36hp popping under load - Carb issues not timing

[VW_Jimbo]

I would use solder instead of JB Weld. But, I have never soldered anything to a carb body, so not sure if it is even possible.

JB Weld is a temporary patch. It has been my experience that a longer term repair is worth my time and money. I have been let down, on several occasions, by JB Weld. It does have its place. Out at the river, while out on the lake, had the boat break down. With a small flat head screwdriver and some JB Weld (both in the toolbox) I was able to repair the cover gasket of the carburetor I had just unclogged the jets on. If not for JB Weld, we would have left a shit ton of fuel into the water and may have had to swim back to the house! So, it does have a place in the toolbox, for short term use!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[2Dokas]

okay, the carb does not rattle with obvious check balls in it.

I have a PICT with a vacuum tube that must be designed to work with a distributor with a vacuum advance but according to the Idiots Guide you dont mix a 36 and a PICT with a vacuum advance distributor only a centrifugal advance.

okay, is that really a thing?

This is the one I had bought rebuilt to match my 36hp

and this is the one that came with the car and the PICT which I think someone told me was a Bus distributor.

_________________
87 Doka 2WD Ej22,
56 Convertible

[petrol punk]

I tried JB weld on the air corrector holder, and the fuel turned the JB weld so soft I could peel it off with my fingers...
_________________
36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval, '70 bug 1835cc dual 36DRLA, and a '98 4x4 5spd single cab Tacoma

[2Dokas]

Unless there is a short spacer for the PICT carb the electronic choke contacts the regulator, so thats a no.
_________________
87 Doka 2WD Ej22,
56 Convertible