stock horsepower compared to 1776-1835cc

[mrbigmax]

That's pretty good out of a small motor. 0 to 60 was about 7 seconds, to 80 in about 14 seconds. And he's shifting it at about 4,000 RPM. That combo ought to pull well to 5,000 RPM.

[theastronaut]

Link


1964 VW Bug, full weight.
1679cc
DPR counterweighted crank 69mm
Thick wall 88mm cylinders.
FK-41 cam on 112LC
.035 deck
9.6:1 CR
Dual 36mm Dellorto DRLA carbs, 30mm vents.
041 heads- no port work, single springs.
1.4 rockers.
Stock trans with 4.37 R&P
205/70-15 tires.
90 hp 115 tq

Any issues with reliability is from poor workmanship and cheap/inferior parts. Buy the best and put it together the RIGHT way (no guessing) and it'll live a long happy life. Dual carbs aren't a pain either, I've put over 50k miles on mine with dual 36 dells and it hasn't given me the first bit of trouble. They don't need re-syncing all the time unless you buy crap linkage or can't properly assemble and adjust good linkage.

_________________
Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exist and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough."
-Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls-Royce

'64 Beetle Sunroof OG Bahama Blue
'63 Beetle Vert
'66 Beetle
'88 Festiva L
'89 Festiva L
'64 Chevy C10
'66 Chevy C10

[drockhead]

The big expense in performance isn't necessarily in the machining, in fact, that price is rather static no matter how large of a bore you go too.

The majority cost of a high performance VW engine is (and will always be) in the intake and exhaust.

You can spend more in a good quality intake (heads and carburator) than the rest of the motor and it would not be a wasted expense.

[CaliTransVair818]

talked to my local parts dealer and we figured for what i want is a 1903 he also said to talk to low budget, chico, or brothers. im going to pretty much put the set up i have now on a 1903 block which is dual 40 kads which i might rebuild to 44. should i get a bigger headers is a 1903 bigger valves then 1641?

[66brm]

You can go big and be reliable, its just a matter of being conservative with certain aspects of your engine build. If you want it to last, stay fairly conservative on heads, cam, and compression ratio. Pay for good quality parts (yes they come at a premium sometimes) drive it like you want it to last, take care of the investment with regular servicing etc. and it will last, if you don't trust your mechanical skills then have a reputable shop build the engine for you, tell them what you are after, you driving style etc and they should be able to put a package together that will achieve your aim.
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Aust. RHD 66 Type 1
Aust. RHD 57 Type 1 Oval

[CaliTransVair818]

i have a 1641 with dual kads and i want to go bigger but i deliver pizza so i have to have it reliable i was thinking 1914 but i see a lot of negative emotions about em.....whats wrong with them and what about a 2024? i believe that would be the next bump up besides the 1904 and what about the 1904 better than 1914??

[johnnypan]

Got an ancient 1835 in a package deal,long block...the case cracked at #3..the heads are almost new and a like new w110 was in the case.Have an AS41 case that linebored at .040 over and the old boy who did the machining does fly cutting as well,so he's cutting it for 92mm. figure some A&A cheapo jugs and slugs, counterbalanced crank and I'll lash on a pair of old school italian weber ICT's I scored...some polyester pants and a mullet,mullholland the 67 and Im good to go...figure Im ahead of the curve...36/40hp speed is the big thing now,wont be long before old school 1600 speed is hot,and when it is, Ill be ready.

[dcdubs]

think of it in terms of building an efficient air pump. horse power and torque being a byproduct. carberation, heads, and exhaust wil be a huge factor in this adventure... do you want heaterboxes?

rough hp speculation without refering to technical data

1600 dp 53-60 hp
1776 dp 75-100ish hp
1835 dp 75-110ish hp
1915 dp 80-130ish hp

stroker- (larger than 69mm crank) 100hp on up (dual carbs/F.I.)

pick two...fast reliable or cheap

depends on your goals expectations and budget
i say if you have the cash to build a proper 1776 then might as well go 1915 little extra oomph and have your machinest turn down the barrels to fit a case cut for "1776" so you can run the bigger piston/barrels with less fear of #3 case damage from overboring dont set the compresiion too high so you can run the shit for fuel our government is providing us and rock out!
_________________
dcdubs/glcustoms
AllRightGarageDoorsNW.com

[rustfree1967bug]

You mean 90.5 mm pistons right?
_________________
'70 ghia
'69 ghia
'65 singlecab
'66 sunroof beetle
'74 bus
'67 so-42


IDA's...well... they talk dirty -MURZI

[bugninva]

if you can't afford to build the engine, then leave it alone....
_________________

[justing1234]

i want to build a 1776 for my 1972, but the cheapest kit i could find is $730.
after reading the thread, i noticed some people said that you only need a 110 cam, and larger pistons&cylinders.. is this true? if so, i'll just get those, and recondition everything else... so pretty much i'd have
dual kadron 40's
110 cam
92mm cylinders and pistons
and everything else stock.... besides tuned heads
would this work?

[bill may]

[pantone149]

If you've got a stock 1600 and bump its displacement to 1776 or 1835 there will be little horsepower increase, if any at all. The reason is that the stock carburetor and exhaust are too small to feed the extra displacement. To get real power out of the bigger motor you need more air and fuel going in and more stinky stuff going out. You'd need dual carbs plus headers to make it compete with a Honda (plus about 70 years of technical innovation).

[rubyparts]

stiltwalker39 said that the work shop didn`t machine the case because of the bigger case savers "what dose it mean???"
because i want to machine my case next week , my work shop is doing this job for the first time "that`s my country" he bored cases for me to a 90.5`s about 4 engines last year and they are all 1776 also the are the only ones that wear built in my country .

so i don`t want to miss my case "help me " with any information !!


Thank`s

[Zundfolge1432]

[oldmanmark]

whatever size you build put the money in the heads,get a dpr crank and get all the major rotateing parts balanced includeing rods and pistons. the search function is your source.

[bertha64]

[veedubfreak59]

What would you folks suggest for a weekend warrior 59 ragtop that will by no means be a daily driver. I want something fast that wont blow up on me when it gets beat on during the weekend. Seeing as the car is a field find, the original motor/transmission are going into a corner never to be touched. My dad keeps telling me to just go with a cammed 1641 and a progressive carb, but i want more. Money isn't really an issue as i plan to spend whatever is needed to get the car where i want it.

What's the biggest displacement/horsepower you can get out of a single progressive carb? I really don't want to deal with the hassle that comes with dual carbs, unless its easier to set up than it was 15 years ago.

[Cusser]

I just consulted with the mechanic who built my 1835 engine. Yes, that was me. I've run 1835cc since 1976, in Arizona, no overheating issues, no cracked cylinder heads, etc. I have plenty of added power, daily driver type use. I've made numerous trips across the desert

Mine has stock crankshaft, not counterweighted, and stock cam. Cylinder heads are dual-port, bored for the 92s, but overwise stock rebuilds. Carb is single Weber 40DCNF (hey, I said from the 1970s) on matching manifold from Claude's Buggies (now CB), quiet exhaust, 009 distributor (1976 version), stock rockers. I use oil pump 26mm with built-in filter, Maxi-2 from CB, and an external oil cooler forward of the shroud, because the engine I used to build it was originally a 1970 single port without doghouse, and I wanted to get rid of the stock oil cooler that was blocking cooling from #3 and #4 (that's what was done in the 1970s). Transmission is stock, never out or rebuilt (1971), the clutch pressure plate and disc are also stock.

_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[vincesco]