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Quality of rebuilt early steering boxes
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 6:29 am    Post subject: Quality of rebuilt early steering boxes Reply with quote

Hello -

I recently bought a rebuilt steering box for my '71 and curious about others who have purchased rebuild boxes. Mine came from an online vendor who said it was a Bus Boys rebuild. No one else seemed to have a rebuilt box to ship. Bus Boys, Wolfgang, and more all said they were out of rebuildable cores.

My new box came and right away I could feel a degree or two of play in the box. That's play from input shaft to output shaft, not axial or rotational play in the output shaft. Of course, then when I installed the box (the rest of my front end is new) I still have 1/2" play in the steering wheel.

So I'm curious how others have felt about their rebuilt steering box. I know Bentley says 1/2" of steering wheel play is spec but I am still a little disappointed...


Thanks!
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aryue
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My rebuilt steering box from Bus Boys was installed in 2006. No real issues, yet.

After 6 years and 30K, plus miles - it dribbles a bit of gear oil from the seal. It took less than a 60cc syringe full of 90W to top in March. 30 to 40cc leakage in that time isn't too bad.

I hope yours works out as well.

- Andrew in Austin, TX -
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 5:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bump - anyone else buy a rebuilt early box?
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccpalmer wrote:
I could feel a degree or two of play in the box. That's play from input shaft to output shaft, not axial or rotational play in the output shaft. Of course, then when I installed the box (the rest of my front end is new) I still have 1/2" play in the steering wheel.

I'm enjoying following you diligence in your steering system rebuild Chris.

A few years ago we bought a rebuilt box (whatever that really means) for the gals bus and not really remembering in detail except the steering issue was resolved and we moved on to the next resto topic. I drove it on a 1,000 mile interstate trip and driving a near overall perfect bus was a total joy. It's what got me motivated to really take mine seriously. But what I do remember is that it still was two handed serious driving when running along with all the semi's. It was not like a Corvette.

A couple thoughts about your new box. You say no radial or axial play but isn't that the only type of play it could have? If you rigidly secured it in a big vise and solidly restricted the pitman arm from any sort of movement, and then rocked the input shaft with something like a bar bolted to the input shaft, what kind of slop would you feel? Considering all the various many components inside you couldn't expect it not to have any slop or backlash. I checked my bus front wheel bearings yesterday and there was the correct tad amount of looseness. You've got 4 sets of ball bearings in the box and with totally zero clearance or preloaded they would destroy.

Something I've been cautious of is turing the steering wheel while totally stopped. It takes a lot of force to turn the wheels regardless of slop and overcome ground surface contact. Whether on asphalt, concrete, gravel or whatever, that is one big bunch of load to subject the box to. Steering with rolling tires doesn't require overcoming that ground contact friction. I really try to avoid turning the steering while stationary since that big load on the box internals is bound to really stress them to the limit. Steering slop while moving has to be much less than slop stationary.

Another thing is that after the box has been used a bit after initial assembly and "settled in" it might be possible to readjust it and take a tad of slop out of it. but going tighter on the adjustment might harm it. Damage or even normal wear would happen if either the components were too tight against themselves or too loose and banging totether.

Also critical is the draglink adjustment to be sure the wheels are exactly strainght ahead when the worm and peg are exactly at their most snug contact point. Even getting that adjustment to the closest single thread pitch adjustment might not be the most perfect.

I did every single item on my steering system except for a new box. And there is the total accumulation of a small bit of slop from every single component. That accumulation is big but all items do require some limited amount of clearance. Probably the greatest single amount on mine is the new relay lever center pin both in the bushings and up and down. It's not the most wonderful design since there is no way to adjust out unnecessary clearances.

Chris, when someone gently rocks the steering back and forth while you firmly press your finger against the pitman arm and the box snout at the same time do you feel movement? That might indicate some slop within the box between the bore in the snout and the output shaft. And if someone rocks the steering wheel so gently that you don't detect any movement against your finger how much can they move the wheel?


Andy, if you topped off your box it is over filled. Which seal is it leaking from?
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:
You say no radial or axial play but isn't that the only type of play it could have?


What I mean is that there is no apparent play on the output shaft... my old box's output shaft had a lot of axial play.

The play is from the input shaft to the output shaft - basically in the worm system I assume. When I first got the box I could easily turn the input shaft a few degrees without any movement of the output shaft. I have to assume it's just wear in the worm system that doesn't get corrected in a "rebuild"? Same thing now that it's hooked up - I can turn the steering wheel 1/2"-3/4" without any movement of the drop arm.


I did center my drag link and center the box to the wheels. My plan is to get a thousand miles on the box and re-adjust and see how it is. I guess I'm wondering if this is as good as rebuilds get or if they vary in quality due to the quality of the core.

My center pin/bushings are 3-4 years old now and I didn't get the Febi kit; so that will be next project but like I say I can see the slop right at the steering box.


Oh - and I'll admit I just filled my box up to the top hole with hypoid... and now I just checked my bottle and I used 12 ozs to fill the box - guess I need to take out a couple ozs...
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2012 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

since this is a rebuilt box I would call the vendor and discuss it with them. There should be almost no freeplay at center in the box. Off to each side there is play. That is by design to keep you from crashing when your steering locks if it was loose in the center and tighter to the outsides. In the 20's steering boxes were made with even play all through. Then as they wore the center would get loose and someone would adjust them to where the center was respectable. That was fine until someone made a really hard turn one day and got into an unworn part of the gear where it would be tighter and the gearbox would lock in the turn with predictable results.

Also the early boxes use a peg design that is not in the later boxes. Read up again on the early box in Bentley.


Last edited by SGKent on Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good idea to call Bus Boys and see what they say. I was curious to hear what others have to say about their rebuilt boxes... surprised there aren't more reports. With all the talk about crosswinds and semis I would think more people would have replaced their boxes...?

I did go look at things again underneath. I did find that my steering box was not perfectly centered. Guess my input shaft dust cover/center pointer moved a bit during installation. After fixing that my steering tightened a tiny bit but not much. Still seem to have 1/2" play at all points on my box. Maybe 3/8" at the centerpoint.

Also removed 2.5oz fluid from my box - a baby snot sucker worked great!

I'll be taking my old box apart soon to see what's inside for myself.
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Kirk
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm suprised that no one sells a kit to rebuild them yourself. Seems fairly simple, at least the replacing the seals and such.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:


Andy, if you topped off your box it is over filled. Which seal is it leaking from?


I've got to get out back and check sometime next week. After working a six day week, I'm headed out on a Sunday morning drive.

- Andrew in Austin, TX -
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kirk wrote:
I'm suprised that no one sells a kit to rebuild them yourself. Seems fairly simple, at least the replacing the seals and such.


Kirk, Chris and I had discussed this previouosly. The critical parts are not available new. I don't see any way a bad worm can be repaired or refurbished. It is an extremely complex item and the one that gets damaged by wear, poor lube, or abuse from bad adjustments.. So used good ones are real valuable. Probably all the bearing balls are available but the original ones are probably good. Evidently you can get seals but if you dont fill it above spec level the old seals might not be leaking. The cover can leak. But it can also be put back together so that it doesn't leak.
Us early steering box folks probably will end up needing to find a way to do a nice conversion to using the late available boxes.
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ccpalmer
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Desertbusman wrote:

Us early steering box folks probably will end up needing to find a way to do a nice conversion to using the late available boxes.


Sounds like it. All the rebuild houses say they can't find rebuildable cores.

I think I read that late boxes can be retrofitted with new holes and hole supports in the frame. Sounds pretty easy...
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccpalmer wrote:

I'll be taking my old box apart soon to see what's inside for myself.




i can save you the trouble if you want. i have been inside a "rebuilt" box. what a joke. if i get a minute today i'll grab some pix. it's too nice out and i plan on running a couple pounds of nitrous through the jetta today Evil or Very Mad
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

skills@eurocarsplus wrote:
ccpalmer wrote:

I'll be taking my old box apart soon to see what's inside for myself.




i can save you the trouble if you want. i have been inside a "rebuilt" box. what a joke. if i get a minute today i'll grab some pix. it's too nice out and i plan on running a couple pounds of nitrous through the jetta today Evil or Very Mad


Guess my 25 year dream of owning a tight steering box will have to wait... myself I will be using my Bus as a van (gasp!) to haul some furniture.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
since this is a rebuilt box I would call the vendor and discuss it with them. There should be almost no freeplay at center in the box. Off to each side there is play. That is by design to keep you from crashing when your steering locks if it was loose in the center and tighter to the outsides. In the 20's steering boxes were made with even play all through. Then as they wore the center would get loose and someone would adjust them to where the center was respectable. That was fine until someone made a really hard turn one day and got into an unworn part of the gear where it would be tighter and the gearbox would lock in the turn with predictable results.

Also the early boxes use a ball design that is not in the later boxes. Read up again on the early box in Bentley.


What do you mean by ball? Do you mean ball pinion in dished knuckle? The type 4's use that type of box and its common on many other cars....as distinguished from the worm and sector or worm and peg type of steering the busses have.
Its very smooth and very long lasting but its main worm is kept suspended by a recirculating ball rack. Ray
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as promised


you can see the lower cover to the right, but a plain old washer was what the "rebuilt" steering box used to take up the slop

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


more rebuilt goodness

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


you can see the arm was all galled up. this end has no bushing. the housing was just as bad


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


i will admit, i washed off all the paint, popped it open saw what a joke it was and it did sit under a bench for a while. some of the rust on the guts was there, and some is the result of hiding under a bench


i would like to also point out that the bearings on the worm were each missing 1 ball. awesome!
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my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese.......
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most VW enthusiasts are stuck in 80's price land.

Jake Raby wrote:
Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public.

Brian wrote:
Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a beauty Skills Laughing Do you know who rebuilt it?

Years ago here we talked about the output shaft wear like your picture shows and the corresponding housing snout bore wear. The shaft could be precision ground to a good new surface. The housing could be bored out and a sleeve put in. Some precision machine work and that portion would be wonderful. From what I concluded it's the shaft to snout slop that causes the clank. And only a couple thousandths wear on the shaft and housing bore will do it.

I told Chris about the rebuilt box we put in the gals bus that was a good one. But forgot to mention how that box came about. We bought a rebuilt from CIP and it looked nice with new paint, Put it in (set it all up the right way), headed out, made a turn from the drive way and the box locked up. As solid as if it had been welded up. If it hadn't locked up then it might have waited to kill us on the highway. CIP said it must have been installed wrong. That was BS and I know box internal workings, parts, adjustments and proper steering setup. CIP said send it back so they could inspect it but I wanted to pull the cover and really see what was majorly screwed up. It took forever to get it from them in the first place and it was the gals driver so we needed a working steering box. They said if I even touched it the warantee would be voided. So after at least 2 weeks of lies, bs, and excuses from various people at CIP we finally got another one from another rebuilder. No way in hell will I do business with CIP again, They are crooks. And I've probably posted quite a few times in the years since about killer steering boxes and repainted junkyard junk boxes sold as rebuilts.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have no idea who hacked er....rebuilt it. it came with a bus i bought for parts. if i remember correctly, it was in a generic white box (like a brake caliper would come in) no markings that you would expect, like a date code or a "CORE MUST BE RETURNED IN THIS BOX" tag

it was painted up real purdy. i 'bench tested' the box, and could feel play right off the bat, so i broke into it. parts washer and carb clean sent the paint screaming off of it like no ones business.

i about threw up when i opened it and saw that washer under the worm gear. my first thought was you hack job motherfucker....then i saw the top and bottom bearings missing 1 ball each.

having thought long and hard about the wear on the peg, i would almost bet it would polish off (at least in my box) and same for the housing. if you look on the peg, there are centering points which would allow you to center it in a lathe. boring the body wouldn't be too hard, but finding a bushing may be a challenge.

now the washer they stuffed under the peg was 1/16th. that leads me to believe 1 of 2 things. 1) the peg shrunk or 2) the bearings and races were shot.

honestly, i think a bus with a mild case of the 'pop pop's' could be solved by adjusting the pin on the peg to sit a little deeper in the worm. i should try and see if my local bearing house can supply me with the stuff to fool around with this old box
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gprudenciop wrote:

my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese.......
[email protected] wrote:
most VW enthusiasts are stuck in 80's price land.

Jake Raby wrote:
Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public.

Brian wrote:
Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
What do you mean by ball? ... Ray


Ray - I should have said roller instead of ball. The early box peg is held with rollers whereas the late box has a different style peg - more like another worm.

Early (photo from Skills post)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Type of peg in a late box. This is the only photo I could find of a similar part.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.






another thing i forgot to mention, the pin in the peg i'm assuming is suppose to roll on the bearings, correct? this one didn't. i can't imagine that it wouldn't be able to roll up and down with the worm in a fixed position. talk about wear Shocked
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gprudenciop wrote:

my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese.......
[email protected] wrote:
most VW enthusiasts are stuck in 80's price land.

Jake Raby wrote:
Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public.

Brian wrote:
Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes - the peg is supposed to spin. It is replaceable however I could not locate a nos part for you. It is 211 415 223 B for an early bay.
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