Later trans WITHOUT bus nose cone?

[GMendoza]

Has anyone installed a later trans in an early oval by welding in a new front mount rather than using a bus nose cone?

If so, any other issues to be aware of?

[Bruce]

It will cause the front of the trans to be too low by 40mm (or maybe it's 60mm??). This will cause your muffler to be too high.
Don't create problems, use the Bus nose cone.
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[the dominator]

same opinion overhere, I would leave the chassis original and mount the bus nosecone.

I have recently mounted the bus nosecone, then it is plug and play

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54 iceland green oval, done!
52 Zwitter standard ragtop, parts hunting
67 T2A candywaxred en chestnutbrown
1988 T3 doka synco 2.1WBX

[splitjunkie]

[esde]

I haven't had a bus and beetle noise cone side by side for a while, but I recall it's not just the mount that is different, it's the shift rod height too. So raising the mount won't do any good, as now the shift rod would be above the tunnel and the nosecone will likely be hitting the floor.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[jitbba]

I welded in that exact front mount for mine and used the regular nose cone for my transmission. No problems and pretty straight forward
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My other ride is a Zildjian

[splitjunkie]

[GMendoza]

Thanks guys for all the info, very useful!

[Bruce]

[jitbba]

maybe I was lucky, but this was not the case when I did mine. Welded in that front transmission mount, used the mid-60s transmission, and everything lined up perfect. No issues with the tailpipes, how the engine sits, engine seals, etc.

My only complaint is the new transmission makes the stock 36hp engine slower but I'll use the motor until it gives up the ghost, then opt for something more powerful
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My other ride is a Zildjian

[Ian M]

Bus nosecone is the way to go. Bolt in easy.

The hockey stick is lower on a bus nosecone,that's why they are also used with '60s cars that have raised transmission mounts-to keep the shift rod in the tunnel.

My oval had a later tunnel case mount like welded in decades ago,like mentioned here previously it resulted in the nosecone being too low and the rear of the engine being too high. Probably worked ok as a beater with the 40hp that was in it,but...

In my case, I welded in a solid mid mount (cal look car,not concerned with noise) and ran a bus nose cone to keep the shift rod in the stock location,simply eliminating the nose cone mount altogether.

[56Cabrio]

This is the route I took, super easy..
Fits 60 and earlier Beetle and 67 and earlier bus. Perfect for installing full syncro box into 60 and earlier Beetle.
https://ranchotransaxles.com/product/type-2-nose-cone/
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1956 Rag Top owned since 1988
1956 Convertible owned since 2000
1963 Hard Top

RIP Dad 4/20/1951 - 2/4/2023

[splitjunkie]

[jitbba]

The reason I went with welding in a new mount was to avoid mutt parts. In my mind, it made it too complicated to have to keep track of which years/models were with what parts if I ever had to service anything.
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My other ride is a Zildjian

[Chip26]

Consider using a bus nose cone or welding in a new mount while considering shift rod height and transmission compatibility, and consulting with experts for a safe and reliable installation of a later transmission in an early oval VW.

[splitjunkie]