Blinky Coolant Light - 6 seconds, sometimes longer?

[mariusstrom]

I know the blinking coolant light is supposed to come on for 6 seconds when Ignition goes to On, and mine does...

... but sometimes it stays on for 10 seconds. 15 seconds.

Randomly.

Mostly 6 seconds, though.

Bad sensor? Other gremlins? Coolant levels seem correct (pressure tank may have a 1/4" or so headspace, overflow tank just below the max line), pressure cap is a month old.
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Marius Strom Otto: 1988 Vanagon Syncro Westy Camper
[SOLD] Felix: 1967 Deluxe Beetle

[Vanagon Nut]

Check if sensor probes (Does the WBX have probes?) are dirty or connector hinky. There should be more info here in the archives. If nothing else pans out.....

I had read that the capacitor in the gauge can go hinky. Likely that's been discussed here but I read of this over on the Vanagon list, this was discussed in the last month or 2. Vanagon list archives:

http://gerry.vanagon.com/cgi-bin/wa.exe?S1=vanagon

After running my conversion for some time, I finally installed the WBX coolant low system and gauge. It worked fine; ign. on, light flashed, start it, light would go out after a few seconds. Yah mine "suddenly" takes way longer for light to go off engine cold/running. Unlike yours though, mine consistently does this.

The coolant level control module is new, expansion tank/sensor prongs, coolant ~ 3 YO fairly low miles. In my case, I would suspect the WBX (used) gauge.

Running a Jetta engine + expansion tank but the rest is a stock '85 1.9 cooling system.
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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
(VW Gas I4)

1988 Westy DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[Williamtaylor33]

How old is your battery? On every watercooled vanagon i've had I've noticed that when the red light blinks longer than usual or is acting strange it's time for a new battery. I think maybe when there's low voltage it makes the light blink longer than usual...
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89 Bostig powered syncro westy

[mariusstrom]

[Williamtaylor33]

Remember this is not saying you shouldnt check the obvious when mr. blinkly starts acting up.
But low voltage can cause the small issue your having. I've found low voltage will make it blink.
It makes sense that it will blink longer than usual...The time it takes for the alternator to kick the voltage back up to normal.
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89 Bostig powered syncro westy

[DAIZEE]

yes I have that problem. All levels correct. Have a water temp gauge now so I don't worry about it anymore. I check it at least once a week or before a long trip (the fluids). My either blinks reg, blinks all the time or blinks none of the time. It's in the old harness but with a water temp gauge I am able to monitor it in thhe cockpit!
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'09 2.5L Jetta 5 cylinder, 5 spd, super turbo, see thread in H2O Cooled Jetta, etc...
83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 98 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (sold)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

[randywebb]

Autozone, etc. will load test your battery for free
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1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans.

[tii]

I had this gremlin. New level sensor in expansion tank, new level relay in fuse box, blinky blinky blinky.... grrrr.

I also had the temp needle running way above the led, and climbing high during idle in traffic etc.

Very scared of overheating. Bought a infrared temperature gun. Tested and tested, engine was running within specs, radiator was uniformly warm, rad fad switched in/out like clockworks.

Installed oil temp and pressure gauges. Oil temp well within specs, oil pressure good.

Took dash apart to test/replace temp gauge. Previous owner had been up to something because all the plastic was broken that holds the temp gauge in place. Sigh... plastic welded the gauge housing together and remounted the gauge, re-fit the blue plastic wire substrate, re-seated all the nuts that bind the wire substrate to the gauge posts/terminals.

Voila! blinky blinky led works perfect, every time. Flashes briefly on startup, goes out, stays out, and if you pull the plug off the level sensor after it goes it out.. it starts flashing, just like it's sposed to.

Bought two other temp sensors, tested them both in boiling water, using the infrared temperature gun and a resistance ohm meter. I selected the one that read the most resistance at that temp, put that one in. My temp needle now sits at lower edge of the LED at operating temperature.

So, for all the LED monster fighters, I'd take the time to verify/re-seat the nuts that tie the temperature gauge posts/terminals to the blue wiring circuit sheet in the instrument panel cluster as part of the first round diagnostics.

[Vanagon Nut]