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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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Just wanted to add a few more before and after images and correct a mistake I had earlier. Old DKP Driver was the one who provided some great guidance on where to get the engine work done in the bay area. I confused my good information sources.
This is a great forum and I hope one day I'll be able to pass on some help as many others have done for me...
Here's one tip, take pictures, lots of pictures (not videos) when disassembling and when you take out the nuts, bolts, washers take a picture of the bag you put stuff in and the labeling, even if you're going to replace it with some thing new. Do it EVERY TIME! Learn from my mistakes. Cause the worse that's going to happen is you won't need it and you'll have a nicely labeled baggie with what it is and a record of where it goes when you toss or sell it.
Some before and during pics of the rear end rebuild. Along with the torsion bar clean up. (I just happened to have some red paint that looked stock, not that anyone would ever know, but I do!)
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:55 am Post subject: |
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Today is the day I reinstall this damn motor. I prepped it enough and even pulled the tranny out and mated it outside the car as I've read that is easier.
I write this post as motivation, as that last thing I need is tens of internet folk looking down on me as a liar.
Image of the engine compartment before deciding to repull the tranny.
And them mated together for the first time.
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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How in the heavens do you get the nut started on the bolt on top of the tranny above the starter? Let alone torqued down.
I think maybe I need to remove the starter but then the issue is getting the starter nut off from the back of the motor when it's installed... Writing this down I think maybe I need to use the access hole which is well covered from above. Do you guys/gals normally use any sealant when installing the starter? Bentley mentioned using something I assume something like RTV but I'm not sure how necessary that would be?
This has been a lot harder to get reinstalled than I expected... most of it is just me not thinking it all the way through such using a jack that couldn't get the motor high enough with the ramps I was using. |
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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So I did answer my own question. After removing carpeting and a pile of parts I was able to open the hatch and get at the starter bolt, in turn without the starter it was easy to get at the transmission upper bolt.
I think I'm now on to the hard part... WIRING LOTS OF WIRING.
Unlike nuts and bolts there's no little baggie telling me where they go, and I don't have a good memory for what the PO hack and slashed and where they had things running prior. Oh well, I guess its time to sit back and just stare at it for another few months.
I notice the new tubes for the heater blower are way long, one I assume replaces the plastic piece on the passenger side? Seems like one less place to leak but any concerns removing it? The driver side just looks off with how long it is.
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12729 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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Nice work! Glad to see this come to fruition.
The starter seems dirtier than that engine deserves
Also, you did get the torsion arms installed in the same side they came out of, right? They can break otherwise…… _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com |
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wcfvw69 Samba Purist
Joined: June 10, 2004 Posts: 13389 Location: Arizona
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Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Nice job pushing yourself to get er done! Looking forward to hearing it run. _________________ Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc
Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.
**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours** |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:55 am Post subject: |
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post up pics of the wires as you go along, im sure between the collective group here we can probably help you out. _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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Go down to 1978.
Distributor Parts & Specifications
Bus VIN / Chassis Numbers
Fuel Injection Swaps
http://www.epartsland.com/search?q=vw+bus
vw76westy wrote: |
not all afm's are the same
they are very different and not compatible
ca74,all 75 and early76 use a 012 afm that has 6pins
late76 uses a 018 afm that has 7pin
77-79 uses a 020 afm that also has 7 pin
you can use a 020 afm(77-79) on a 76
but you cannot use a 018 (late 76) on a 77-79
the 012 afm does not have a temp sensor 1 built into the unit
and is why it has 1 less pin
the 018 afm does not have the full throttle switch built in (its on the throttle body)
the 020 afm does have full throttle switch built in
and the ecu will reconize it if you put it in a 76 bus
there is also a 022 afm that is used on ca79 but that another story
most sellers/shops just assume that the 020 fits in all buses
and is whats offered in most places for a rebuilt afm
check the part number to be sure you have the correct afm
if you have a 78 bus and everything is working as it should
you should have no problem going 80 mph and getting
at least 17mpg (18+ if your outside ca) |
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:38 am Post subject: |
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In reading through those links I have the correct parts for a 78 Federal.
ECU (022 906 021 AG)
AFM (020)
Distributor VW 021-905-205P, Bosch 0231 168 005.
The Stamp on my Fan Shroud is GE0163XX which if I read correctly would be from a 78? Can someone confirm I read the chassis link right?
Thanks again for the help Tcash both on the forum and in person. |
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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So I've start the wiring and I have a question, where do all these grounds go?? I sorta understand the wiring diagram but not sure where all the browns go? I assume some go to the back of the instrument cluster, others to the motor, and some to behind the dashboard but how can I be sure? I get it that they just need to be grounded but I'd like to use the existing crimped loose wires I have.
Thanks. |
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timvw7476 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2013 Posts: 2206 Location: seattle
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:08 pm Post subject: Dim light at the end of a halfa$$ rebuild |
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About the grounds and all the brown leads, there are three multi-prong grounds I know of in mid-seventies bays, one @ the top of the engine case
for F.I. set up, one @ the metal back of VDO gauge pod, and third is
welded to the body under the dashboard near the wiper motor area. For
some reason that third one gets painted with the body so get a flashlight/trouble light to see it. |
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 10:57 am Post subject: |
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Ok, I think I figured it out. Had a confusing time with the orange circles in the Bentley, along with fuse 7. After getting it all buttoned up except for the instrument cluster, I noticed I put the fuse box upside down. doh! That's a job for another month...
I still haven't hooked up the battery to actually test any of the wires but at least they all go somewhere now.
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 11:11 am Post subject: |
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Looking Good. |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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upside down can be better....the relays cant get any water in them from leaking window seals....
just remember its upside down while repairing things. _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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Any suggestions on what to fill the holes in the dashboard with? You can see them in the above pictures. The PO just kept adding new ones... I can only assume looking for a better place than stock for the ignition.
*I should add I already have 1 lighter and the defroster just off the right of the picture. |
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timvw7476 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2013 Posts: 2206 Location: seattle
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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:04 pm Post subject: Dim light at the end of a halfa$$ rebuild |
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I found decent blanking plugs in early '80s Honda civics and accords.
If you can find these cars, the plugs are right where you are going to put them in your VW, right of the ignition switch. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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Orchard has push in black plastic caps, in a few sizes. |
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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I'll make sure to check Osh next time I'm there for them, thanks!
Tonight I hooked up the battery to check how my wiring worked out...
Well, it started off ok, with the oil and charge lights turning on, then went unpleasant as my helper turned on the wipers and not the turn signals, which proceeded to go up against a dry filthy dirty windscreen and got stuck making a horrible noise at the motor. Then they sprayed the water, and somehow some ended up on the floor of the cab...I assume hole in the tubing.
But then when actually turning on the signals, success... Partially. The left works great but the right flashed way too fast. Headlights? Total success.
Unfortunately it got worse as the brake lights appear nonexistent, and there was something definitely wrong with the right taillight... Then everything went dark. No power anywhere.
I pulled out the air box, battery, and noticed I was missing a ground on the right rear taillight so I'm hoping that caused me to blow a fuse. I found a good post on how to troubleshoot and I'll see if I can fix it on Friday.
I'm also missing the side marker wires for both sides, does anyone know how they fit? I think I have a ground that goes to one of the two ground tabs on the rear and a small connector to the light but the light itself appears to have 4 small tabs? Anyone have a picture of it wired up? I haven't searched yet.
Last item is I noticed I have a ground wire coming from the transmission, not the grounding strap, but a small brown wire with a female end with a thick insulating cover. It goes to a circle connector on the tranny at the same spot as the strap. Any idea what connects to it?
I felt close today when those headlights turned on. Its been 2+ years since she's had any power. |
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Evilrift Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2013 Posts: 108 Location: San Jose
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Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:11 pm Post subject: |
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Tomorrow I try and start her up. Finished up the last minute items like throttle cable (1hr!), put in some gas, new battery, fixed my grounds, tighten the alternator and put in an engine seal.
So will I feel the thrill of victory or the agony of defeat? I hope she fires up. |
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