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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 35895
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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 Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:31 pm Post subject: Fix/replacing '70/'71 steering column housing/switches |
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I took my original column apart in hopes of fixing the looseness in the column mounting. On turns the wheel could move laterally and also up-and-down as much as 1/2 inch. I wanted to fix it before the Rally next month.
The collar/clamp, usually cracked, was broken completely on mine, so a replacement was in order. I thought I had two spares that were not broken.
Well, that was a disaster, and I am seeking a replacement housing and also the '71-only ignition switch (just the electrical portion). Anyone got one? I made do but I don't know if it will hold up. And the Rally is in just a few weeks. Yikes!
But there was some info that might be useful to folks here.
The first is that the two spares did not match my original '71. They both had the '71-style plastic holder for all those turn signal switch wires, and also the combination connector for the ignition switch.
The key clocking was different, but I didn't realize that was just the start. I figured I could exchange the guts from my original and keep my single-key setup on the car.
First, the ignition switch disintegrated, despite being careful when extracting it per Bentley. Those three crimps that hold the cover on the cup are just not strong enough. Crimping them tighter cracks the cover.
The bearing that supports the steering shaft is different. Mine is small (on the right) and sits directly in the housing under the large snap ring. The replacements (left) are insulated by a pair of plastic half-shells, and there is a ground wire connected to a tab on the bearing. They cannot be interchanged.
You can see the housings are different where the bearing fits. I made a red line to show the height difference in the machined seat for the bearings. Original on the right.
So I put my original back together, though it is pretty fragile right now.
Since I couldn't use a new housing with a good front (of car) clamp, I tried to improve the looseness by fixing the bracket that is part of the collapsing design. The little plastic parts (sort of like rivets in function) are designed to shear in an accident, allowing the column to move forward rather than crush your chest. In most cars these pieces are loose, making the column loose, because the plastic has turned brittle, cracked, and fallen out.
I used a hot melt glue gun to fill the holes to make new shear "pins." I filled all four holes on each piece and really jammed the glue in there. VW only filled two, and there are only two holes in the black stamped part for pins (on each side), I thought the glue would be softer than the original plastic, and filled all four holes to make it stronger.
Once cooled and hard, I scraped the excess off with a razor blade.
Back on the car, it really helped tight up the loose column, even with the clamp still broken off.
I am not 100% sure the hot melt glue is the right combo of strength and shearing force, but I am expecting it's close, and it's better than nothing!
So hopefully this can help folks repair the safety-critical piece.
Anyone know what year the left-side column housing fits? '70 maybe?
And hopefully someone's got a true '71 column I can buy! PN 311-953-503-AJ.
As for the ignition switch, I'm going to try the '71 Bug switch and deal with the different connectors with a sort of adapter harness. If it works electrically, then I'll try crimping the wires into the original connector tabs and plastic housing. Stay tuned...
Last edited by KTPhil on Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:52 am; edited 7 times in total |
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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:22 pm Post subject: |
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Good info so far, and I've been toying with the idea of using a Bug switch and adapting the wires to fit.
My 71 switch is working fine, but I know one day I might need to replace it. I emailed Jim Adney and he doesn't have any more of them.
I've been looking around the Web for 71 Bug switches to try, and two weeks ago I bought a Standard Motor Products #US121 switch off of eBay for $15.24 including shipping. Here's a link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/380891498377
Don't mind the picture; it's a stock photo. When my switch arrived I was pleased to see that it was made in Germany, had all the correct wire colors, and terminal numbers on the back. Testing key positions with an ohmmeter revealed that the wires were all connected properly, including the "X" wire, the key buzzer wire and even the grey side marker light wire, not used on US models.
BUT, I haven't had time to fit it to my car. I had intended to do a writeup on the whole thing when it was finished, but I'm posting this now if you'd like to try that switch. Samba members who have replaced 71 Bug switches lately say the quality of many of the switches leaves a lot to be desired, hence my search for a (hopefully) better one.
Hope this helps a little, and good luck!
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 35895
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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Is that unit all plastic, or the original style metal housing?
I normally prefer metal, but with a NOS unit falling apart after a few short years, I think a welded/sealed plastic unit may actually last longer. |
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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:12 am Post subject: |
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It's plastic, but I'm with you: I really don't think that would be an issue. I snapped a few pics --
As delivered:
The wires are of course way longer than required for a Type 3:
A detail of the back, with the terminal labels. Note "S" for the key buzzer, "X" for headlights, "51" for the starter, "30" for battery, etc.:
The maker's mark. Looks like an "M" over a "W":
The plastic housing, side view:
And finally, a detail of the spring contact in the center for the buzzer:
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 18042
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 8:37 am Post subject: |
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I just bought a metal cased ignition switch at Springfield German Auto for $30.
311 905 865AEC
T-1/2/3 68-71
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 35895
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:18 am Post subject: |
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Looks like it snaps together with a couple of prongs. It might be hard to rework when it ages and gets brittle, but that would be no worse than the thin metal breaking as mine did.
I'll be giving it a try when it arrives. |
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Donnie strickland
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Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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jadney
Samba Member
Joined: January 13, 2005
Posts: 263
Location: Madison, WI, USA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:47 am Post subject: Re: Fix/replace/looking for a '71-only steering column housi |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
The bearing that supports the steering shaft is different. Mine is small (on the right) and sits directly in the housing under the large snap ring. The replacements (left) are insulated by a pair of plastic half-shells, and there is a ground wire connected to a tab on the bearing. They cannot be interchanged.
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I believe the key here is that the insulated bearing was used up thru '70, then the non-insulated bearing started in '71, so the housing on the left must be '70 or earlier, or it was used on some year of Beetle. The insulated vs. non-insulated bearing was due to the change in the horn circuit. It turns out that I have one of each in my basement and I'd never noticed the difference. Unfortunately I don't remember where the insulated bearing housing came from. I'm surprised that there were insulated bearing housings that included the little plastic holder for the ign sw connectors, but maybe they just used long wires and ignored that special little rectangular chamber for the special '71 system. I have little experience with '70s, so I don't know if that housing was used then.
The plastic replacement ign switch looks just like the replacements for '68-70, but with more wires. It's probably a Beetle replacement and would be decent replacement. You can probably use those long wires, as is, or coil up the excess and use one of the 3 conductor double-male insulated couplers like those used in the headlight buckets, to make the connector sex work out right.
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Jim Adney
50+ years of VW Type 3 experience
Specializing in VW Type 3 parts and service |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 35895
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:24 am Post subject: Re: Fix/replace/looking for a '71-only steering column housi |
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| jadney wrote: |
| KTPhil wrote: |
The bearing that supports the steering shaft is different. Mine is small (on the right) and sits directly in the housing under the large snap ring. The replacements (left) are insulated by a pair of plastic half-shells, and there is a ground wire connected to a tab on the bearing. They cannot be interchanged.
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I believe the key here is that the insulated bearing was used up thru '70, then the non-insulated bearing started in '71, so the housing on the left must be '70 or earlier, or it was used on some year of Beetle. The insulated vs. non-insulated bearing was due to the change in the horn circuit. It turns out that I have one of each in my basement and I'd never noticed the difference. Unfortunately I don't remember where the insulated bearing housing came from. I'm surprised that there were insulated bearing housings that included the little plastic holder for the ign sw connectors, but maybe they just used long wires and ignored that special little rectangular chamber for the special '71 system. I have little experience with '70s, so I don't know if that housing was used then.
The plastic replacement ign switch looks just like the replacements for '68-70, but with more wires. It's probably a Beetle replacement and would be decent replacement. You can probably use those long wires, as is, or coil up the excess and use one of the 3 conductor double-male insulated couplers like those used in the headlight buckets, to make the connector sex work out right. |
Thanks, Jim. That all makes sense. The two spares I bought were sold as '71s, but the differences are very subtle, and it's been years. Assuming
I plan to make up an adapter harness of some sort that will plug into the car's stock connector, shortening the switch wires to suit. I'll post pictures of the whole operation to share in a new thread about the '71-only ignition switch. There seems to be more interest lately, as well as some confusion about the ignition key buzzer and X-terminal for headlights. |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23365
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:32 am Post subject: Re: Fix/replace/looking for a '71-only steering column housi |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| jadney wrote: |
| KTPhil wrote: |
The bearing that supports the steering shaft is different. Mine is small (on the right) and sits directly in the housing under the large snap ring. The replacements (left) are insulated by a pair of plastic half-shells, and there is a ground wire connected to a tab on the bearing. They cannot be interchanged.
|
I believe the key here is that the insulated bearing was used up thru '70, then the non-insulated bearing started in '71, so the housing on the left must be '70 or earlier, or it was used on some year of Beetle. The insulated vs. non-insulated bearing was due to the change in the horn circuit. It turns out that I have one of each in my basement and I'd never noticed the difference. Unfortunately I don't remember where the insulated bearing housing came from. I'm surprised that there were insulated bearing housings that included the little plastic holder for the ign sw connectors, but maybe they just used long wires and ignored that special little rectangular chamber for the special '71 system. I have little experience with '70s, so I don't know if that housing was used then.
The plastic replacement ign switch looks just like the replacements for '68-70, but with more wires. It's probably a Beetle replacement and would be decent replacement. You can probably use those long wires, as is, or coil up the excess and use one of the 3 conductor double-male insulated couplers like those used in the headlight buckets, to make the connector sex work out right. |
Thanks, Jim. That all makes sense. The two spares I bought were sold as '71s, but the differences are very subtle, and it's been years. Assuming
I plan to make up an adapter harness of some sort that will plug into the car's stock connector, shortening the switch wires to suit. I'll post pictures of the whole operation to share in a new thread about the '71-only ignition switch. There seems to be more interest lately, as well as some confusion about the ignition key buzzer and X-terminal for headlights. |
Phil, you might want to leave this thread going, and just add to it.  You've already showed the big difference between the 68-70 column head and the 71 only unit. Plus now there's a part number for the 71 switch (granted it's a Standard Electric number) for the 1 year only part.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
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| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 35895
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:50 am Post subject: |
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| OK, will do. I'll take more photos of the '70(?) hardware, too, for reference. At least one of the '70 housings had the ignition switch (mechanical and electrical), so that may be useful to folks. I changed the topic title to reflect this. |
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Donnie strickland
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 10:49 am Post subject: Re: Fix/replace/looking for a '71-only steering column housi |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| I plan to make up an adapter harness of some sort that will plug into the car's stock connector, shortening the switch wires to suit. I'll post pictures of the whole operation to share in a new thread about the '71-only ignition switch. There seems to be more interest lately, as well as some confusion about the ignition key buzzer and X-terminal for headlights. |
That'll be really good to have, Phil -- there's a lot of 71's out there, and there's lots of threads by folks needing a 71 switch. One or two of them say they got a 71 Bug switch to work, but without giving any details. As I say, I had intended to try this out, but it looks like circumstances have led to you being the one to show the way!  Good luck!
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 23365
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 7:16 pm Post subject: Re: Fix/replace/looking for a '71-only steering column housi |
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| Donnie strickland wrote: |
| KTPhil wrote: |
| I plan to make up an adapter harness of some sort that will plug into the car's stock connector, shortening the switch wires to suit. I'll post pictures of the whole operation to share in a new thread about the '71-only ignition switch. There seems to be more interest lately, as well as some confusion about the ignition key buzzer and X-terminal for headlights. |
That'll be really good to have, Phil -- there's a lot of 71's out there, and there's lots of threads by folks needing a 71 switch. One or two of them say they got a 71 Bug switch to work, but without giving any details. As I say, I had intended to try this out, but it looks like circumstances have led to you being the one to show the way! Good luck! |
Yeah, it took me a while to work out how to make a GM switch work with the 71 and later wiring. I'm still not sure I have it figured out, as I was swapping out a 71 only column for a GM tilt unit, and trying to make it work. 
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 35895
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, quick update: the '71 Bug switch works perfectly!
I left the cables at about a foot long, crimped/soldered on the right male tabs, and it plugged into the car's 5-pin socket perfectly. There are a few wrinkles, and I also took lots of photos of both the '70 and '71 hardware, to guide anyone else trying this.
Thanks to this group and the T3 list for all the suggestions and to Jim Adney for coming up with the right '71 housing.
Photos to come later in the weekend... |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 35895
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
Okay, quick update: the '71 Bug switch works perfectly!
I left the cables at about a foot long, crimped/soldered on the right male tabs, and it plugged into the car's 5-pin socket perfectly. There are a few wrinkles, and I also took lots of photos of both the '70 and '71 hardware, to guide anyone else trying this.
Thanks to this group and the T3 list for all the suggestions and to Jim Adney for coming up with the right '71 housing.
Photos to come later in the weekend... |
Ok, it took a while, but I posted a thread for the ignition switch replacement on a '71 using the Big electrical part:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=616570 |
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