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Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:52 pm

notchboy wrote: Tram wrote: notchboy wrote: Tram wrote: notchboy wrote: Wow did I ever time my PM :roll:

Looks to be one that would make you want to sleep for a week. Very interesting to see all that stuff from different times married together.

Let me come up for air after tomorrow and I'll get caught up on PMs and stuff. Glad to see you popping in over here from Bay Pride Town once in awhile. :D

My Baydar was acting up - and look who I found on it.

Nice try, but it looks like you came to me, BayBoy. Baydar, schmaydar.

I know thats what Im saying. And where better to land then at the father of my bayness :lol:

Now that you've come over, being injected really isn't really all that bad, is it? :)

Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:39 pm

Get a room you two. :roll:

Looking forward to seeing this notch at the rally this weekend. I love builds like this. How about a '73 Type 34 next? 8)

Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:02 pm

Odd you should mention that.

Dr Tramenstein. Your next victim ... I mean project ... is in waiting room two.

Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:36 pm

I've seen that alternator before.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:58 am

What a car! And what a job!

I'm intrigued by the remote jumper terminals. I thought VW said not to jump FI cars to avoid damage to the ECU? Or did you build in surge protection?

Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:55 am

Donnie strickland wrote: What a car! And what a job!

I'm intrigued by the remote jumper terminals. I thought VW said not to jump FI cars to avoid damage to the ECU? Or did you build in surge protection?

I wont say that its impossible and that the fuel injection/jumpstart warning is an old wives tale.....but being that I have jump started D-jet cars literally.....probably a hundred times with never an issue.....
I can only assume that it was a warning to keep total morons from trying to jump start fuel injected cars to avoid these three basic problems that can or will in fact screw up the system.

1. Reversed polarity cables.....yeah far too many people just can't seem to get the old +/- thing right....much less black and red.

2. Trying to jump start from a system with the wrong voltage...which can happen in the case of large truck rigs....if you come off of series hotel power instead of engine power (36 volts or more), or from a system that has far too much amperage feeding a massive battery...again..read large trucks and wreckers.

3. Improper connection of cables with high amp draw and poor ground.... I.e. connecting the red cable to battery and putting the black one somewhere on the chassis far away with a possible poor ground linkage in between.
The proper way is to charge the battery with whatever you are jumping with and then disconnect one cable before starting.
Ray

Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:04 am

raygreenwood wrote: Donnie strickland wrote: What a car! And what a job!

I'm intrigued by the remote jumper terminals. I thought VW said not to jump FI cars to avoid damage to the ECU? Or did you build in surge protection?

I wont say that its impossible ane that the fuel injection/jumpstart warning is an old wives tale.....but being that I have jump started D-jet cars literally.....probably a hundred times withcnever an issue.....
I can only assume that it was a warning to keep total morons from trying to jump start fuel injected cars to avoid these three basic problems that can or will in fact screw up the system.

1. Reversed polarity cables.....yeah far too many people just cant seem to get the old +/- thing right....much less black and red.

2. Trying to jump start from a system with the wrong voltage...which can happen in the case of large truck rigs....if you come off of series hotel power instead of engine power (36 volts or more), or from a system that has far too much amperage feeding a massive battery...again..read large trucks and wreckers.

3. Improper connection of cables with high amp draw and poor ground.... I.e. connecting the red cable to battery and putting the black one somewhere on the chassis far away with a possible poor ground linkage in hetween.
The proper way is to charge the battery with whatever you are jumping with and then disconnect one cable before starting.
Ray

Bingo.

The owner just wanted the convenience of not having to rip out the back seat and futz down there in the dark to do what needs to be done if it needs to be done.

Plus, I'll admit that having this set up like this is really handy for diagnostic equipment, timing lights, and electrical testing.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:05 am

Rick Christensen wrote: Odd you should mention that.

Dr Tramenstein. Your next victim ... I mean project ... is in waiting room two.

We'll talk about that when I see you in a bit! Now that I can pretend to know sort of what I am doing, the next one should be easier.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:51 am

I have always wanted to install a set of remote battery jumper points. I could just never figure out where to put them on my type 4.

I guess in the front trunk or inside of the rear engine compartment like this car...would be fine.

I have seen some other cars with remote jumper points mounted on the underside of the bumper. My fear was that if you got hit by another car and the two points got crushed together...what might start as an ugly fender bender could then become a fire.
Ray

Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:53 am

Rick Christensen wrote: Odd you should mention that.

Dr Tramenstein. Your next victim ... I mean project ... is in waiting room two.

[-X

My last ties to any T3 car is rotting away in his yard. The girlfriend wants me to get Tram going - so Ill be pestering him a lot more over the holidays :wink:

I vaguely remember him telling me of the difficulties in making this frank-en notch. Having all these parts come together in good usable condition, then assembly. Fun stuff!

Id sure love to cruze the Cascade Alps this Spring in a convertible :lol:

Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:09 am

raygreenwood wrote: I have always wanted to install a set of remote battery jumper points. I could just never figure out where to put them on my type 4.

I guess in the front trunk or inside of the rear engine compartment like this car...would be fine.

I have seen some other cars with remote jumper points mounted on the underside of the bumper. My fear was that if you got hit by another car and the two points got crushed together...what might start as an ugly fender bender could then become a fire.
Ray

Putting a heavy duty fusible link or circuit breaker in there should solve that.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:45 am

I thought of adding a plug to the rear footwell for this. It's metal an a T3, unlike the Big, so it would be sturdy.
I haven't found the right connector pair, though.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:53 am

KTPhil wrote: I thought of adding a plug to the rear footwell for this. It's metal an a T3, unlike the Big, so it would be sturdy.
I haven't found the right connector pair, though.

For the record, these are what I used. Very nice heavy- duty, over- engineered stuff.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/21504/10002/-1?CA...fgodKAwAPw

Wed Oct 01, 2014 11:56 am

how much of the "stock" air conditioning stuff did you use? pulley, bolt, AC brackets? How many holes did you have to drill for the install? How did you seal the fan housing with the extra belt, or is it really not that critical?

Wed Oct 01, 2014 12:26 pm

Erik G wrote: how much of the "stock" air conditioning stuff did you use? pulley, bolt, AC brackets? How many holes did you have to drill for the install? How did you seal the fan housing with the extra belt, or is it really not that critical?

Stock A/C pulley, compressor, brackets, and under dash unit. Replaced the expansion valve and the receiver/ dryer is built into the condenser. Lines were built in- house.

I deviated from the installation instructions that tell you to cut slots in the outer fan housing from the holes to the boot edge to slide the A/C belt on. I feel this weakens the area that the boot clamps to too much. What I did was to drill the two holes for the belt and then cut parallel between them. Then I designed a cover plate that screws onto the fan housing to cover the slot.

As to whether the extra holes are really "that critical" or not, VW seals everything off and tells you to keep it that way on one hand. On the other hand, VW approved these A/C setups as official dealer installed accessories, so the signals are really mixed there.

The oil temperatures that the temp gauge shows tell me that it's likely not that critical.

Wed Oct 01, 2014 12:42 pm

thats what I had figured, and ditto on the slots all the way to the boot. pics would be great when you get a chance

And stock compressor, not a new low drag one? I think I have access to all of this stuff, except the later underdash from a 69. Not as cool as the one you used

Wed Oct 01, 2014 12:51 pm

Erik G wrote: thats what I had figured, and ditto on the slots all the way to the boot. pics would be great when you get a chance

And stock compressor, not a new low drag one? I think I have access to all of this stuff, except the later underdash from a 69. Not as cool as the one you used

I actually like the York compressors. The key is feeding them enough oil and the new synthetic stuff is great.

I don't know if there is a Sanden compressor made that is small enough to fit under the Type 3 deck lid.

With the install, photo-ing it is problematic. Because it's in an early car, the body stamping for the ex- rear "mount" is right in the way, and everything is black on that part of the fan housing, so it just doesn't show up!

Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:43 pm

Are you ready for me to bring my car over now?

Wed Oct 01, 2014 2:09 pm

notchback wrote: Are you ready for me to bring my car over now?

I was ready a few years back!! :lol:

Let's talk seriously about this come spring. I have a very major 230SL project and a bunch of other big stuff still in the queue, plus I guess Bayboy is finally getting motivated to grease my palm on the long dormant 34 Cabrio project. I had planned to tool along on that alongside everything else anyways, but unfortunately I've needed to focus on jobs that pay the bills (having health issues in America ain't cheap- even with insurance!!) rather than "fun" stuff- and that includes my own projects that I have moved to the back of the line behind you and Jason even.

Nothing is going to be "fast" here as I still have a lot of catch up and I'm still not even really 75% after prostate surgery yet. What I have learned, though, is that everybody has a complaint... and if the complaint is "you took too long" and that only, I am resignedly happy with that.

I'm just not the firebrand invincible maniac that I was five, six years ago. I have to keep things reasonable for the slight handicaps I need to work with now. If I re-injure the old back thing again I will have no choice but fusion, which can't possibly be all that great of a thing given all the up, down, and fetal positions under dashes that i need to assume to do what I need to do.

The Disciple is a great help, and we've worked together so long off and on over the last decade plus that he instinctively understands how I want things done- and that is extremely valuable. He's really stepped up and saved my ass here through all my adventures involving cutting of flesh the last few years. But he's a "freelancer" who basically does his own mechanical biz thing involving junk that I'm too snooty to touch- American, Japanese, Korean, late model voodoo shit- and also a LPN (which is why I refer to him as "Nurse Ratchet" at times) so there are real limitations there too.

It is what it is. This is, after all, why God invented booze and narcotics. :D

Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:40 pm

Hey I resemble that nurse ratchet you speak of! As you all can see my projects are slow as well. This car was great for me as I did a 65 notch 20 years ago only to sell it at 80% done, and a sunroof notch 3 years ago.. I need to focus myself and complete my own stuff along with my other duties... Wife and teen age kids! Man time flys then were still thinking were young?