Clutch pedal no pressure! FIXED!

[boogerweld]

When leaving a local parking lot, pressed clutch pedal. Heard a snap and lost pedal pressure. Wouldn't come out of gear. Assumed snapped cable or broken clevis. Upon inspection found cable and clevis intact. Pedal pulls shift arm all the way back. Proceeded to pull engine back a little to check throwout bearing or fork, both are good. Now it is dark out and not enough time to pull engine out rest of the way. Is it probable that the pressure plate took a dump just like that? It's a '75 with a 215mm clutch.

[Green70]

I had a similar thing happen and it was the throw-out bearing popping off the fork. The fork then wore a grove in the pressure plate fingers, but not before opening up the notch on the fork so that it had to be replaced too.

Yeah, sounds like the PP might have crapped out on you. Did you double check the spring on the clutch arm is still in place? I think an engine pull is in your future.

[boogerweld]

Yeah, spring is still on the arm. I'll get up good and early and pull the engine to get @ pressure plate. It's funny, we are doing a 4500 mile road trip next week and I got all the extra parts one might need, including clutch cable. I'm stoked that this happened 2 blocks from my driveway versus 25 miles east of Wichita. Now just gotta find a local source for a 215mm clutch kit.

[busdaddy]

I assume you've already changed the cable because just looking at the clevis won't detect a broken strand or 10 somewhere in between the front and back.
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[boogerweld]

Clutch cable changed about 6 months ago.

[Wildthings]

[busdaddy]

[germansupplyscott]

do remove the cable before you go any farther, they can and often do fray apart inside the bowden tube and you don't see the damage.

i had a broken clutch lever that sounded like your problem. i actually pulled the engine before finding the issue.

the clutch lever can split and you lose all your clutch, and it seems like it's something inside, but the it's just the lever that can be repaired without pulling anything.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4965810&highlight=clutch#4965810
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[boogerweld]

I'm an idiot. Ya' know I looked @ both cable ends and also verified cable was engaging arm. Dropped engine @ 6 am this morning only to see that pressure plate was perfectly fine. Pulled damn cable out and just as you guys said...........fraid and hangin' by a thread. So......replaced cable, put the engine back in, took a shower, got online and noticed all you guys telling me to pull the cable out. I'm going back to bed. Have a nice day.

[Millennium Falcon]

Glad I found this post. I am having the same issue, so now I will definitely, definitely pull the cable first and check it with my new one before jumping into an engine/tranny drop. Thanks.
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[Tom Powell]

Clutch cables break in cold weather, but can be replaced even when lying on ice under the camper. Driving the leftside wheels onto a curb makes the job easier. Clutch cables come in many lengths, some of which are very close to being correct.

Aloha
tp

[udidwht]

[69vwcarl]

Hey guys Figured I would post up some pictures and info that might help a new guy or someone who has never had to do a clutch cable swap in a bay window. I know this site was a huge help back when i first got into VWs. Anyways here goes.

Picked up this 70 Westy a few weeks ago. Been working out a few small issues one was a VERY stiff feeling clutch...

I picked up a cable and decided to see what was going on. Unhooked the wing nut at the rear on transaxle. Took off "boden" tube and removed the pedal assembly up front removing the 13mm bolts. Pulled cable and sure enough it was FRAYED OUT!!!!!

after tearing everything apart and cleaning it all up with a wire wheel i sprayed a little back paint on the major items and got prepped for re assembly

the "clevis pin" holder was wore very thin on the outer edge from years of use. Because it was Saturday evening and I have to drive to work in this Bus on Monday i decided to try to fix the issue i carefully welded both sides and the top to add material and then cleaned it up with a flap disc.

everything was lubricated and re assembled

new cable was put on and remember the cotter pin on the "clevis pin"

I used some tape on the threaded ends of the new clutch cable so it didn't get all nasty and pushed the cable through the tube from the front of the bus wiggled the pedal assembly back into place and tightened the (2) 13mm bolts and washers.

moving to the rear slide cable back through "boden" tube remove tape and put back up into the clutch arm replace wing nut and tighten till the clutch pedal has around an inch of free play when pushed by hand from its resting point. All bolts were cleaned and coated with "never seize" so if you have to get back in there some time its easier.

That was about it.. took the bus for a drive and instantly noticed the pedal feels much better.. hope this can help someone out down the road.
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