Raptor bedliner at 60psi.
This recipe works extremely well for me, completely encapsulating and sealing in the lower portions of the body effectively adding a strong layer of sealed protection from the elements exposure.
It takes me 12 hours just to do the seams, prep, taping/masking, and painting. It is an extremely involved process to do it right!
As such, I finished pulling the tape and paper off the wet bedliner as the sun went down and didn't get many good pictures, but snapped a few in the garage today. I tend to follow the Gowesty lines but on this bus decided to draw the bedliner up around the front lower radiator grill and really like the look. This will likely be my new recipe for future busses.
I did have to remove the "SHAKEDOWN STREET" Sticker off the front nose though, and in doing so it pulled up all the paint! : (
So.... Looks like i'll need to replace it with another sticker (After laying down some paint to seal things in well). I am not confident enough in my paint matching skills to properly blend that panel. : (
I may respray the whole nose though (Above the bedliner).
I'm hoping to get the gas tank area/driver side wheel well area finally finished off here soon so I can start spraying the Noxudol Wax products and reassembling!
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
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Phishman068
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Sat Nov 01, 2014 10:00 am Post subject: |
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I decided that there's no way around using the SA Rims, as i really can't get my money out of them, and really cant afford a different set just because of the brakes I have....so i've chosen to run them. The plan was to run the stock brakes for now, but Luckily I just sourced a complete set of SA front brakes which should fit the SA steel rims just fine. Finding a set of these rare brakes was not easy! You can get most of the parts, but not a whole set.
Anyway, that's done, so at least i'll have better then stock brakes and still be able to use my SA rims.
I took the opportunity to change the look of the rims a bit when freshening them up. They REALLY needed a new coat of paint, so I choose to go with Rustoleum Professional Series Flat Black. I like the look of flat black wheels and thought it may look pretty good. I'm not as in love with them as I could be, but they're definitely pretty sweet!
Flat black on Left, Original on Right
So I decided to put the mud tires on the rims and see how they fit. Sure enough, A great fit! Plenty of trailing arm clearance in the rear, not an issue. The front, they tell me will be an issue with the rear most corner of the body work but shouldn't be anything that cant be fixed with a hammer or a saw if need be. I sure wish Terrawagons made 16'' Syncro arches to cover up these modifications..... but oh well.
The bus looks AWESOME with these big wheels and tires. No lift yet, just a bit light.
_________________
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry." |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1869
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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| Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2014 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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After a bit of a hiatus due to a busy schedule, i'm making big progress on this syncro build!
Most of the body up to the front diff cross member has been ground down cleaned, and waxed properly.
I used Noxudol Products throughout and am very impressed by them so far!
Essentially, I scraped off all the old undercoating with a putty knife, scuffed everything with a red 3m pad, and degreased the whole thing. When I came across rusted bits, I ground them with a 60 gritt sanding disk not necessarily to bare metal but to the point where they were solid then degreased.
I then sprayed Noxudol 750 along anywhere where two panels met, any seams, and throughout the cavities using a wand extension. The 750 product is very similar to Fluid Film, it's a thin thixatropic oily wax which penetrates deep into cavities and acts as a primer for the next coat. For the next coat, I used Noxudol 900 cavity wax all throughout the gas tank area, tops of the spring towers, and the center section where the prop shaft goes. The 900 product never fully solidifies but encapsulates the entire area protecting the treated surfaces from any atmospheric conditions (AKA Salt spray). For the areas that will be receiving more direct spray and wear, Noxudol 1600 was used. 1600 is the same as 900 but with the addition of fibers which reinforce it and make it more durable. The side sections of the frame were treated with 1600, as will the wheel wells.
I heated each product in hot water for 15 minutes, stirring regularly before spraying and sprayed using an Eastwood cavity/undercoating gun with wands at 50psi. While the Eastwood gun works very well, I am infuriated by the fact that it uses only the proprietary plastic bottle it came with (Or will screw onto eastwood HD Anti rust cans) but will not screw onto the Noxudol containers. Additionally, the feed tube on this gun does not go all the way to the bottom of their supplied bottle! THIS IS CRAP! That means you can't really use the whole quart! Stupid.
Here's the frame areas prepped and ready to be treated.
Noxudol 750 sprayed on the seams:
I don't have any pictures yet of the finished, sprayed sections covered in 900/1600, but will share soon.
While that's curing, I've been working on the drive train.
Because vanagon exhausts are my greatest Enemy here in PA, I have taken all kinds of key steps to making this one work for a long time to come and feel like sharing them. First, I made sure to run an M8x1.25 tap through all the exhaust port holes in the heads. This engine was supposedly "Rebuilt" by a shop, and there is some evidence that they rebuilt the heads....but they definitely didn't do this! After running the tap I noticed it really cleaned up the threads quite a bit, so I'm glad to know this is dealt with properly.
With the holes dealt with, It's time for the hardware. In my experience the use of bolts in the exhaust often results in stripped heads and broken bolts and whenever possible, I like to avoid these. The "Front" header (Which goes below the transmission) can easily be installed with 4 studs rather then 2 studs and 2 bolts. The rear header however, is intended to have studs on one side and bolts on the other in part because there isn't quite enough access to push the exhaust header on straight over 4 studs, it will hit the mustache bar on the drivers side. I'm still debating whether or not to put studs here and thread them through with the header in place or to use bolts at just this location. We shall see.
I chose to use ARP M8x1.25 38mm studs. They are quite a bit more expensive then standard steel studs, but are going to last FOREVER. These studs were installed into the recently tapped holes with a liberal coating of anti-seize and go in easily thanks to the allen head on the studs.
I chose to use standard steel wavy washers to secure the nuts to the studs rather then their supplied stainless washers, which are too thick thanks to these nice thick exhaust flanges. I chose to use their supplied 12 point stainless nuts, as they will not corrode and will be easier to pull off in the future with their 12 point design. You get what you pay for, and these are EXTREMELY well made products.
I was going to go with the BMW Copper plated nuts (Not solid copper, that would be too soft, these are simply plated in copper) but really like the way these 12 point nuts look and feel.
The options for nuts:
I have found over the years that exhaust gaskets tend to blow out less if you treat the non metal side of the exhaust gasket with high temp Permetex Ultra Copper. Just a thin film.
Remember that the metal side of the gasket goes up against the head, and to torque the nuts to only 18ft/lbs!
Plenty of anti seize and the proper torque, these babies will come off when I need them to!
Now on to the transmission. A brand new LUK clutch system was installed with a resurfaced flywheel. A new LUK throw out bearing and I replaced the pilot bearing using just a wee bit of Redline CV2 grease. I used a new felt seal but left out the item listed in the bently as "Spacer", as I could not find one and have been assured these are often left out with no ill effects.
The transmission was bolted on and all the studs and bolts were torqued to proper specs and treated with plenty of Anti Seize.
I decided to replace the starter bushing while I was at it and good thing I did! The existing bearing had a crack in it and fell apart once i got it out.
I installed a locally rebuilt Bosche Syncro Starter motor, rebuilt by a great local builder known as "radar". It's got a brand new solenoid on it and had new brushes put in. Hopefully it lasts a long time!
More to come soon!
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559766&highlight=winter+rust
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482402&highlight=sunroof+syncro
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569774
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6864936#6864936
"Along with the ability to go fast, one looses the desire to hurry." |
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61Scout
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Joined: November 06, 2011
Posts: 1297
Location: Shoreline/Yakima WA
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
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Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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