retorque the head or not?

[nachche]

Hello all,
After a complete overhaul for my 1300 engine (1973 beetle) I just finished 300 miles and I planned to retorque the head but than I realized you should take the engine out for that task.. I read the Van Ness article about his first time 1600 engine rebuild that he did and that at the end he skipped the retorque he planned to do after a few hundreds miles.. (http://type2.com/rvanness/1600saga.htm)
so I'm wondering if I should do it (as far as I remember the other books I read talking about doing it (Jhon Muir and Tom Wilson)
I'm planning anyway to replace the oil, replace the oil filter, adjust the valves.
looking for advise

thank you.

[pandanom]

I had my heads replaced on my '70 bug with an AE engine. The VW mechanic told me to retorque them, just the ones under the rockers, at 500 miles. He did not tell me I had to remove the rocker arm assemblies but it was obvious so I did. One head, the left, was OK and did not take any additional torque but the right side took quite a bit.
Be careful reassembling the rockers and push rods. There is no need to remove the engine to retorque what I have described. After you finish torquing with a calibrated torque wrench, reset your valve clearances. Might want to check them before and after so you will have something to compare to. If the nuts turn some from torquing then the valve clearance will change anyway.

Good Luck,
Jim
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It is never too late to have a happy childhood!

[Failer]

Either drop the engine and torque all the studs correctly or don't do it all and don't worry about it. Do not torque half of them and think you've done it correctly.

[roymann]

I agree.
Retorquing only half the bolts could create more problems than it would solve.
If memory serves me correctly ( and sometimes it don't) I didn't have to drop the engine out to retorque my heads. Did have to remove the upper engine tin however.
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73 Bug deVille
77 Vert - Under Destruction

Lookie here - http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/305639.jpg

[vicsvw]

VW recommended retorquing the heads but about 75 to 80% of the time you can get by without retorquing them. So a lot of shops waite and see. And yes retorque all or none. We retorque all non stock motors especially any running high compression. Head Torquing info & Picture <> http://www.1800vw.bizhosting.com/headtorque.htm

[Old n' slow]

I pulled the engine and found one head stud lost maybe 3-4 lbs. torque. I torqued it to 22lbs......now I wonder should I have backed them all out to 7lbs. following the removal sequence.....and then start all over to 22lbs.

What's the consensus ?????
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Currently own : 1969 Beetle w/ 1600cc, Single Port, Solex 30 PICT 2, Dist. 113 905 205 T, stock exhaust.
All my daily drivers gone but not forgotten;

1964(sunroof)1967 & (2)1968 Beetles , 1968 Squareback , 1963 (23 window )Deluxe Sunroof Bus , 1969 Westphalia camper, 1974 Dasher , 1985 Vanagon , (2) 1981 Rabbit Diesels & a 1991 Jetta Diesel .

[Mr.Duncan]

[Old n' slow]

[borninabus]

you're fine.
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88 Van WBX, A/T - 93 Multivan 5cyl 5M/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[Cusser]

Brand new cars - manufacturers do not bring in to re-torque.

However, when I rebuilt my '88 B2200 engine, I did re-torque at about 600 miles.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[rockerarm]

Hi. Cant compare any new car maintenance procedure with the air-cooled design of over 30 years. But, dealers used to retorque water cooled engines prior to the stretch bolt technology.
As far as our air-cooled engine goes, it is a case by case decision. Expensive engines I'm sure get checked. Stock, conservative, engines probably not, if quality parts are utilized. I know guys who used to retorque those cheapo 8mm aftermarket studs because of suspicions of low quality.
Bill.

[HRVW]

Torque on the heads is done crisscross whether it be a VW ,straight 6 or V8 engine...no difference as to sequel. Start on the inside and work outwards.

As stated, VW never had any new cars sold return for a head re-torque....same goes for any engine rebuild or repair.

[mark tucker]

with copper head gadgets Ive found the lower studs get loose the upper ones dont seem to:shock: well less than 2 pounds.Ive had lowers loose much more and leek compression.I presure from the valve spring pressures and the pushrods pushing trying to push the head off from the bottom side only. I dont know if it's studs setteling in form the "pounding"& spring pressures or just what it is. there also longer so they will streach more when they get hot from running and the added spring pressure.but Ive checked them and only the lowers needed retorquing.so....I make it a habbit to retorque/check it after a few heat cycles. once retorqued they stay. never had any issues with top studs. remember there is sealer/locktight/ goose greessee whatever on the threads and under the washers&nuts too so thats4 places that can get the stuff wiggled around or out and the tops dont see that extra pressure.

without head gadgets I havent a clue as I will not build one without gadgets.

[rockerarm]

[mark tucker]

ive not seen any dealer service dept that was competitive.and not many that were good at what they were trying to do either(other than the billing)