Canadian 1967 11 window restoration.

flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 5:33 pm Post subject:

Well, I am still sanding.

I was curious and began searching the paint and body section of the samba, looking for tips as to how to do the best job I can. I was finding it tough to see how well i was sanding it, not the best lighting and all that.

then I found this
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6231288#6231288
The notes on the use of the 3M guide coat and Block shaping, it just happened to be the block set I had too.

Anyways, that stuff is a huge time saver and it helps me see how much to sand. Very cool.

Gordo.

flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:40 am Post subject:

My home's carport is not the easiest space to work in, but the weather is nice now so I'd better not complain. The dolly set up helps lots.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Gordo.

flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 5:43 pm Post subject:

Well I am ready for another coat of primer and to begin sanding it all over again. But for it gets primed I wanted to get all the last bits of welding and fabbing done. The middle seat anchor holes on the replacement floor do not line up with the seat legs (would be fine if it was a full seat, I have a 2/3 seat). So even the flat spots for the anchors are in the wrong place.

I have the anchors but they will not mount with out a flat to sit in. I want to make my own flats ( rather than cut and move the flat areas to where they need to be) . What I wanted to do was put a bottle jack with a steel block under the spot to be flattened and smack the top side down using another block and a sledge.

Any other ideas would be appreciated, I posted this same question in the body and paint section with no help coming from there.

thanks Gordo.
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south_island_surf · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 9:55 am Post subject:

I think it would be hard to keep a block in place while you hit it with a sledge... I think it would be fine to just smack the metal with the hammer. Use smaller hammers the closer you get to the final shape.
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flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:15 am Post subject:

Thanks for the input. I wasn't planning on doing it with one swing of the hammer ("when I nod my head you hit it"). But the block on the under side locks on the top of the bottle jack and is there to stop me from distorting the floor while reworking the anchor areas.
I really just have to flatten one of the floor ridges about two inches (keeping standard measurements so not to confuse the Americans with cm ) to make room for the anchor mount. I didn't want to have to heat the snot out of it to do it, but I will try with out heat and see how tough the floor really is.

Gordo.
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BusterBrown · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:32 am Post subject:

This guy (restolad) has a number of excellent demos on youtube that are worth a gander. He uses bodyworking dollies and hammers in a masterful fashion, and you may very well find some answers there. When you do, let us know what worked! Wink

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdLDOkEPFgA
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cru62 · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:35 am Post subject:

Gordo-I think you will find the German steel very easy to shrink. I would not apply ANY heat to the area you wish to shrink. Your plan to backup your work area is sound. As is the advise to use small hammers. If you start by tapping on the shoulders of the ridge it may be possible to compress the ridge to a flat. Remember that the metal is already stretched to a small degree from the forming process. To get the area perfect, however, you may need to cut a slit and weld it back together. But, try to massage the metal into the shape you want it first. Patience and small amounts of energy applied over time will win out over rushing to see results and punishing the metal with a sledge hammer. Good Luck and post pics.
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flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 10:55 am Post subject:

OK...got it . massage, not massacre.
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mrlimbo · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 12:46 pm Post subject:

Just found your thread yesterday... nice work.. Looks really nice.

When I bought my 67 it had one of those monza exhausts.. as someone mentioned it doesn't fit the bus.. not only will it not clear the bumper, mine rubbed against the rear apron, causing annoying humming though the bus.

I like those rims.. I wanna set for my 67. Looking forward to more posts. Good luck and keep up the great work.
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flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 1:00 pm Post subject:

flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2012 4:19 pm Post subject:

I had a go at the floor issue and it worked out well enough for me. I started with the jacked block under the section to be tapped down and tapped it down to flat. The problem I ran into is that the section being worked also began to raise up while becoming flat. So I built a support that just held the high points of the ridges around where I was trying to flatten. This worked better and I was able to create a good dropped section for the anchors.

dot marks where the flat pocket should be.

here is the first attempt.

All four pockets pounded and anchors resting in their new homes waiting to be welded.

I know wavey floor.

This is the support for under the floor during the massage.

it did the job.

Gordo.
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dawerks · Samba Member Joined: September 15, 2010 Posts: 2349

Very nice!

I wouldn't worry about the wavy floor, your metal guy did a great job with the red floors, that's what happens to them all (if you search any of the threads). You might be able to use your bottle jack and round pegs to get some of the waves out?

(But I wouldn't worry too much about it..).

NICE JOB ON THE LONG PANEL!! Shocked

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flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 11:36 am Post subject:

I found (with the search) the measurement for the emblem holes. Measured and drilled the holes no problems, I think it's even kinda straight.

Measurements given.

holes drilled and emblem on.

gordo.
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flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:14 pm Post subject:

I have the Wolfsberg Emblem that came off my 1959 beetle (my first car) and I wanted to have it placed somewhere on my bus as a memento.

I had thought that perhaps I could have it mounted on the dash somewhere. The only place that even sort of suits is just below the passenger hand grab, kinda where a deluxe clock is placed. But I would like it to look as though it belongs there (like it was a rare option that not even Everett knew about), or that it was mounted in a way that people who knew what they were doing would say "that must have taken a long time to do". Kinda like the pop open dash section of the Australian 1959 Bus ( although at least that had a purpose behind it).

So I thought having the emblem frenched in flush to the dash just below the hand grab would do.

so ....go ahead??? don't fuck with the dash??? or how about put it ______?

or sell it to fund something better for the Bus?

opinions wanted.

Gordo.
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Z · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:30 pm Post subject:

How about put the emblem in the center of a stock radio block off plate?

Outkast · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:37 pm Post subject:

Maybe the middle of the fresh air cover, Mind you the block off plate Idea is good
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dawerks · Samba Member Joined: September 15, 2010 Posts: 2349

Sell it! The Split dash is perfect 'as is' IMHO. Smile

I would take the money and make sure your clock is restored/working. There's a woman in South Dakota that rebuilds them.

Or put the emblem on the right or left far lower side of the dash (curved part).

(Left side of this picture where the silver sticker edge is).

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flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:50 pm Post subject:

flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 8:53 pm Post subject:

flemcadiddlehopper · Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:08 pm Post subject:


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Canadian 1967 11 window restoration.
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