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Wood floor is in...and done!
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jadppe
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 8:55 am    Post subject: Wood floor is in...and done! Reply with quote

OK, I put in my wood floor. My dad had this leftover after redoing part of his house so free is good. Also, it matches pretty good. It's Cherry hardwood which has some orange in it that matches my Panama Brown.

Wanted to pick yer guys brains tho...

Here's the floor. Nothing is glued or fastened in yet. I put down this sound deadening stuff from HD it's a fiberboard and only 10 bucks for a 4x8 sheet. Definitely noticed a difference in cabin noise and radio sounds much better.
Question: Should I put some kind of waterproof barrier between the wood and the subfloor? and between the subfloor and the metal? That fiberboard looks like it could absorb lots of fluid.
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Question: What should I do along this edge? I was thinking just trimming the old panel to fit but I dunno what would hold the panel at the bottom. Trim?
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Question: I would dig some storage space under the seats. Thinking about fabricating a cabinet under there....suggestions? pics?
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Question: What about the vent that comes out between the 2 front seats? It's about half blocked. Should I just put a cap over it? or leave it open?

Thanx, Josh
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Last edited by jadppe on Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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wheelhorse
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may already be sealed. I just installed a fiberboard 'wood' floor in my bus as well. It came from our basement when it flooded. If it's a good wood kit, it should be as simple as glueing it together. Of course, a good coat of polyurethane for floors wouldn't hurt. BEWARE, if it gets wet underneith the wood (you spill lots of water, or your basement floods) it curls up and ruins your floor.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great, not too sure about that underlay though, looks like it would hold water forever.

Consider trimming the left edge a hair short of the interior panel so you can lift the floor up easily incase it needs to dry out.
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twinfalls
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2008 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you need more trimming.
About home floors, the rule is 1/4 " space at ( concrete ) walls.
Otherwise you might get bulging from temperature and humidity variations.

I recently worked on my VW Golf 2 floor.
VW uses rock wool in 20 mm thickness ( 3/4" ) under the floor mats.
I replaced some with 15 mm rock wool home insulation. This is a safety approved material.
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jadppe
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:58 pm    Post subject: Wood Floor is Done! Reply with quote

Here's what I ended up doing...
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I did one long board on the drivers side wall. Probably should have done one long one on the front edge of the floor but it looks decent.

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Cut a piece of plywood and wedged it between the bench and the flooring then put some shims between the bench supports and the plywood to make it all snug. Nothing was nailed or glued down for easy removal.

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This edge is held in by corner molding that can be easily removed for sweeping and floor removal. The molding spans the length of the sliding door opening.
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bmartinek
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhh tis' the season.

I am hoping to do the same thing to mine this month while the wife is out of town. Looks good man. I would definately fabricate a cover for the bench seat IMHO.

Keep up the good work!
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itlives
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 08, 2008 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did mine in solid 3/4"bamboo. I ran the wood the other way and put the side panel in first.

That's a good fix at the door. I like it. I still need to do it.
Here's mine
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And, finished
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BensBlueBus
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

when doing the wood floor in a 78 westy is it better to just butt it up to the edge of the cabinet or completely R&I then reinstall over the wood floor?

What is the prefered combo of underlayments? I was thinking like a dynomat style sound deadner a hardboard layer, then that thin foam they make to put under the floor then the "wood" I am using Ikea pergo style
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Cptn. Calzone
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 10:07 am    Post subject: wood floor Reply with quote

The door area needs a threshold.You can purchase an aluminum 90deg. bent one that will fit over the hardwood and hide/protect the vertical edge of plywood and the flooring itsef.Screw it down with 1/2 stainless and your'e done.The floor looks great by the way!
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here`s my plan

1. aluminum foil type insulation
2.plastic vapor barrier
3.10mm rock wall
4.wood flooring


in that order.

what do you guys think?
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jah_B
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rock wall? like sheet rock? will you be putting in a crawl space, or a full basement? (later) ...oh...oh...I get it. silly me. I was thinking when I read that. Yeah......THICK
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Last edited by jah_B on Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:12 pm; edited 3 times in total
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east_coast_beat
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm more of a carpet man myself. Shag, to be precise. Laughing
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TheTominator
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put a Z-bed in where that sofa is now. Frame under the bottom front. Put speakers in the framing. That space then becomes accessible, a storage area behind the speakers. Go camping!
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zxylon
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got both wood and shag floor!!! About to redo the wood though. I want a darker color to match the inside changes.
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fisheggs
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I still need to finish the edges but

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I also cover it with this carpet. Which I can take out and shake off. Vacuuming it does nothing.

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hurst_dave
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 11:30 pm    Post subject: where'd you get that carpet fisheggs? Reply with quote

Hey Fisheggs, where did you get that black carpet and did you have to cut it to fit your floor plan? If you did cut it, does it fray much? I want to get a rubber-backed rug to put over the factory carpet so I can hose it off and not have to worry about sap/jelly/etc, yours looks like it would work great.

Thanks,
-Dave
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fisheggs
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The carpet was at Canaidian tire for like $70. It is rubber backed so it doesn't slide or fray. It also came with enough to carpet the front cab section, between the seats and for a large mat to put on the ground in front of door.

I just used my old carpet to trace the new ones
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visibleink
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

theizzardking wrote:
here`s my plan

1. aluminum foil type insulation
2.plastic vapor barrier
3.10mm rock wall
4.wood flooring


in that order.

what do you guys think?


Sounds thick.
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Rubber Duck
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fisheggs wrote:
The carpet was at Canaidian tire for like $70. It is rubber backed so it doesn't slide or fray. It also came with enough to carpet the front cab section, between the seats and for a large mat to put on the ground in front of door.

I just used my old carpet to trace the new ones


Hey that's a great idea fisheggs! One big carpet enough to cover the front section as well as the back? Do you mind sharing your template?
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fisheggs
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure we are thinking the same thing. I just took out the old carpet. Put it up the new carpet. and cut. Nothing rocket science about it. The reason I did it this way is so when it gets all dirty and sandy. You can just take it out and shake it. A vacuum cannot get as much as a good old fashioned shake
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