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My 1966 Fastback build up
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you keep the engine OG with used/worn out rings,bearings,cam,valve guides etc it will still be a worn out crappy engine. Better just listen to your machinist/engine builder if you want to drive it this summer!
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to end up replacing everything in the engine that needs to be replaced. He says the cylinders and pistons are good so I'll leave those. I would never re-use bearings of any kind in an engine and I'll also be replacing everything up top. I have a set of good single port heads ready as well. If I can get the engine running this summer great but if not there's always next year.

I'm not going to cut corners with this car. When I get home I'll post a pic of my previous project Cool

Thanks for the input, you guys are a wealth of knowledge here and I appreciate it.
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Last edited by Evilgtiguy on Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:02 pm; edited 3 times in total
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2015 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I added a pair of braided stainless steel brake lines on my order I figured that I might as well replace any of the old rubber while I'm in there.
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've actually started swinging wrenches on the car and replaced the front steel brake lines from the master cylinder to the front caliper lines. It went well I believe. Of course in the spirit of fixing something I found something else to fix. I was suspicious of the feed line from the fluid reservoir to the master cylinder. I pulled the fuel tank and started inspecting the rubber hose and it cracked, leaking fluid so guess what I'm fixing next? Better to have it leak now than on the road.

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The OG lines had to go
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This had me concerned. At full lock the rubber brake line was very tight like a guitar string.
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I removed the left caliper and found the piston seal pitted and starting to deteriorate. I could rebuild the caliper but I think I'm just going to replace it as I have a new one coming for the right side. I'll probably rebuild it anyhow just for the experience.
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New and old
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So here's the new repair that I'll be doing tomorrow or the next day Rolling Eyes
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 27, 2015 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Small steps again. Just cleaning a little.
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Look at what I found! A steering box LOL!
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2015 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a little more progress today by tearing into the front end. I had a questionable upper ball joint that I knew needed attention so I decided to remove it. Upon inspection it seems that the joint itself is good and even the grease fitting moved freely. A few whacks with a hammer, a breaker bar, and hand tools and it was out.

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I removed the rotor and inspected the wheel bearings, races, and spindle. Considering the age of the car it looked good, I've seen cars 30 years newer that look twice as bad or worse.
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I also noticed that the boot on the outer tie rod end was starting to crack so I removed the spindle (to get cleaned up and painted) and I will take the complete steering linkage out and inspect the inner tie rod end.
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More work again today on the front end. This afternoon a caliper and stainless steel lines showed up courtesy of UPS! I also took my upper ball joint boot apart, cleaned and re-greased the ball joint with some Lucas goop. Installed the boot and safety wired it.

I cleaned off left spindle as it as covered in dirt and grease. I debated having the spindles blasted but at this point I decided against it. I'd rather wait until I can remove the front beam when the body is off. I noticed some of the seals where the arms meet the beam are just old and I would replace all of them and have the beam assembly blasted and painted properly. For the time being I simply rattle can painted the arms, etc with a rust paint.

Before (right side)
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After (left side)
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New caliper from Cip1.com
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Left spindle re-installed with repaired ball joint. I did notice that I'm missing a bump stop on the bottom of the resting point on the upper arm. Get a replacement and weld it on I guess.

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Tomorrow I'm going to drop the brake shields off for an estimate for blasting. They are in good shape and off the car so I might as well get them done right before reinstalling them. I'm also going to order a matching caliper tomorrow and just get them done right as well and I'll keep the OG one and clean it up. I'm sure I'll come across another OG caliper so that I have a matching set down the road.

Thanks for tuning in.
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Brent
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 2:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evilgtiguy wrote:
Tomorrow I'm going to drop the brake shields off for an estimate for blasting. They are in good shape and off the car so I might as well get them done right before reinstalling them. I'm also going to order a matching caliper tomorrow and just get them done right as well and I'll keep the OG one and clean it up. I'm sure I'll come across another OG caliper so that I have a matching set down the road.

Thanks for tuning in.


If you have the space, you might want to look into getting your own blaster. They're really not too much, The HF ones are around $100. And big air compressors are always available used on CL. I only say this as you mentioned a body off later. You'll really save a lot doing it yourself. I paid a small fortune to have all my panels blasted before I had my own, enough that it would have paid for my own rig!
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2015 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished up replacing both of my front calipers and stainless lines. I started to bleed the brakes with my son and we started to get some progress, in with the good and out with the bad. Well things were going great until I pressed the brake pedal and heard "Pffft!"

I knew exactly what happened, I asked my son to press the pedal while I went to inspect the issue. It turns out that the brake line that runs over the transaxle on the right side ruptured. Yay!

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Better to have this happen now and not on the road! This is why I'm going through the mechanical first. Now I'm going to think about a plan of attack, more later.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think all new steel lines would be in order. Make 'em yourself, the line and fittings are available just about anywhere, and the flaring tool is fairly inexpensive at Princess Auto.
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's exactly what I'm going to do. I'm going to have a look at the lines and pick some up tomorrow and work on replacing them. Once they are replaced I'll see what else ruptures.

While I was under there I found a few other things that will need attention (big surprise right?) Axle boot on the right is rotten and the thermostats going into the body have been butchered. I'll post pics this evening.
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2015 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the old line out and it was crusty. I'm going to pick up some new lines tomorrow and make my own and replace everything in the back. Depending on how things go I should have it done tomorrow night possibly Wednesday night at which point I'll flush the system out again and have my wife pump the brakes for me. Get her involved right?

Here's what I took out

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Here's what I'm going to replace

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This is what I will tackle at some point when the brakes are done.

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Here's the butchery that I was referring to earlier

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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another update on my project. I replaced the rear brake line that runs over the transmission. I'm not sure if I like how I made the line and may re-do it but for now it's fixed the leak. I topped up the reservoir and pumped the brakes and heard another pressure leak. I went to check my new connections for leaks and all was good. Oddly I found my left rear drum had become stuck. I'm suspecting that the wheel cylinder is shot. I will have to take the drums off both sides to see but I might as well replace them anyways.

I keep finding more things to fix as I go. I'm enjoying this.

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Clatter
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Way to fight on, brother!

I'm all for getting away with what you can when you can,
but..

Seems to me that if you have lines rusting clear through,
That it makes good sense to replace them all.

Bet you your long hard line running the length of the tunnel is crispy as burnt toast.

When it comes time to do the whole resto thing,
You will be happy to not have this issue to address at the time.

Also know that those flex hoses are notorious for collapsing internally;
Even though they might look fine on the outside.
Boy, that'll drive you nuts..
My bet is that's the issue with your rear sticking.

Even 'new' or 'NOS' master cylinders and wheel cylinders can have the internal rubber parts become stiff and un-useable from too much time/sitting.
This is very common.
Contact Jim Adney to have your old ones rebuilt, or send him some 'new' ones. BTDT. Having new parts fail on installation can make you crazy.

If you are going to have the system open, then bug the family to help bleed, may as well do that once. Save yourself the wasted fluid and garage floor mess. Wink

Brake fluid _can_ be a good rust preventative, however. Razz

Sucks to be the one to tell you that it's actually 10x harder and 20x more expensive than you thought.
Sorry 'bout that.
But,
Seriously,
It's the brakes, after all.. Wink
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Seems to me that if you have lines rusting clear through,
That it makes good sense to replace them all.


What he said

otherwise you will build hydraulic pressure again and the next weak link will pop and you are back to square one. Those flex lines look nasty, crusty and old, I wouldn't trust them.
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Evilgtiguy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clatter,

I agree with you on replacing all the lines as I've seen bacon that's less crispy. How is the best way to access the brake line in the tunnel? Also is it worth while leaving the transaxle in while I do the brake lines or should I just work around it?
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was going to say the same thing. Particulary regarding the hoses. New ones can be had a CIP1 for a reasonable price. As for the lines, I bought a 25 foot roll of tubing; cheaper than modifing each new line. Not to sound preachy but it's far more important to stop than it is to go. Why take the chance?
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Main line is next to the tunnel, not in it, not too difficult to replace as I recall. Same with the one over the transmission, you can do it with the tranny in place, a bit fiddly but not too bad.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll chime in along with everyone else -- replace all the brake lines at once. Bobnotch recommends replacing the one next to the tunnel with a two-piece line:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6735729
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 20 ft roll of coated brake line that I fabricated a line that goes over the transaxle. It works but I'm not sold on how it looks, I might wait until later when the body is off down the road and re-do it but for now it will do.

The line on the left side looks like it will be a PITA but whatever. I'll feel better knowing that all the lines are good and you guys are right about being able to stop. There's no point having all the bodywork done only to ruin it in a collision or worse!

The brake line from the master cylinder to the rear looks like it runs inside the vehicle but I'll have another look at it.
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