90 mm Typ1 Cv Joint allowing more angle ?

[raphael BE]

Hi
Back again with question on putting the split bus in a "light" offroad configuration.

I found that if you want to put more angle on the cv joint the best way to go is the 100 mm 181.

BUT of course this is some extra €€€$$$ while I have and drive with a typ1 IRS conversion kit - being 90 mm Cv joint.

I've been looking the net but couldn't found anything

IS THERE ANY SPECIAL 90 MM CV JOINT ALLOWING MORE ANGLE THAN THE ORIGINAL ONE ?

Tx
Raf

[BFB]

none know of but you could race prep the 90's and run wide rear track & as long of an axle as you can to decrease angle
_________________
Forced induction can overcome a lot of obsticles that gets in it's way
"You are the Engineer and the Mechanic.  
Build it your way not the way someone else does it. Their way might not work for you." - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
“ The monkey see monkey do mentality seems to run deep in VW people. "Gene Berg said it was so 30 years ago so thats the way it is" “ - bdkw1

[petrol punk]

In college I built a baja SAE buggy and used the original Type 1 CVs out of my 200k mile '70 bug at up to 25* IIRC. The issue with Type 1 CVs is that the boot is mounted on a metal ring that limits you to something like 12*. With a different boot design you have much less limitation for your CV angle. I think we 3D printed our own boots though so I don't have an off the shelf solution for you. Maybe look for a rzeppa joint CV boot you can just hose clamp to the OD of the CV housing?
_________________
36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval, '70 bug 1835cc dual 36DRLA, and a '98 4x4 5spd single cab Tacoma

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

[BFB]

Type 1 12*
Type 2 17*
Type 4 22*
930. 25*
These arent dead set numbers but pretty accurate from what ive messed with.
I have gotten 24 or 25 degrees ( don’t remember which ) out of race prepped type 4’s though.
_________________
Forced induction can overcome a lot of obsticles that gets in it's way
"You are the Engineer and the Mechanic.  
Build it your way not the way someone else does it. Their way might not work for you." - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
“ The monkey see monkey do mentality seems to run deep in VW people. "Gene Berg said it was so 30 years ago so thats the way it is" “ - bdkw1

[74 Thing]

http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_to/CVJoints_Axles/cv_joints_101.htm

Make sure you clock them too:
https://californiaperformance.com/technical-tips/cv-clocking/

[raphael BE]

Tx you all
No real "cheap" solution - was worth asking

Rgds

[dirtkeeper]

[raphael BE]

[74 Thing]

https://www.racereadyproducts.com/cv-joints/empi-934-cv-joints/

[BFB]

[74 Thing]

My bad-you can just click on the CV joint tab on that web page then click on whatever 930 CV joint you want from the EMPI, to McKenzie's, to Pro-Am Racing. They have the specs. Or go to the EMPI website and look up the part number in the catalog for the description.

https://www.racereadyproducts.com/cv-joints/

[dirtkeeper]

[Mikedrevguy]

[quote="dirtkeeper"][quote="raphael BE"]

[BFB]

[quote="Mikedrevguy"][quote="dirtkeeper"]

[Mikedrevguy]

[quote="BFB"][quote="Mikedrevguy"]

[BFB]

[quote="Mikedrevguy"][quote="BFB"]

[Mikedrevguy]

My apologies for whatever link was connected. Do not know what’s up, as I get to the race prep t2cv from Amazon.
_________________
74 1303 (RevBug): plan for German Look
76 914 with 2260
79 VW Iltis
69 Bwajaja
"The wise speak because they have something to say; while the foolish speak because they have to say something." Plato

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