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I know VW's leak oil, but not this much? (Solved!!)
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VolkDubz
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:28 am    Post subject: I know VW's leak oil, but not this much? (Solved!!) Reply with quote

I have a 74st bug I've been working on and I started to get oil leaking nonstop from which looks like behind the crank pulley. It will drip about one drop every second when the engine is running. Now I'm not that engine enclined so the only things that I have done to the whole engine compartment is rebuild the carb,replace stock crank pulley with degree pulley. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I took a couple pictures of the engine to give everyone an idea of what I have. (Note: front engine tins/exhaust tubes have been removed for pictures)
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Last edited by VolkDubz on Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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67jason
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i bet your cheapie degree pully is not sealing right. put the stock one back on and see if it still leaks.
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Joel
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hooking the crankcase breather up correctly would be a good start
the hose coming off the oil filler needs to go to the port on the aircleaner u can see behind the choke in the middle pic

ur bug obviously has one of those stupid emissions charcoal canisters under the right guard
if not then im praying thats not the other of the breather hose connected to the fan housing cos if it is then its no wonder the case is blowing out around the pulley cos it would be pressurising the case

thos pancake air filters really do suck in pretty much every respect
unless u got it for looks ur car will be alot happy with a stock filter
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fmartin_gila
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine has that vent hose from the oil filler going directly to a fitting on the underside of the aftermarket(looks about the same as yours) air cleaner. The way mine is would put negative pressure on the crankcase, the way the pictures show yours is, would put positive pressure on the cranckcase and would cause a lot of oil leakage.
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catbug
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have my aircleaner fitting pluged and the hose from the oil filler venting down under the engine. Does it have to be hooked up? Also on your picture why is the vacuum hose thats hooked up to the manifold under the carburetor going to the left side of the carburetor? On my VW it goes to the vacuum advance on the dizzy, but then mine is a 68.
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VolkDubz
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

catbug wrote:
I have my aircleaner fitting pluged and the hose from the oil filler venting down under the engine. Does it have to be hooked up? Also on your picture why is the vacuum hose thats hooked up to the manifold under the carburetor going to the left side of the carburetor? On my VW it goes to the vacuum advance on the dizzy, but then mine is a 68.


never got vacume plugs for the carb/manifold-I dont drive it much so the hose works for now. The hose from the oil filler goes to the charcoal canister, and the other hose coming in comes from that charcoal canister to the doghouse. I think that answered most questions would that still make it leak or is it just the crappy pulley like 67jason said? I dont remember it leaking that much or at all with the stocker pulley, but I accidently bent that so it wont work. I did notice ridges on the hub of the stock pulley and not on the degree pulley should a good pulley have that?
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79SuperVert
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VolkDubz wrote:
I did notice ridges on the hub of the stock pulley and not on the degree pulley should a good pulley have that?


Yes. There is no oil seal by the crankshaft pulley, so those ridges actually guide the oil back into the crankcase. Without them the oil will find its way out past the pulley.
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If there are no grooves on that replacement pulley and it is completly smooth, than thats a pulley for a sand seal. Put the stock pulley back on, or get a quality replacement one with the grooves.
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junkrat
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have that same fuel pump but my hoses are hooked diifer,the top goes to fuel tank bottom goes to carb,my engine still runs,does it matter,thanks
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piemat
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

junkrat wrote:
i have that same fuel pump but my hoses are hooked diifer,the top goes to fuel tank bottom goes to carb,my engine still runs,does it matter,thanks


It wouldn't work otherwise. Only one end sucks. Smile
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 11, 2008 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As buggin74 said, the hose from the oil filler goes to the air filter. You said you have it connected to the canister, disconnect it because you are pressurizing the engine case and forcing the oil out around your pulley. If you stop blowing air into the engine, you should only leak what the rest of us do! Wink
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VolkDubz
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bashr52 wrote:
If there are no grooves on that replacement pulley and it is completly smooth, than thats a pulley for a sand seal. Put the stock pulley back on, or get a quality replacement one with the grooves.
Ok now that makes sense, but can you explain the purpose of the "sand seal" you keep talking about and why it would not have grooves. Also thanks everyone for the input
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VolkDubz
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VolkDubz wrote:
Bashr52 wrote:
If there are no grooves on that replacement pulley and it is completly smooth, than thats a pulley for a sand seal. Put the stock pulley back on, or get a quality replacement one with the grooves.
Ok now that makes sense, but can you explain the purpose of the "sand seal" you keep talking about and why it would not have grooves. Also thanks everyone for the input it was great
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slick68
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A sand seal with correct pully keeps sand out of the case. The grooves like on your stock one help pull oil back in to the case. A sand seal requires a smooth surface on the pully,a grooved pully would tear up the seal.
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VolkDubz
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay everyone thanks for the help, I did have the wrong crank pulley. I went out today and bought a nice alum/degree pulley and center bolt with a center tap that you can use a ratchet on to turn over your engine. Now my other question on this topic was about the tube going from the oil filler out to the canister. I pulled nearly everything off my car that had to do with emissions except for that box, if I remove it what can I do with the hose coming from the doghouse and also should I still route the hose from the filler neck to the bottom of the filter?
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Joel
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

junkrat wrote:
i have that same fuel pump but my hoses are hooked diifer,the top goes to fuel tank bottom goes to carb,my engine still runs,does it matter,thanks


if u look closely this one is the same as that.....

it volksdub u really SHOULD put some clamps on those fuel lines
ur bug is a fire waiting to happen
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fmartin_gila
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should just route the hose from the filler to the air cleaner(this will induce negative pressure on the crankcase) and plug off the blower housing fitting. This will also eliminate the cannister. DITTO on those fuel lines, you don't want them to come loose and spray fuel on a running engine.
Fred
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And cap those fan housing outlets, and put the rear breast plate tin back in.
That engine has to be overheating like a mother.

AND, VW's should not leak oil. None of mine do.
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Rome
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cap the fan outlets, with heater boxes in place? No... buy some of that corrugated air hose, run it from each fan shroud outlet thru the rear breastplate and into the top of the heater boxes- you can see the round hole in the last 2 photos. HB needs supply of air to cool them off inside even if you have the heater lever "off". If you cap those outlets, you should remove the HB and use "J"-tubes.
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Rome
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So when you say "solved", was the new pulley effective to stop the leak?
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