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jpeters Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2005 Posts: 1062 Location: Woodsfield, Ohio
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 5:01 am Post subject: Laminate Flooring Question? |
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Ok, I'm about ready to reinstall the interior and I'm going with the laminate flooring in the cargo area. I've done my research and I think that I'm going to lay a some dynamat covered by 1/8 inch luaun subfloor and then the laminate flooring. But I have a couple of questions:
1. How should I secure the subfloor to the cargo floor; and, how do I secure the laminate to the subfloor? I'm thinking I'll just use some sort of adhesive.
2. How close to the sliding door did people take the edge of the subfloor and laminate and did you leave a strait edge on that edge as well? _________________ '73 Westy
'68 Westy http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=484180
'65 Westy SO-42 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435614
'66 Bug
'63 Bug (Big Bore 40hp)
@neverdnf on Instagram |
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lowdowndub Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2003 Posts: 416
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:16 am Post subject: |
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I recently put laminte flooring in my bus.
I just left the original subfloor, because it was in great shape.
Then I put down the foam padding that comes with the flooring installation kit.
And then the floor.
Then I just placed the cabinets in there correct position, drilled holes and secured them with the proper lag bolts. The weight of the cabinets and securing them to the metal underbody keeps the flooring nice and snug.
I wouldn't glue the flooring down because some day you might need to remove it.
- Ben[/img] |
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vdubadm Samba Member

Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 272 Location: Maine
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 12:55 pm Post subject: |
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I put the pergo style wood down also.
I cut a peice of 1/4" plywood to size because I didnt already have a sub floor and then glued the pergo to that and then put the cabnits on that. Now if I need/want to take the floor out I can take it out easily in one big peice.
The pergo I got would not of stayed down if I didnt glue it.
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jpeters Samba Member

Joined: May 06, 2005 Posts: 1062 Location: Woodsfield, Ohio
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ccpalmer Samba Member

Joined: September 17, 2006 Posts: 3851 Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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I would get a nice oak threashold at Lowes/Home Depot and cut it to fit, stain to match and then maybe try to press-fit it in or glue it to the laminate flooring. Then maybe tack it to the subfloor with silicone or something you could easily remove later. (if needed)
You could buy a matching threashold to the laminate flooring, but they are made of softer wood/materials and oak would last a lot longer and still look good.
Or just buy a brass or aluminum piece of threashold, trim or just angle stock and install it for a more, say, contemporary look? |
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vdubadm Samba Member

Joined: May 02, 2006 Posts: 272 Location: Maine
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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I have a piece that is pretty much like a threshold that i just have not put on yet. There is plenty of room there though. Even with it on I have a good inch, inch and a half space between the door. A little liquid nails and its not going anywhere. |
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Bajatacoma Samba Member

Joined: August 05, 2003 Posts: 675 Location: the Great State of Denial
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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Most of the laminate flooring is designed to snap together. I put the piece in place starting behind the front seat pedestals and worked back. I used several screws to hold the first piece in place; locating them where the cabinet would cover them and also where the threshold would too. Be careful drilling holes near the door as there is a track that the door rollers must slide in.
I worked back, snapping each piece into place until I was under the Z-bed. The last piece was screwed to the floor with stainless sheet metal screws. The cabinets were put in and bolted down (this holds that side down) and a metal threshold was used along the doorway. The metal threshold was secured using stainless sheet metal screws also. Be sure you seal this and any other exposed edges, as you do not want water getting under the flooring- it will ruin it. I load bikes and other crap in the bus so I wanted something durable.
Speaking of- you need to treat any rust issues of course but you also need to seal any openings in the floor that moisture could get through. This means putting gaskets around the drains. I used a piece of old inner tube, cut square gaskets and glued them in place with contact cement. The plumbing then got pushed through forming a tight seal; the bus originally used what looked like some sort of closed cell foam that had long since dried and was crumbling.
Before putting the flooring down, I covered the entire floor with 30# felt.
Be sure you wipe up any spills as soon as possible; while the material is water resistant, it is not waterproof and water will seep into the joints and can cause bubbling if water gets under it (at least that’s what I was told by a flooring guy).
_________________ '78 Westy
Who is the happier man, he who has braved the storm of life and lived or he who has stayed securely on shore and merely existed?
Hunter S Thompson |
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lowdowndub Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2003 Posts: 416
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Posted: Thu Mar 15, 2007 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Here is an updated pic.
I just used the existing aluminum trim piece. Cut a little off to fit and moved it up on the edge of the floor.
Seems to do the trick.
Just need to polish it up a bit.
- Ben |
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GfunkBus76 Samba Member

Joined: October 04, 2004 Posts: 378 Location: Cloverdale, BC, Canada
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2007 4:45 am Post subject: |
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I do have an edge piece bought from home depot too, laminate was like 25 dollars for a box, enough to do whole floor. Bought a roll of green subfoam for laminate flooring too, used a fresh 1/2inch piece of ply under lam.
Seems to have worked alright........ _________________ Gavin
1976 Westy - Customzation in slow-progress.
-8V TD swap
It Runs! -- http://youtu.be/kT5hOtwiOgk
And drives! - https://youtu.be/rVkoAgeOop0 |
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Ubergoober Samba Member

Joined: April 03, 2006 Posts: 274 Location: Coquille, OR
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 6:38 am Post subject: |
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Ah, you guys are great! I was just putting in my Pergo flooring today. Good timing. thanks for the pics, I'll put mine up soon.
The threshold thing does seem like a bit of a trick to fit properly... _________________ Glenn Roesener
Air-cooled, as God intended
'71 Riviera
'71 Westfalia
'62 Ragtop
'71 Squareback
'77 BMW R100/7 Airhead |
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79campnbus Samba Member

Joined: March 03, 2006 Posts: 152 Location: suffolk co, long island NY
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 9:59 am Post subject: |
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I was just wondering if you had to use longer bolts for the cabinets or Z-bed to make up for the added height of the flooring?
PS - The pics are great. _________________ 1979 VW Westfalia
1974 VW Beetle Sunbug |
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iwantmybustorun Samba Member

Joined: July 30, 2006 Posts: 148 Location: Connecticut
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Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2007 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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I did not. If your sub floor is the same as the original then you should be fine with the original screws. Did you remove the old flooring?
I did not use glue either. I bought locking pieces from Ocean State Job Lot. I think these need to be free to move when they get exposed to different temperatures.
The foam was a good idea but I did not use any. I don't think this will be an issue as long as the sub-flooring is level. _________________ '73 westy |
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Chillable Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2007 Posts: 48 Location: Bend, Oregon
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 12:11 pm Post subject: floor between seats |
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Did anyone laminate the small flooring area between the front seats, or did you all just stop with the main cabin? Can't tell from any of the pics... _________________ we gotta get on the road, destiny unbound...
Butterball, '78 Westy Deluxe |
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iwantmybustorun Samba Member

Joined: July 30, 2006 Posts: 148 Location: Connecticut
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:08 pm Post subject: Re: floor between seats |
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Chillable wrote: |
Did anyone laminate the small flooring area between the front seats, or did you all just stop with the main cabin? Can't tell from any of the pics... |
I didn't. Left the rubber mat there. That area gets really hot if you use the heater... so leave enough room for it to expand and contract. You'd have to make some sort of molding for the ends. Not sure how you would do that, unless you drill into the vent space below. _________________ '73 westy |
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david_594 Samba Member

Joined: November 08, 2006 Posts: 484 Location: Columbus, OH
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Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:20 pm Post subject: |
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What wood has everyone used for their subfloor? The stuff in my bus was definitely not original and needs replacing.
Lauan or Tempered Hardboard seemed the cheap options from home depot. My fear is that either of them might swell like crazy if they were to get wet.
Any thoughts? _________________ 1968 westy weekender
2000 jetta tdi
79 vespa p200e |
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kombi-konfusion Samba Member
Joined: October 06, 2007 Posts: 8
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:41 pm Post subject: |
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I got two full boxes of pergo flooring from the guitarest in my band. i put it in the bus and its lasted better than i thought, even with the massive amount of people and music equipment theres only one visible ding when one of my drums went flying off the seat. i put a little vw bus rug down and now its a party wagon. |
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NOVA Bus Samba Member

Joined: April 18, 2005 Posts: 517 Location: Herndon, VA
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Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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Nice work guys!
One question, for the stock Westy interior, did the flooring go under the z-bed and fridge/sink cabinets?
_________________ ********************************
1977 Transporter / Weekender
- GE engine, L-Jetronic w/ hyd. lifters
- Brown Beige plaid P27 Interior (ED)
http:/[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-29638.png]Click to view image
Camper Interior donor:
[/URL]/www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=721 (M-Code for interior). |
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rsorak Samba Member

Joined: March 07, 2005 Posts: 2005 Location: Memphis
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Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 10:28 am Post subject: |
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Quote: |
for the stock Westy interior, did the flooring go under the z-bed and fridge/sink cabinets?
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It does but only about 4 inches not the full length. _________________ Rick '71 Westfalia & '73 Thing |
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Orangeena Samba Member

Joined: February 06, 2008 Posts: 133 Location: Berkshire - UK
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:53 am Post subject: Laminate Flooring Question? |
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Priority one was to get the stinky, wet particle board floor out of my bus when I got it. It was wet and causing (further) rot in the floor.
After welding up the holes with the assistance of an Alan Schofield replacement panel, I have put down a layer of silver bubble insulation, then loft boards. These come in 14 inch widths and lock together, so it made fitting them in the bus WAY easier. They are however only particle board (chip board). So they needed some protection at the edge (the PO had used duct tape. mmmm nice).
Wickes is a builders merchant here in the UK and I got a length of industrial step edging and a piece of aluminium angle.
I first drilled some holes in the angle and screwed it to the edge of the board, with the angle underneath. Then I overlapped the face of the angle with the step edging after trimming it to fit nice.
I am really pleased with the result. It is extrememly durable because it was designed for a harder life than I am giving it, and it looks pretty stock. A bonus is that the vinyl tiles I laid on the floor butt perfectly up to the lip of the step edging.
Here are some pics.
You can see where I had to trim it to fit around the (left side) sliding door.
No laughing at the sills. These were the work of the PO.
Slightly blurry, but you can see the profile of the main piece (I could not find a bit of the angle to show you)
The final effect.
Cheers
Max _________________ 1973 Bay in L20B
- Originaly a panel van
- Partial Westy Interior
- Viking Spacemaker roof
- Slider of a donor bus
- Doors imported from Australia
- 22nd Owner ! |
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grandfatherjim Samba Member

Joined: April 23, 2007 Posts: 180 Location: near Ottawa, Canada
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 1:50 pm Post subject: Re: Laminate Flooring Question? |
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Orangeena wrote: |
Priority one was to get the stinky, wet particle board floor out of my bus when I got it. It was wet and causing (further) rot in the floor.
After welding up the holes with the assistance of an Alan Schofield replacement panel, I have put down a layer of silver bubble insulation, then loft boards. These come in 14 inch widths and lock together, so it made fitting them in the bus WAY easier. They are however only particle board (chip board). So they needed some protection at the edge (the PO had used duct tape. mmmm nice).
Wickes is a builders merchant here in the UK and I got a length of industrial step edging and a piece of aluminium angle.
I first drilled some holes in the angle and screwed it to the edge of the board, with the angle underneath. Then I overlapped the face of the angle with the step edging after trimming it to fit nice.
I am really pleased with the result. It is extrememly durable because it was designed for a harder life than I am giving it, and it looks pretty stock. A bonus is that the vinyl tiles I laid on the floor butt perfectly up to the lip of the step edging.
Here are some pics.
You can see where I had to trim it to fit around the (left side) sliding door.
No laughing at the sills. These were the work of the PO.
Slightly blurry, but you can see the profile of the main piece (I could not find a bit of the angle to show you)
The final effect.
Cheers
Max |
Oangeena,
I like the edging treatment a lot. How thick was your total floor? I have 1/2" plus vinyl roll flooring. Yours looks thicker and I wonder if the same system would work for me.
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