China Clipper's Official 1971 Super Beetle Project page!

[tzepesh]

Jimbo, when the contacts get oxidized, the resistance is increased, therefore, at the same voltage, current decreases. There is another issue with oxidized contacts: they get hotter due to the higher resistance.
See my calculation above. I forgot about the reverse lights. Maybe I underestimated a bit, but: to get 8A through the coil, at 14.2V, the coil resistance should be 1.775 Ohms. That is way too low, it would burn points fast. Resistance shall be larger than 3Ohms, this is what I took as a minimum. Also 1.5A for choke and solenoid seems too much. But I do not have the resistance of the choke.

I will make a diagram how I addressed the issue. in words: I removed the diagnostic port, but I kept the battery wire. In my case, I have a large splitter (original) under rear seat: one wire to battery, one to dashboard, one to alternator, one to diagnostic port. And those are all 6sqmm wires. I installed a generic automotive relay:
Pin 30: wire from battery
Pin 87: output to coil ("new" KL15)
Pin 86: original KL15, black wire (control coil)
Pin 85: GND

Then the "new" KL15 goes to a fuse box in the engine compartment, with blade type fuses.
This way, I have the thickest, shortest wire from battery to coil, with lowest resistance.

Oh, and now I re-read, and the brass bushing is for fuel line. I thought it was something electric, and this is what confused me.
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'74 1303S, L98B Viperngrun (extra glitter), German Look
'64 1200, Sea Blue, under restoration

[Chinaclipper]

Don't want to throw gas on a fire, but Bentley says the S1 fuses noted on the 1971 Super Beetle schematics are designated as 8 amp fuses.

Jimbo_VW, what am missing here?
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728089&highlight=

[VW_Jimbo]

[Chinaclipper]

I thought I'd give a little update.
I actually took lots of pictures but no one wants to look at pictures of flashing lights.. so no pictures.

I got the flashers' working, and the turn signals working, running lights working, signal indicator lights working, but I can't seem to get the headlights working unless I jump the relays completely and power the.....
(at this time lights went, AND my 12v power supply ALSO went. )

Argh!

So, I THINK either I have a bad relay or a bad headlight switch. In my trouble shooting mode, I seem to remember something like "if the turn signals work and the E-flashers work, it's NOT the relays"....
So, it must be the headlight switch, I'm thinking. Or? Hmmm.

I have running lights front and back, the speedo lights work (#58b) and K3 (turn signal indicator light) works.
I checked for power (#56) at the dimmer relay but there is nothing there.
(That's the farthest I got before the 12v power supply gave out. see above)

I looked it up- the PS specs at 7-10 amps output so I'm thinking I MAY have cooked it-I can't get it to give me anymore than about 0.135V now )

I DID NOT have a chance to check the light switch for power in from ignition at "X" terminal on the switch, but that's my next task.

If there is no power from the switch #56 terminal when I turn the lights on with the key "on", then it MUST be the A) light switch, or maybe a B) bad ignition switch right? If there is NO POWER at the X terminal, would that mean either a bad connection at the connector OR maybe a bad ignition switch???
No power in at "X", no power out at #56, right?

BTW, I do have the 5 point headlight relay and yes, I have the #30 terminal red wire in place to the fuse board. there is power there at the relay.

I bought a group 42 battery and now just waiting for my terminals and crimper to get in so i can install the battery and continue troubleshooting.
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728089&highlight=

[VW_Jimbo]

Jumper the wiring in place of the dimmer relay. That will let you know if the headlights work. You can test for the power feed for the coil portion of the relay and the associated ground from the switch by measuring voltage available at the terminals.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[ashman40]

[Chinaclipper]

First of all, Happy New Year to all and a big thanks to all who have helped out guys like me on the board this last year.
I have been trying to get my electrical work completed but it just seems like there are so many steps.

Before I did any troubleshooting on my switch, I need to get my battery connected and working, so that is what I have been doing these last few days.
I selected a group 42 battery, and have my positive cable to the starter worked up and installed. I also made a tail out of 10 gauge wire that will connect directly from the battery to the B+ terminal on my OEM VR.

I have also elected to protect the circuit from the VR to the #9 fuse in the box with a 60 amp breaker. This is a MAJOR supply of power to the box.
There is a small length of #10 gauge wire from the 60 amp breaker to the B+ on the VR, and the other connects to the main harness.
This should protect the large wire that travels in the harness from the back to the box at #9.

Looking at the picture, I may chose to put in a longer wire from the VR to the breaker so I can have it lay on the floor and not suspended where it could be broken or shorted.
Next I will install a temp negative ground cable until I get my "official" ground strap and start troubleshooting things.
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[Chinaclipper]

I got power. I made a longer run of wire from breaker to B+. My AR I guess....

Flashers work beautifully. Check
I went to the light switch. I have running lights. Check
Signal lights WERE working, but after all the testing and moving grounds etc, now they aren't.... Hmm....cripes what did I do? (muttering under his breath)

NO power at the "X" terminal exiting from the ignition switch, key in "ON" position. None. There are issues here.....
Obviously power to the "30" terminal. I have headlights when I jumper the "30" terminal to the "56" terminal on the light switch. My meter reads 11.92v

I checked my signal switches, there is a definite issue with the contacts. I also notice there is a horn issue as well. Somewhere there is a mix-up in the ground wires. I will need to redo the gap between the wheel and the column, and also figure out which ground to use.
When I tested continuity between ground and the brown wire with the white stripe on my signal switch, I get continuity so I THINK that is the right one for the headlight/dimmer relay connected to "S"
I THINK the white wire on the new signal switch is the ground wire for horn, according the handout I got with the switch.

Questions/statements:
1) I am assuming the electrical portion of my ignition switch is faulty.
2) Are my readings normal? I feel 11.92v is a bit low
2) Is there a way to test the signal switch in situ? (in the car)
3) From where does the signal switch get its power??
4) Is there procedure for cleaning/lubricating the mechanical portion of the switch? Mine seems a bit wonky. I mean, its only 50+ years old....

I have disconnected my ignition switch and turn signal switch. I have the 2 bundles of wires under my dash.
Standing by......
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728089&highlight=

[VW_Jimbo]

[Chinaclipper]

Well, there ya have it...
Firstly, thanks again VW_Jimbo, I can always count on ya.

Secondly, my troubles have now zeroed on one issue-yup, a busted ignition switch.

You VW veterans out there knew it was coming didn't ya?

Yes, with as much care as I could muster, I removed the steering wheel and popped off the screw caps on the screws that hold the little key cover thingee. (Yes, it still had the original OEM black screw cap covers on the screws-saved 'em!) The electrical end of the switch literally fell apart. Busted springs everywhere, little discs of copper, old grease-it was ugly. No WAY am I gonna rebuild that switch. At least the electrical part of it. BTW, what do you use to lube the mechanical portion of the lock? The part the key fits in.

Off to WW and pick up some parts. BTW, this is what KILLS me, this darn nickle and diming of the littlest parts-and oh, each time "cha-ching!" ring up that darn $10 charge for packing and shipping.

Oh well, I guess it is what I get for tryin' to save this thing, which was 1/2 way out of the wrecking yard when I got it.

What else can I do? I could work on the paint I guess. Maybe it's the time to smooth and buff out....

I can't put in the headliner and interior-too cold! The material is too stiff when it's cold like this. Maybe I'll try and get the engine back in. I am almost done with the electrical,(unless it has anything to do with the signal flashers or the ignition anyway..
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728089&highlight=

[VW_Jimbo]

[Buggeee]

The world of this project keeps getting smaller and smaller. Every little thing you do inches progress forward. The bubble will collapse in on itself one day with a rush and you will stand there in amazement. And then you will polish the windows with a huge smile. Hahahaha. Enjoy!
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[Chinaclipper]

Well, maybe you've heard.
Yeah, It's COLD in the midwest these days.
Too cold to be in my garage to really do much of anything, which is saddening. More later.....

I've got to the part where I have replaced my ignition switch, cleaned/lubbed the key part, and now I just have to start troubleshooting again, see if the new switch is getting power to my light switch. I have been looking at the schematics so much I think I have them practically memorized.

About that cold.
Two car garage, non insulated. No insulated door either. Gets about 20° F when its 0°F outside.
I am looking at one of those small, 240v 5000 watt electric ceiling mounted heaters.
I don't need a $1200 King heater, but probably more around $200 range.

I have a 240v outlet installed, with a double 120v 20 amp breaker that serves that. I use it for the air compressor, or the welder. (not at the same time tho!)
The outlet is about 6 feet from where I would hang the heater.

Can I just get a good cord and plug it in, or do I need to have it hard wired?
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[viiking]

[tzepesh]

5kW is very high for a regular plug. I would hard wire it to the fuse panel. But as Viiking mentioned, fuse my trip. In my part of the world, used engine oil stoves are used in garages. Pretty simple to build one, by the youtube movies. Not sure about any environmental regulations...
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'74 1303S, L98B Viperngrun (extra glitter), German Look
'64 1200, Sea Blue, under restoration

[Chinaclipper]

Thanks all for the comments.
I DID speak to a electrician friend who said the same thing-5KW is too much for a 20 amp breaker.
He recommended I look for a smaller heater, so bada bing.

Found one.
A 4000 W heater, 240 volt AND it has a NEMA 6-20P plug that fits nicely into my existing receptacle I have for the welder and air compressor.
It's a Cadet model CGWH4031G for those who are keeping score. Got for $200 at Lowes.
I will ceiling mount it, and use it to heat the ol' garage!
No more kerosene heaters......
So hopefully I'll get 'er in tomorrow, and maybe actually be able to do something in the garage again.
Fingers crossed
.....
_________________
China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728089&highlight=

[Chinaclipper]

Good news for me. I bought and installed my heater.

Not the most expensive, but i was limited by my power supply: It is a 20 amp 240 V so I had to keep it around 4K watts.
Anyway, there ya have it.

Performance is still to be finally determined. I was out today in the garage and it was a nice 51° F, outside it was 15 °F. I'll take that.....My cost is about $0.1025/kilowatt hour. So if I am figuring right, it costs me about $0.41 per hour. $ x 0.10/ hour) Figure about 6 hours, maybe 8 a day, I'm using about $2.40 to $3.20 a day to heat the garage when I am out there. I have a nice heavy duty 240V timer coming, so I can allow the heater to be cycled on/off as I need it. I don't need a 51° F temp if I'm not in it. Win for me.


But back to the bug.
I was able to finally get things going with the wiring harness again-good stuff

I have lights! The new ignition switch was clearly the solution-good strong headlights and good high beam relay. All the blinkers are working, the E-flashers are as well.

A couple of issues-I think I will post a separate thread but here's the issues.

1) I don't have a consistent "blue high beam" light. Isn't it a direct (+12v) feed from the fuse box/high beam when the relay is activated? Maybe a bad or weak ground on the speedometer?
2) Sigh- I can't seem to get my horn AND high beam relay working independently. When I pull the turn signal to activate the high beam, the horn honks! If I pull the steering wheel away from the copper backing plate, the relay works, but I loose my horn. I think it has something to do with the gap between the steering wheel and the base (ignition key/steering wheel housing), but I can't get the base to slide any further.

Looking at the picture, you see it looks like I have some room to slide the base forward, but darned if I can't get the thing to move at all. What am I doing wrong? I tried pushing on the rim of the ignition key/steering wheel housing (?), tapping on the surrounding metal to get it to slide forward, no joy. Also, am I missing some parts? I haven't installed anything else. I just plop the steering wheel on the shaft to test it. I don't have the horn ring on obviously, or that slip ring..What the heck is a slip ring?? (#4) I haven't installed the brass contact and the three screws and the insulating things......

3) The key buzzer is not completely good. When I have the key in, and the door shut, no buzzer. But when I open the door with the key in, buzzer. All good. But it also now is buzzing when I take the key out of the lock and the door is open.
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China Clippers Official 1971 Super Beetle Project!
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[Jhp212]

I had the same exact problem with the high beam sounding the horn. There’s a 6 mm Allen bolt under the plastic housing that moves it closer/further. For me the gap must have changed a little when I removed the steering box as I did not mess around with removing column. Moved it to 2-4 mm and that did the trick. Of course my Allen bolt must have gone into a stripped captive nut (can’t tell what else would be in there) as it was just spinning so I had to get a longer bolt and slip a nut in that tight space and that worked. Nothing is ever easy! Also check that those contacts aren’t too flattened and clean them. Maybe you’re not getting good contact?
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1971 Super Beetle

[Jhp212]

Not sure about that slip ring but I think it looks like it fits inside the steering wheel which has the brass contact? I believe it’s attached but I assume must be removable. I didn’t notice that and it did not affect me taking off and putting on the steering wheel. You will need to have contact ring, horn ring and screws/insulators to test horn once steering wheel is on. Horn contact ring needs the cup side facing in towards horn ring. You know the horn itself obviously works as the bright switch sounds it. I think you are close. By the way hook the horn up to a test light unless you want to drive anyone in the house crazy testing the horn.
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1971 Super Beetle

[Chinaclipper]