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Rhinoculips
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Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 918
Location: Keystone, Colorado
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 Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 6:29 pm Post subject: Dometic Fridge repair |
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Can't seem to find info on this problem.
In the midst of cleaning/fixing the Dometic, I noticed that blue cylindrical temp sensor for the fan is not secured to the fin very well. It's in-line on the yellow wire going to the fan. The soft aluminum ring that holds it in place is stretched and partially cracked.
Anyone have an idea of how I can secure that puppy back against the cooling fin? Should a conducting paste be used with some sort of fastening device? If so, can it be found at a FLAPS?
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MarkWard
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Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17255
Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:16 am Post subject: |
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I don't think it is that critical to be absolutely tight. Mine was sort of lightly attached. I tested mine while I had it out with a heat gun and I believe ambient heat is enough to activate it. You could bend up a new bracket from aluminum and sandwich it to the fin and the paste would not hurt either. I added a manual toggle switch so I can overide the temp switch when I want. I also added a computer fan to both the fins and to the city water oulet cover. This way I can better regulate the temps. The stock fan was dead and that was the reason for digging in to the fridge in the first place. Here is the shroud I fabbed up for the back. Not my idea, but copied from another member.
Here is the modified city water outlet as well. I am using a two way toggle to control one or both.
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Vanagon Nut
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Joined: February 08, 2008
Posts: 10385
Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:30 am Post subject: Re: Dometic Fridge repair |
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| Rhinoculips wrote: |
Anyone have an idea of how I can secure that puppy back against the cooling fin? Should a conducting paste be used with some sort of fastening device? If so, can it be found at a FLAPS?
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C clamp? 
Sorry.
How about a piece of wire? Wrap it around that puppy kinda like a figure 8? (screws included) Even a piece of solid copper wire though I don't know how the copper would react to the (aluminum?) on part over long term.
Thermal paste (stuff used on computer CPU to heat sink) should be available at Radio Shack. I think using any would be over kill and in some cases would inhibit proper contact (too much)
Hijack alert!
Mark:
Is that shroud making a positive difference? Sure looks good!
Neil.
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1988 West DIY 50º ABA
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MarkWard
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Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17255
Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 9:43 am Post subject: |
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Neil, unfortunately, I can't really say. Since the old fan was on it's way out, not sure how a good stock fan would have done. I can tell you this. While on a trip, the stock fan was squeeling. I tried to get some lube on it without removing the fridge. I pulled the city water outlet to look inside and within a minute the fan shut off. Just opening the side of the van made a huge difference.
You would be amazed at the heat that comes out the modified side vent now. I also super insulated the exterior panel behind the fridge. So with all the changes, the fridge is working better than ever. The computer fans are low amp, high volume, super quiet. Being able to manually control them is nice, but leaving the auto feature working is good for absent minded me.
edit: I also took the time to run the sink drain behind the wall panel to give more room under the sink. Again, not my idea but another members.
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Vanagon Nut
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Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:00 am Post subject: |
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| rsxsr wrote: |
Neil, unfortunately, I can't really say. Since the old fan was on it's way out, not sure how a good stock fan would have done. I can tell you this. While on a trip, the stock fan was squeeling. I tried to get some lube on it without removing the fridge. I pulled the city water outlet to look inside and within a minute the fan shut off. Just opening the side of the van made a huge difference.
You would be amazed at the heat that comes out the modified side vent now. I also super insulated the exterior panel behind the fridge. So with all the changes, the fridge is working better than ever. The computer fans are low amp, high volume, super quiet. Being able to manually control them is nice, but leaving the auto feature working is good for absent minded me.
edit: I also took the time to run the sink drain behind the wall panel to give more room under the sink. Again, not my idea but another members. |
Yes! The insulation helps. I did same with different material. And I know what you mean about amount of heat back there. On hotter days, I swear the temp of air being pushed out of my "City water" fan is hotter than ambient temps!
Neil.
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1988 West DIY 50º ABA
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Mulcheese
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 548
Location: Maple Grove, Mn
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:10 am Post subject: |
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At one point when I had the fridge out for something I had the same concern Rinoculips. My sensor was loose but after many years with that way the fridge fan always kicks on when needed.
Just as rsxsr has done I have replaced the fan with computer fan and added the fan in the water outlet that is wired into the other fan so they both come on at the same time and did some blocking off of the airflow into other compartments. I did not go as far as rsxsr and blocking it off since I have been know to camp when it is cold so I left the top open for heat.
One thing That I may do in the future is to add a switch so that I can control the external fan. At the moment I can pull the outlet, four screws, and unlpug the fan.
I also added a fan in the fridge on top of the cooling fins to circulate the cold air. This one is connected with a toggle so that I am able to control it. I got all my fans for free from a recycling shop.
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Farf
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Joined: July 12, 2009
Posts: 463
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 10:25 am Post subject: |
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I'm down in Salida and have a Domestic Fridge that is no longer in use. I know it worked well on propane (when I could get the pilot to light) and 110 VAC. Never tried to operate it on !2 VDC. You are welcome to come down and get the whole thing or I can send you the sensor clip. The shelves, door shelf etc. are in pretty good shape. Might even have the ice cube trays somewhere. Let me know...
Mike |
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MayorMcCheese
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Joined: October 07, 2009
Posts: 671
Location: Lancaster PA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Mine is out and sitting right in front of me, my temp sensor is also kind of loose. |
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Salem7
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Joined: January 24, 2010
Posts: 207
Location: Washington County, New York
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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Mine is sitting on some saw horses right now. My switch is loose too. One of the terminal ends broke off the thermoswitch and I soldered it back on. I am getting ready to modify to an electronic ignitor, put in a Go Westy check valve kit and install a new gas jet and thermocouple(I have all the parts). That along with the upgraded LED that I plan to do! After that it better be super reliable!
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Rhinoculips
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Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 918
Location: Keystone, Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2012 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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Well this is what I came up with. I took one of those hose clamps used to mount them against a surface and bent/shaped it to sandwich it against the fin. I left the rubber on it as I assumed the two terminals on the sensor should not be bridged by the custom strap(which would take away the functionality of the sensor switch) Testing has not been done yet, but I suspect it'll work.
Thanks for the responses and offer.
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Rhinoculips
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Joined: August 08, 2005
Posts: 918
Location: Keystone, Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 11:23 am Post subject: |
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| Salem7 wrote: |
| I am getting ready to modify to an electronic ignitor, put in a Go Westy check valve kit |
If you havent already, there's no need to buy a GoWesty kit. It easy to make a kit yourself for a third the price. All you need is a vacuum check valve, hose to fit both ends of it, an o-ring to fit tightly around the shaft (between the two metal disks) on the plunger. FLAPS will have all you need. Then drill the pumps output and the check valve's input with a 9/64" drill bit. This will allow more air to be pumped through. Just be careful when drilling out the check valve. You go to far and you'll puncture the diaphragm, if you don't drill far enough you don't get the added benifit. This is what I did and it works beautifully. I'll try to post a pic tonight.
I would like to hear more about your electronic igniter mod. Please post!
Anyway, I have the thermal couple sensor mounted, the propane system cleaned and working, the muffin fan installed and tested, the air pump modified and plunging air nicely. Guess its time to re-install.
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“May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.” - Edward Abbey
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Salem7
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Joined: January 24, 2010
Posts: 207
Location: Washington County, New York
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| Posted: Thu Apr 26, 2012 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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I have had the kit for a while-already installed it. I will take pictures and post about the electronic ignition mod I have in the works.
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noganav
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Joined: January 06, 2006
Posts: 1236
Location: San Diego CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 11:27 am Post subject: |
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| I'd be interested in seeing this mod too. The replacement from GW is pretty expensive. Anyone know of an alternative electronic piezo ignition that works for the 90-91 fridges? |
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Salem7
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Joined: January 24, 2010
Posts: 207
Location: Washington County, New York
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 12:03 pm Post subject: piezoelectric |
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I have postponed doing this mod. I went over the fridge and installed the Gowesty air pump modification, thermocouple and new burner tip. Before I went any further I tested things out and the fridge lights on the first or second try every time so I didn't go any further. Fridge still lights very reliably on the stock piezoelectric set up.
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1982 Westfalia 1.6NA diesel. Converted to Turbo 1.6 and sold.
1995 Eurovan Camper |
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BillWYellowstone
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Joined: July 16, 2011
Posts: 767
Location: Yellowstone NP
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 12:27 pm Post subject: |
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Mine was doing pretty well last Fall, but this year no go. Haven't tried it a lot, but no joy there.
Anyone have the little threaded brass plug or a source? Lost mine last year.
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Otmar
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Joined: May 06, 2006
Posts: 71
Location: Corvallis, Oregon, USA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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| noganav wrote: |
| Anyone know of an alternative electronic piezo ignition that works for the 90-91 fridges? |
I've bought one that I tested on the bench, but not yet on the fridge. I'm planning to put it in my '82.
You can find it by using Google shopping search for 2931132019
I bench tested current draw and it is very low when the flame is lit, under 0.1mA. Peak current when sparking is maybe 50mA and average when sparking is 10mA.
Here are some pictures:
Original 1990 unit:
Replacement I got for $35 shipped and the switch I plan to use:
And just for future reference a spiders nest in the mixing tube of one of the fridges we fixed at Mudfest this year. This is a very common problem when the fridge does not light but occasionally makes a "poof" when trying to light it:
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Tesfalia: https://twitter.com/tesfalia
The '87 Westie for the mean time,
& Dad's old 1965 Transporter.
Last edited by Otmar on Fri Jul 06, 2012 2:46 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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noganav
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Joined: January 06, 2006
Posts: 1236
Location: San Diego CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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| Awesome, thanks very much for posting this! I may get one to play around with and see if it can replace the function of the original. |
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Otmar
Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2006
Posts: 71
Location: Corvallis, Oregon, USA
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| Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 11:35 pm Post subject: Electronic Ignitor for Westfalia Dometic Fridge |
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| Otmar wrote: |
I've bought one that I tested on the bench, but not yet on the fridge. I'm planning to put it in my '82.
You can find it by using Google shopping search for 2931132019 |
I've installed the ignitor and figured I'd play with my new iPad and try making an educational video that covers my fan installation as well as the ignitor.
Please tell me what you think? Are videos better than text and pictures?
Link
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-Otmar
Tesfalia: https://twitter.com/tesfalia
The '87 Westie for the mean time,
& Dad's old 1965 Transporter. |
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kamzcab86
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Joined: July 26, 2008
Posts: 7957
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 1:05 am Post subject: Re: Electronic Ignitor for Westfalia Dometic Fridge |
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| Otmar wrote: |
Please tell me what you think? Are videos better than text and pictures? |
Probably depends on the individual, so the answer would be "best to have both". This harkens back to our school days when we learned that there are spatial learners, visual learners, etc. My personal preference is text with photos so I can have the instructions right there in front of me in the garage; needing a laptop and having to rewind videos repeatedly is counterproductive while doing the project. But watching the video to get an overview of the job would give me an idea of what to expect.
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rcook52459
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Location: PORTLAND ORE
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| Posted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 4:19 am Post subject: |
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thanks for posting video.easier for me to understand.not the greatest education or just getting old.
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