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Erik G Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:28 pm

EasternNotch wrote: Erik G wrote: EasternNotch wrote: Erik G wrote: Been dodging rain and Flooding

Yesterday, installed my "full circle" horn ring. what a pain in the arse, every hole had to be enlarged, the post for the horn wire had to be filed down. Nothing horrible, just not as straightforward as it should be (nothing non-stock ever is, right?)

that's odd mine was simple to install no mods necessary.

really? Where did you get yours from? the plastic screw bushings didn't fit, the horn wire screw was fine but the back side wouldn't fit the contact ring and even then, I had to open up the holes on the contact ring in order to line up with the holes on the actual horn ring. The button was also a very tight fit


I got mine from someone on here- its aftermarket for sure- does shave a vw part number but no vw symbol like the originals had. Mine didn't come with the plastic bushings or the horn wire screw or tab so I just used the ones from my stock horn bar which was NOS when I got it.

Yeah, it comes without all that so I re-used my stock original ones

I'm guessing someone had already fitted it and did the work for you. Like I said, it's no biggie but just goes to show nothing fits like stock

Air-Cooled Head Mon Jun 15, 2015 9:02 am

Air up my leaky front tires and went for about an 8 mile shake-down.
That's as far as this car has been driven since about 2010.

There's a rattle at real low RPMs, and the engine was a little warmer than I expected when I got back.

Overall, YEA! :D

sjbartnik Tue Jun 16, 2015 9:47 am





:D

EasternNotch Tue Jun 16, 2015 11:47 am

sjbartnik wrote:



:D


Nice!

so how did you end up powering it? off the coil

psychopork Tue Jun 16, 2015 7:34 pm

I tore down the new to me AS21 long block. I found out the heads are 2 different numbers. One is 155 and the other is 69. (pictures in gallery) I also spotted the numbers there and it seems to be stamped A?006622.

I know this is probably a type 1 case but it is the best I can find in my price range. I plan to freshen it up and piece the tins together for a type 3 style cooling.
Proceed with the flogging.

Mexicant Tue Jun 23, 2015 9:11 pm

Tinted the windows 8)


chaosisme Tue Jun 23, 2015 10:10 pm

Installed my (formerly) NOS AAR today. Car starts and idles much better now.

Da TOW'D Thu Jul 02, 2015 1:05 pm

Finally some shop and air time on the hoist.

I drained the Black engine oil and see that the transaxle is covered in baked on dirt and oil. I pulled the plugs out of the bottom of the transaxle a little fuzzy stuff on the magnets but the 90w looks clean but low.

I'm going to add fresh oil and adjust the valves
Both axle boots are long gone. I'll order some new ones.

The right front brake was seized. So I pulled the double nuts and outer wheel bearing . The wheel and drum came off with the help of a old chain saw bar that I plasma cut some holes to mount on the drum using longer thread lug bolts and with a BFH's help and lots of rocking up and down.
I sanded the rusty drum and cleaned the shoes and put it back together, it spins nice.The shoes are riveted style. I'll be going through the complete brake system later.

first time view of the bottom and all in all it looks good even the battery area shows no holes. I did notice the bleeder location on the rear wheels.
the Left Bleeder looks like it should


The Right Bleeder - must be the wrong cylinder or can it be flipped to have the bleeder on the top?


I'll replace all the fuel and vacuum hoses and take the carb apart for a cleaning when I get the carb kit.

having fun
cheers
Hank

Da TOW'D Thu Jul 02, 2015 4:16 pm

1962 1500 Notchback
Fresh oil in and turning the generator nut with a 13/16" open end and aligned the notch and rotor for #1 and down through the hole in the cooling tin to the first of the 3 marks on fan.
I popped off both valve covers and was amazed on how clean the inside was after sitting so long
.
.008 feeler fit too loose so I tighten.
I adjusted both #1 cylinder valves and intake on #2 and exhaust on #4

Then turning the generator nut again 180* but I could not get past #4 cyl. spot on distributer
I turned the gen nut CCW to try to sneak up on #3 cyl from the other way.

No luck maybe a valve stuck down or something is in either # 2 or #4 cylinder
so my dream of starting it up after a long rest won't happen. I'll get a friend to turn the engine while I look at the valve action.

Looks like I'll pull the engine at least it rolls now.
cheers
Hank

Bobnotch Thu Jul 02, 2015 9:09 pm

Shot some paint and clear on my roof. It doesn't look bad, but I plan on wet sanding it, and shooting another coat on it. Pics to folow in the next day or so in my "not a thread" thread.:wink:

t3kg Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:27 am

Took the Ghia for a spin this morning. Approaching 800 miles since the rebuild and it's broken in and running very well. Since it's an early '62 the crankcase breather has no oil deflector and no connection to the air cleaner, so it wants to blow a little oil out of the breather tube. I think I'll try fitting one of those rubber valves on the end of the tube to see if it helps stop the few drips I get when it's parked. Pretty sure that's exactly what the rubber valve was designed for. Other than that and a minor pushrod tube leak all is good.

Da TOW'D Fri Jul 03, 2015 2:45 pm

I took an hour and dropped the engine out. The sun was so hot I shut my garage doors .
The hoist and my rolling metal work table, made that job fun
I sprayed lots of "P" oil on every bolt and nuts and screws that have to come off to get into the heads to see what the stoppage is.
The flywheel teeth have some wear. The heat riser on the exhaust is pinched off. good end play though.



I haven't had this much fun with my pants on for a long time
cheers
Hank

squaretobehip Fri Jul 03, 2015 7:44 pm

I bought a couple tires. I should probably buy the rest.


ataraxia Sat Jul 04, 2015 7:00 pm

I dropped the front end 1 inner spine (1.5") and destroyed an outer right tie rod end in the process.

Before:


After:


Now I just need to get around to hooking up the brakes and I can drive it.

t3kg Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:36 am

Looks good Josh. What disk brakes are you using?

edit: Never mind, I just found all the details on your blog...

ataraxia Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:42 am

t3kg wrote: Looks good Josh. What disk brakes are you using?

edit: Never mind, I just found all the details on your blog...

....yeah. It's safe to say that I've had some *moments* of frustration with them. :roll:

t3kg Sun Jul 05, 2015 10:55 am

So I take it if you were to do it again you'd go with a disk kit from another source?

ataraxia Sun Jul 05, 2015 11:39 am

t3kg wrote: So I take it if you were to do it again you'd go with a disk kit from another source?

Definitely.

BSQUARE Sun Jul 05, 2015 12:22 pm

Mexicant wrote: Tinted the windows 8)



The tint is probably too dark, if you're driving it off the road like that. :P

J/K - It looks good, and probably helps keep the interior cool in the summer.

Bobnotch Sun Jul 05, 2015 8:53 pm

ataraxia wrote: I dropped the front end 1 inner spine (1.5") and destroyed an outer right tie rod end in the process.

Before:


After:


Now I just need to get around to hooking up the brakes and I can drive it.

With all of the frustrations with the disc kit, I'm sure you already test fitted a hub cap, to make sure it clears the lug studs right? You also removed the paint from the lug nut seat on the rim too? Just asking, as I'd hate to hear about you loosing a tire somewhere.

After reading what you went thru, I'm actually glad I went with the SoCal bug kit, and modified a set of disc spindles for my T-34. Using Chris's spacer made aligning everything a lot easier. The single piston Rabbit calipers worked great on it too. 8) The only drawback to the SoCal kit was that it uses 12mm lug bolts (stock VW lug bolts), and I have a coffee can of 14mm ones. :roll:



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