Dee - the '67 T2 Brazilian Split

[Insertcomedyname]

And it begins...

I'm the proud owner of a new to me split. Intention is to do nothing this year but safety (split brakes & seatbelts) and have fun. But then I got started!

I started with the rear shock replacement so I could do bump stops and boot seal that was split at the same time and pick off some "easy" jobs... Haha I should have known.. the bump stop mount is corroded so I can't push the replacement bump on, no problem I can put a new one on I thought. Moved on to the boot cover and LOTS of oil came out... I'm thinking this shouldn't happen but I'm not 100% so appreciate any advice..

So my thinking is if I'm going to do the brakes anyway I might as well take the axle off and check the seals and as the bump stop mount is welded it will be easier to do off the van.. but... I don't exactly have room to do anything. So now I'm thinking engine of, transmission out and the easy jobs have a become a monster! Love classics

[LJay]

The boots help contain the oil in the gearbox but will have oil in them so it will leak when split/pulled off , Unless you really want to have the transmission out…..if I were you I’d fit new boots (remember when fitting the boots keep the bit with the screws at 90 degrees), top up the box an drain/refill the reduction boxes,maybe strip check the rear brakes an check for leaks at the bearing seals.
The bump stops are bolt on an you get them from Alan Schofields for 13 quid, screw welding,fit forget an go cruising 😁

https://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_67820...01505.html

Was this bus for sale in Aberdeen? Edit just noticed your profile location! I’m just down the road beside Arbroath, good to see another split up here!
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1962 Turkis Westfalia so34.

My build thread.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=742279

[Insertcomedyname]

Hi LJay appreciate the info. I took the bolt out of the bump mount but it didn't budge. I'll get the hammer on it, just assumed it was welded but could be rusted on.. I've sheared a bolt on the reduction box / swing arm so have that to do also now. I do have new boots already so will get them on and try avoid the engine/ transmission job. Save that for next winter! I bought shock mount nuts and bolts from C&C and they are missed matched thread which is annoying for a new part as they only sent one typed off nut, pretty poor from them I think.. I'll check out Schofield's from now on!

And yeah the bus was Aberdeen, local to me. I wasn't looking actively, but I've been interested for years and never thought I'd afford one.. Couldn't resist at the price I was offered but the bus is named "Dee" for divorce now as she almost caused one! The kids love it but the wife's taking some convincing so keeping the engine in will help with the "optics" of the situation! 🤞
Cheers
Andy

[challomoner]

The bump stop brackets on my tubes are welded on along with the bolt on top.

[LJay]

[LJay]

I know what you mean regarding the women, I could’ve called my last couple and the current bus Dee as well! Your bus looked very good for the money when I saw the advert,I’ll maybe see it at a show, I’m hoping to get mines on the road for the Glamis transport extravaganza but I think that will be a bit of a stretch.

That’s pretty shoddy on C&Cs part, they don’t seem to be as good as they used to be, I use Schofields,Autocraft engineering and Cool Air mostly, at least if you have a problem you can call them.
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1962 Turkis Westfalia so34.

My build thread.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=742279

[djfordmanjack]

Don't let your wife see the underside of your bus, EVER !
And do yourself a favor. in only doing the minimal amount of work to keep it rolling and safe. brakes? - of course ! The bump stop is not an essential safety part on your bus. It will only be needed if bus is fully loaded with a metric ton. Do a little wire wheeling on the rusted bracket, paint on some rust inhibitor ( Hammerite) and add a new rubber.
If you don't have the space or experience, please, DO NOT pull engine or transaxle or this is going to become a huge nightmare. Bus is looking pretty outside, but when the underside looks like this, you will learn quickly they didn't take much care for mechnical stuff, if at all. Not trying to spoil the party or talk down your new pride and joy bus, but you are walking a very dangerous path here....
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Hotrods, Fords, Veedubs and Triumph Twins !

52 Barndoor DLX Coachbuild project
55 Wolfsburg panel project, og paint Taubenblau L31
62 Dickholmer, custom color Seeblau L360
63 1500 Notch, og paint Rubin Rot L456
67 1500 Käfer, og paint Lotus weiß L282 w/red interior

[mdege]

I agree with djfordmanjack. Get the important safety relevant stuff done first. The bump stop part can be replaced without removing the transaxle. But it can wait.

I would be more worried about the screws attaching the spring plate to the RGBs. You will need to fix that. Hopefully you can extract the broken bolt.
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- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[Eric&Barb]

Agreed fix the important stuff first. Bump stops are not important if you keep loads in the bus well below a short ton of weight, and do not go extreme four wheeling.

Do not use an Easy-Out to try to remove that broken off RGB bolt. If it is stuck in there, it will just break off the EO, and things get nasty from there. Better to take the bus to a local muffler shop and have someone there weld a nut to the broken off bolt. Ask the welder to get it as hot as possible. Heat will cause the bolt remains to swell up crushing the rust in the threads into dust. Rust takes up more space than was originally between the RGB and the bolt, so that makes the bolt a pressed in fit. In turn that caused the bolt head to be broken off.

Do use a quality anti-seize in any and all threaded fasteners to avoid this in the future.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Insertcomedyname]

Thanks all for the advice and you are correct, I need to stop myself getting carried away. I have a habit of starting 100 things at once and before I know it I'll have missed the summer fun! You might have spotted the springs in the bolt photos. I have no seats or steering wheel now as I thought that would be another quick job.. luckily the steering was off just for the horn which turned out to be a loose wire so at least that's one easy job ticked off the list!!

[Eric&Barb]

Would see why that ground strap is on the rear of the transaxle instead of up front where it belongs.

While what you have is from S. America you should consider getting the original German Workshop Manual.

Pricey at first glance, but worth every cent. Search around online or VW swap meets to find a good used copy for less if need be.

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=book4
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Clara]

x2 on slow down on taking the bus apart.

The rubber bumps stops are optional, only in use on very bumpy roads/ and or with heavy loads. They were used as of IIRC mid 65, earlier buses did not even have them.
The nubs are welded and bolted to the axle tube, there are threads about repairing the nubs with a lug nut, do a search.

That's a normal amount of oil to fall out of the funky axle boots. replace the boots, then top up the tranny oil. tip: if its cool where you are, warm up the oil first, let it sit in a warm place overnight. Makes it easier to fill with that pump. And the stuff stinks, just saying. When you get it on you, you'll smell like it.

Missing or broken bolts on the spring plates to RGB is a danger.
You need all 4 properly torqued.

Missing or broken bolts on the spring plates to RGB is a danger.
You need all 4 properly torqued.

I use a dab of grease or anti-sneeze on the bolt threads. and where the bolts go through the shocks.
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The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/

[Eric&Barb]

Good RGB bolts info to read thru.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=590158&highlight=longer+rgb+bolts

With any stuck threaded fastener it is good practice to try turning in BOTH directions. Just like getting stuck in mud or snow it helps to go back and forth, the main thing is to get any movement. Additionally with a bolt head tightening at first ever so slightly helps to crush the rust into dust. Then keep working the bolt back and forth to get it looser and looser, and do add some oil into the area to get that down into the rusty threads. If one just cranks it quickly loose without caution, the bigger rust chunks can shove the bolt and hole threads more against each other on one side. That in turn causes a huge amount of friction between the metal parts and gall them together, in other words welding them in place. NASA is using friction stir welding technique that is generally speaking galling the two or more pieces of metal together and results in much stronger bonding than the older welding processes.



Link

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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Insertcomedyname]

Stubborn stub axle... Well it's the bearing not the axle. I just can't get the rascal out. I took off the reduction boxes to remove the broken stud and the stub axle bearing felt rough so I decided to refurb the reduction box. I made a tool out of box section that should be plenty strong enough to remove the bearing but the box is bending before the bearing is moving. Any advice appreciated! Thanks
Andy...

[Eric&Barb]

Bearing goes out the OTHER WAY.

Remove the RGB stub axle inner nut, slide the stub axle outward, and then you will see the large C-clip holding the bearing in place.

Get the Workshop manual ASAP before you muck something up.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Insertcomedyname]

Aaaahhhh! So I was pushing against a circlip! Doh.. 🤪

[Eric&Barb]

[hazetguy]

[BonTonRoulet]

You caught it early. Lucky for you the reduction box housing wasn't drilled, tapped and fitted with a larger Grade 8 bolt that really didn't tighten up too well.

As for the silly dog chew toy bump stop, you could have drilled a hole through the rubber horizontally and fitted it with a zip tie around the axle tube its such a passive piece of equipment.
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Never argue with an Idiot. They'll only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.