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Vanuber
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2020
Posts: 412
Location: Virginia
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 Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2023 4:50 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| Chilepines wrote: |
10 AWG is what I have in there - rated to 30A. My understanding (possibly wrong) is that the ratings are for continuous loads (3 hours or more) and I'm not expecting to be charging at that high a load for very long. I have a 40A breaker on that wire coming from the starter side.
I have not routed the wire from starter to house battery yet. I may bring it to a shop to get them to put it on a lift and fish it through. I gave it a little try and could get across.
There is a decent size wire in the drivers side box coming from the starter battery - any chance I could tie a cord to that and pull it from the starter battery side? |
All good on the 10 AWG cable. I used a slim section of pipe with paracord taped to the end to fish across the underbody, above the gas tank. Then tied/taped the wiring to the paracord (wiring wrapped in wire protection sleeve) and pulled it across. It was a pain. Would have been much easier with a lift.
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'85 Westfalia 1.9L
'72 BMW R75/5
'71 BMW R75/5
'02 Subaru Forester 2.5L |
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Vanuber
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Joined: February 16, 2020
Posts: 412
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Thu Jun 08, 2023 4:54 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| Chilepines wrote: |
| BTW - how did you wire your radio? I thought I could run a wire from the fuse panel to the yellow on the stereo, and then use the red ignition trigger wire that was already there. Turns out there is no red wire (it was connected to the yellow wire to bypass the key) so I'm trying to figure out what wire I can use to be powered off the house battery and triggered from the ignition. |
Look back at my original post... There is some info and photos. Which wire to snip from the fuse box will be different as you have an '89. See the Go Westy guide:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0555/8170/4357/files/GW-V-DC-DC-KIT_REV_5.pdf?v=1651859739
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'72 BMW R75/5
'71 BMW R75/5
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Chilepines
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Joined: October 11, 2022
Posts: 251
Location: New Hampshire
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| Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2023 8:09 pm Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| Vanuber wrote: |
I looked at a few ways to route wiring from the starting battery to the DC|DC and IP67 AC|DC chargers. After some experimentation, I quickly realized running the wires inside the van was not going to keep an OEM look (one 6 AWG and one 12 AWG duplex wire take up more space than you’d think) and decided to run the wires underneath the bus.
I found a diagram on Van Café showing the exact point to drill in the driver’s side battery box to avoid all the things you wouldn’t want to drill into below. A 5/8” hole allowed enough room for a rubber grommet and both wires. It was tricky to fish the wire across the fuel tank but I finally managed after getting some paracord across first, then taping it to the wires and pulling them through. It was very simple to then run the wires up the “mouse highway” into the starting battery compartment: |
I was able to get wire under the van from passenger to driver side battery boxes. I was planning 10 AWG and instead decided to run two 10 AWG wires together to be safe.
One question is - did you secure the wires you ran across under the van to anything? Right now they are just hanging there which worries me when they will be carrying 30A to the DC-DC charger.
My other question - there is a small hole in the drivers side battery box already. Why not just enlarge the existing hole?
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Vanuber
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2020
Posts: 412
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2023 5:42 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| Chilepines wrote: |
| Vanuber wrote: |
I looked at a few ways to route wiring from the starting battery to the DC|DC and IP67 AC|DC chargers. After some experimentation, I quickly realized running the wires inside the van was not going to keep an OEM look (one 6 AWG and one 12 AWG duplex wire take up more space than you’d think) and decided to run the wires underneath the bus.
I found a diagram on Van Café showing the exact point to drill in the driver’s side battery box to avoid all the things you wouldn’t want to drill into below. A 5/8” hole allowed enough room for a rubber grommet and both wires. It was tricky to fish the wire across the fuel tank but I finally managed after getting some paracord across first, then taping it to the wires and pulling them through. It was very simple to then run the wires up the “mouse highway” into the starting battery compartment: |
I was able to get wire under the van from passenger to driver side battery boxes. I was planning 10 AWG and instead decided to run two 10 AWG wires together to be safe.
One question is - did you secure the wires you ran across under the van to anything? Right now they are just hanging there which worries me when they will be carrying 30A to the DC-DC charger.
My other question - there is a small hole in the drivers side battery box already. Why not just enlarge the existing hole? |
I wrapped the wire in plastic split loom to protect it. But it is not secured in any way. It is routed over the gas tank which keeps it in place and is really not hanging at all.
Maybe you could use the existing hole? It just needs to be in a place where you are not drilling into anything below. The Van Cafe diagram offers a good location to avoid interference.
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'85 Westfalia 1.9L
'72 BMW R75/5
'71 BMW R75/5
'02 Subaru Forester 2.5L |
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R0Batt
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Joined: April 05, 2021
Posts: 71
Location: Charlotte, NC
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| Posted: Thu Jun 29, 2023 1:57 pm Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| Vanuber wrote: |
I think this section of my original post answers most of the questions above. Basically, you are replacing the existing fuses and relay with the new system:
I wanted the sink faucet, pump, and LED panel to run off the auxiliary battery. This ended up being pretty straight forward and the battery gauge now shows the house battery charge level – 1) disconnect wires from the relay under driver’s seat, 2) disconnect from the fuse block and tie these wires together, 3) disregard the fridge wire, and 4) preserve the remaining lead for a fused connection to the new system:
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The only thing I am struggling with is getting the water level sensor working again.
It was working before I removed the factory fridge and replaced it with the chest fridge. (it would light up red with no water in the tank, I never actually used it, but now I plan to) Now it doesnt light up at all. So I am assuming there is no current when I flip the switch.
I have wired up the water pump to run off the house battery successfully.
I feel like the answer is somewhere in the diagram in your post above.
What does the ground wire do that is circled above, but no words in the comment box? Is that also the same wire depicted in the wiring diagram that is labeled "BK Display Unit?" That is the only wire that I have not hooked up.
Is that my problem?
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Vanuber
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Joined: February 16, 2020
Posts: 412
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Sun Jul 02, 2023 12:14 pm Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| R0Batt wrote: |
Is that my problem? |
Are you sure it isn't working? You have to fill the tank a bit to turn on the red indicator light, then orange, then green as the tank fills. Look inside the tank and you will see the three metal probes that sense the water level.
Is the battery indication light working? If so, I would guess the control board is fine and getting power.
The water level sensor can go bad too (the little black box that the three level indicator wires connect to). So that could be the issue. But I would trouble shoot at the water tank first.
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'72 BMW R75/5
'71 BMW R75/5
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R0Batt
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Joined: April 05, 2021
Posts: 71
Location: Charlotte, NC
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| Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2023 5:44 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| Vanuber wrote: |
| R0Batt wrote: |
Is that my problem? |
Are you sure it isn't working? You have to fill the tank a bit to turn on the red indicator light, then orange, then green as the tank fills. Look inside the tank and you will see the three metal probes that sense the water level.
Is the battery indication light working? If so, I would guess the control board is fine and getting power.
The water level sensor can go bad too (the little black box that the three level indicator wires connect to). So that could be the issue. But I would trouble shoot at the water tank first. |
I filled it up and it works  
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openroad65
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Joined: March 27, 2022
Posts: 22
Location: Toronto, Canada
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| Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2023 6:25 pm Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| I just fished the wires under the van, above the gas tank for the DC charger and winter battery charger. I learned that you really can't be claustrophobic if you're going to work on a van. That was a total pain.. Question. I'm not building out a board behind the driver seat the way you did. I'm thinking of placing the DC/DC charger inside the cabinet under the sink to keep the look clean. What's your experience with heat? Is that going to be ok in there? Or should I mount it on the outside of the cabinet behind the driver seat? Thanks.. |
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Vanuber
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Joined: February 16, 2020
Posts: 412
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Tue Jul 25, 2023 1:39 pm Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| openroad65 wrote: |
| I just fished the wires under the van, above the gas tank for the DC charger and winter battery charger. I learned that you really can't be claustrophobic if you're going to work on a van. That was a total pain.. Question. I'm not building out a board behind the driver seat the way you did. I'm thinking of placing the DC/DC charger inside the cabinet under the sink to keep the look clean. What's your experience with heat? Is that going to be ok in there? Or should I mount it on the outside of the cabinet behind the driver seat? Thanks.. |
I can't speak to all DC|DC chargers, but the Victron Orion gets HOT. I would want to keep it out of the cabinet for better airflow. I am sure it would still work in the cabinet, but I would assume its efficiency would diminish as heat builds up. And maybe longevity? It has a big heat sink for a reason.
Check out the user manual. If I recall, they have pretty specific mounting requirements.
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openroad65
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Joined: March 27, 2022
Posts: 22
Location: Toronto, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2023 9:55 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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Vanuber - thank you.
This post took me a while for a bunch of reason. But here it is. It took me a while to install the TF49 in stealth mode.
That was no small task as I had to modify both the fridge door and back of the unit to accommodate the metal horizontal brace bar running across the van body. But I'm very happy with the result.
I'm running a 100ah lithium SOK battery and get three days off it to run the fridge and charge phones, etc. I don't have an inverter and don't intend to use one anytime soon. So as you'll notice my battery is wired with 2 AWG which is more than enough to handle the load of my fridge, lights and iphone/ipad charging.
I put the MPPT, trickle charger and battery charger under the fridge.
I ended up putting the DC/DC charger under the sink. You had mentioned that it generated a lot of heat - but I'd already installed it there so I'm going to see how it goes. So far it doesn't seem to generate that much. I wonder if it's because my alternator is not as powerful - it only generates 65 amps.
The switch is for the DC/DC charger. The horizontal wire (white to black) is the wire connecting the van battery to the trickle charger. I need to add an on/off switch there. What would you recommend. It doesn't need to be greater than 20amps from what I've figured out. But switches for that amperage seem small and cheap. Thoughts?
As to the house battery I've put it to the left of the fridge. It's not my final set up. I don't have a water tank in the original space so this seems to work. I'll put a protective plexiglass sheet on top. And then I cover it with the regular shelf for that space. As you'll notice I put in a 4 prong plug for when connected to shore power to charge the batter, run the fridge and also the trickle charger. I could not put in an on/off switch for the trickle charger and instead simply unplug it too I guess. I haven't yet fully secured down all the wires as I'm still thinking this through.
I'm not fully settled with this part. So I'm happy to hear any suggestions on how you might modify this part of the setup. Be blunt!
For now it all works! Thanks. I definitely think I've ''over engineered" this thanks to your inspiration. But here we are. Thanks for the help! |
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MsTaboo 
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Joined: June 02, 2006
Posts: 4624
Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2023 10:49 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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Nice clean install!
One question, can you access the Victron' buttons under the fridge?
On my Victron shore charger I cut an access panel so I could change the charger to LiFePO4. Will the charger remain in that mode?
If it stays in that mode then I went to a lot of extra effort for nothing  .
Also, FYI, my shore charger gets pretty warm.
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openroad65
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Joined: March 27, 2022
Posts: 22
Location: Toronto, Canada
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2023 8:11 pm Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| @MsTaboo - I can't access the units under the fridge without pulling out the fridge. It's not that difficult a task but would be a pain. That said I'm running the units from the Victron app. So I don't need to access them unless they don't work for some reason. If I need to make any setting changes I an do so from the app. Also I haven't noticed my shore charger gets that warm. But that's for mentioning it. I'll keep an eye on it but haven't noticed warmth being an issue so far. |
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Vanuber
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Joined: February 16, 2020
Posts: 412
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2023 8:10 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| openroad65 wrote: |
| @MsTaboo - I can't access the units under the fridge without pulling out the fridge. It's not that difficult a task but would be a pain. That said I'm running the units from the Victron app. So I don't need to access them unless they don't work for some reason. If I need to make any setting changes I an do so from the app. Also I haven't noticed my shore charger gets that warm. But that's for mentioning it. I'll keep an eye on it but haven't noticed warmth being an issue so far. |
Wow, nice work! I really like the stealth fridge panel. All looks clean and proper.
Regarding the trickle charger switch, I don't have one and the charger is always on when I have the van plugged into shore power. The charger monitors the battery needs and will remain in storage mode if not charging. So, I don't see any harm in keeping it running when plugged in.
My only other thought is battery access for storage, etc. Not sure where you live, but my van is basically parked for 5 months and I take the battery out to store indoors, leaving it with a 50% charge. Does the panel above with the fuse panel and kill switch move easily for access?
Small things anyway... Great job!
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'85 Westfalia 1.9L
'72 BMW R75/5
'71 BMW R75/5
'02 Subaru Forester 2.5L |
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openroad65
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Joined: March 27, 2022
Posts: 22
Location: Toronto, Canada
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| Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2023 8:27 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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@vanuber - thank you.
The trickle charger I'm referring to is the ip67. So you don't have a cutoff switch on yours?
So in the winter you take your battery out and plug the van into shore power? I guess you probably also unplug (inside the van) the lithium 12/20 battery charger as that outlet will be powered when plugged into shore power.
As to access to the battery in winter, what I had read is that you leave it as you suggested about half charged and in the van for the winter unplugged. But a quick google search just now tells me that's wrong. I should bring it in. I'm in Canada.
I guess I could build a better wooden platform with a piano hinge, simply disconnect the battery terminals and the positive connections to the bottom of the safety hub, tilt the platform towards the side of the van and pull it out.
I like your set up better as you can easily access the battery with minimal disconnecting. But I couldn't think of a better way to use the space. Can you see a better layout looking at what I'm using?
I still need to add house lights (and one in that cabinet) to the battery. And maybe a few more USB port lines but otherwise I think that's it. |
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Vanuber
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Joined: February 16, 2020
Posts: 412
Location: Virginia
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| Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2023 5:00 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| openroad65 wrote: |
@vanuber - thank you.
The trickle charger I'm referring to is the ip67. So you don't have a cutoff switch on yours?
So in the winter you take your battery out and plug the van into shore power? I guess you probably also unplug (inside the van) the lithium 12/20 battery charger as that outlet will be powered when plugged into shore power.
As to access to the battery in winter, what I had read is that you leave it as you suggested about half charged and in the van for the winter unplugged. But a quick google search just now tells me that's wrong. I should bring it in. I'm in Canada.
I guess I could build a better wooden platform with a piano hinge, simply disconnect the battery terminals and the positive connections to the bottom of the safety hub, tilt the platform towards the side of the van and pull it out.
I like your set up better as you can easily access the battery with minimal disconnecting. But I couldn't think of a better way to use the space. Can you see a better layout looking at what I'm using?
I still need to add house lights (and one in that cabinet) to the battery. And maybe a few more USB port lines but otherwise I think that's it. |
- Right, I do not have a switch for the IP67
- Winter maintenance: I discharge the battery to about 50%. I turn the master switch off. Remove the battery from the van and store it indoors for the season. I leave the IP67 and IP22 plugged in and powered on and connected to shore power. The IP67 keeps the starting battery maintained. The IP22 will power all the auxiliary items - lights, stereo, fridge - without the battery installed.
- I like that location for your battery... It's nice keeping the bench space open. But, yeah you might want to have a plan for easier removal of the battery. Storing indoors during freezing weather should extend the life of the battery, but I am not sure really how important that is. Maybe someone else on here knows?
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'85 Westfalia 1.9L
'72 BMW R75/5
'71 BMW R75/5
'02 Subaru Forester 2.5L |
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openroad65
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Joined: March 27, 2022
Posts: 22
Location: Toronto, Canada
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| Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2023 2:56 pm Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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| Thanks for the reply! |
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Wellington
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Joined: September 21, 2004
Posts: 2020
Location: Montreal
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| Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2024 4:35 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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I'm replying to this thread, simply because I have it booked marked and admire the initial posters install.
In the installation instructions of the Victron solar charge controller:
Mount the solar charger vertically on a non-flammable substrate, with the electrical terminals facing downwards
How hot is this unit really getting?
Are they being overly cautious?
I'm planning my install, but I see many are mounting their controllers directly to
cabinets and plywood. |
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Chilepines
Samba Member
Joined: October 11, 2022
Posts: 251
Location: New Hampshire
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| Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2024 5:29 am Post subject: Re: One more auxiliary battery installation – ’85 Westy |
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I've seen 160F on the surface of my DC-DC, which is under the driver seat. I don't know what the surface temp would be if it was operating in an open, well-ventilated space, but they clearly get warm regardless.
Wood is not as risk of combusting at temps in this range. For the wood to burn, something else would have to ignite first, and if that were to happen you've got a big problem regardless of the mounting surface!
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