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J tubes shields aka industrial tins question
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1961bluebug
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 2:55 pm    Post subject: J tubes shields aka industrial tins question Reply with quote

Hi there. I´m trying to retain most of original VW tin with my 2276 build. Today I fitted lower sled tins, I had to trim them for a Sidewinder header which don´t clear them unfortunately.

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I have a set of original industrial tins in my stash that were used to shield J tubes from heads on an early european VW 181/Thing and later was used on VW Type 126 industrial engines.

Unfortunately these tins also don´t fit because the header is narrower than it should be. My question is, is it better to leave them off completely? I can drill a set of new holes to my lower sled tins and fit them as pictured but it probably defeats their purpose a bit:

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from underside, shows that ends of pushrod tubes are exposed to heat. Maybe I can widen that portion of industrial shields so all length of pushrod tubes will be protected from heat?

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Thank you for suggestions.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a crapshoot.

I'd try to fabricate my own that reach to the end of the head. Yuo just need a metal break and snips.
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1961bluebug
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not have an access to metal bender, but maye I can just weld a 1-1 1/2" wide stripe of metal to the original industrial tin for the same result?

I really don´t like tha way I will have to bolt them to the sled tins but the idea of protecting the head from the exhaust heat seems fully logical to me.

Thank you!
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SkrapMetal
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's nice to see someone going through the trouble of shielding the heat rather than just slapping it together. Nice job.
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Ian Godfrey
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same issue, so I sectioned the sleds to bring the bolt holes in towards the case and welded on a strip of metal to the industrial tins to meet the heads as you suggest. Mine are off being ceramic coated to further lower the heat transfer. I also made a new thermostat bracket to fit that in as well. I had to extend and shape the shutter rod to work. I was able to take a lot less off the 3/4 side which helped with fitting the thermostat. Keep at it.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or just get a header that fits.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
Or just get a header that fits.


And where is the fun in that!? Smile

Alex
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gonebuggy wrote:
Glenn wrote:
Or just get a header that fits.


And where is the fun in that!? Smile

Alex

More time to drink beer. Wink
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gonebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
gonebuggy wrote:
Glenn wrote:
Or just get a header that fits.


And where is the fun in that!? Smile

Alex

More time to drink beer. Wink


Now THAT, I can find the fun in! Wink

Alex
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gonebuggy
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using some pieces of square/rectangle steel bar, some clamps a hammer and some wood. You can band off some pretty decent long bends with some care and creativity. Cereal box card makes great template material for this type of stuff.

Alex
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germansupplyscott
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i will try to post photos tomorrow, but i have just completed an engine with an a1 sidewinder and we used those same industrial tins and german sleds. we had to do quite a bit of modification to make everything fit including narrowing the sleds. some slight mods to the industrial tins also but minor. it's worth the effort of making the modifications because you need the tin to be as complete as possible.
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1961bluebug
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

germansupplyscott wrote:
i will try to post photos tomorrow, but i have just completed an engine with an a1 sidewinder and we used those same industrial tins and german sleds. we had to do quite a bit of modification to make everything fit including narrowing the sleds. some slight mods to the industrial tins also but minor. it's worth the effort of making the modifications because you need the tin to be as complete as possible.


Glenn, I knew it is coming Wink When I was in proccess of shopping parts I inquired Bergs for their 1 5/8 header and they were out of stock with no plan of making new batch. So I had to look elsewhere Sad

Scott, pics would be great for inspiration. My exhaust is CB Sidewinder version so the dimensions will vary. Thanks!
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tstracy39
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 3:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a pair of shields using tinsnips, a vice and a claw hammer in about an hour and a half, including the time it took to paint them. I used a piece of thin cardboard to make a template first, then drew the outline on steel sheet, cut them out and bent them into shape. They're held in place against the cylinder heads by the j-tubes and attached to the lower tin where the heater boxes are normally connected. They don't look like much, but they do the job.
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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this doesn't help now, but those tins DO fit with the J-tube-optioned Sidewinder.

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Viande
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sigurd wrote:
I know this doesn't help now, but those tins DO fit with the J-tube-optioned Sidewinder.

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Same system I use on my builds. The A-1 pictured also allows for the thermostat which others do not.
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Sigurd
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 14, 2009 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Berg does too. It's just not the only one... Wink
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Viande wrote:
Same system I use on my builds. The A-1 pictured also allows for the thermostat which others do not.


that's really good to know about the t-stat. i had to make significant mods to the tstat bracket to run it with our setup of A1 sidewinder, stock sleds and industrial j-tube tins.

i had to cut the bracket and move the stat a lot closer to the crankcase (~1/4" or even a bit more iirc), i think i had to bend the pushrod for the stat also, and remove that little baffle in the cylinder head. it was lots of work, and we wanted all the work to sort of 'disappear' so it was done with a lot of care, but we had to have both the complete tin setup and the stat.

pics later today for sure, we have the car in our shop and we're doing some work on it so it will be up in the air.
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1961bluebug
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2009 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

made some small progress today. I started with drivers side because it is more complicated. I had to trim the sled tin because it interfered with big turn of tubing from 4th cylinder. That means the industrial tin had to be shortened for a little bit too.

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Then I moved the industrial tin toward the engine so it wont interfere with number 3 J-tube and trimmed a 1/2 inch stripe of tin from the sled tin and made new holes to attach the industrial tin.

Last picture shows how much metal will be added to the industrial tin so it will end under the head.

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1961bluebug
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost no progress because I´m busy and I have to travel to access the welding machine.

Overall view of narrowed lower tins with industrial tins which will be widened later mounted.

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Last edited by 1961bluebug on Tue Jul 28, 2009 1:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2009 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gonebuggy wrote:
Using some pieces of square/rectangle steel bar, some clamps a hammer and some wood. You can band off some pretty decent long bends with some care and creativity. Cereal box card makes great template material for this type of stuff.

Alex

Absolutely------I use a coulpe of 2x2x3/8" angle iron. For short bends I use my bench vise and for long bends I use your method of angles and clamps.
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