turn signal issue 63 type I

[negative2.sb]

1963 type I 6volt

currently working on front blinkers

wondering if anyone has come across anything similar. blinkers stopped working at some point can't remember when. bulbs all checked out ok but bought some new 6v bulbs from WW anyways. flasher relay had been replaced years ago, but put a new flasher relay in from WW. sanded down bare to metal under the front fender where the blinker housing bolts come through as I believe this how the unit grounds? has clean metal fender to washer & nut contact.

what's weird is; I have a little 6v test lamp and if I hook up the clip leads to the blinker housing (one to the center post that contacts the bottom of the bulb and the other ground to the blinker housing body). when I turn the ignition on and switch the blinker on - the test lamp blinks like it should and you can here the blinker make the normal tic toc sound. but when I put any of the bulbs in wether they are new ones or the existing ones (all 6v) it wont flash and the sound is a very fast clicking/buzzing as opposed to the normal tic toe sound with the test lamp?

I would assume that power to the blinker assembly and the grounding of the blinker assembly is good since the test lamp blinks?
I would assume the switch at the steering wheel is good since the test lamp blinks?

anyone run across anything similar or have any ideas?

Appreciate any information you might be able to provide. Thanks Brian

[Eric&Barb]

Test lamp does not pull anywhere the amperage that the signal bulbs do. Run ground wire temporally and see if that helps.

Not hard or a bad idea to run proper permanent ground wires from the signal bulbs holders onto the body inside the trunk. Rear gas tank hold down bolts should do well for ground wires. In later 1967 model VW started to add in grounding wires at the factory.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[OldSchoolVW's]

If you're not a purist, you might want to consider switching to LEDs.

I ordered these for my '63: (red for rear, amber for front)

https://www.ledlight.com/1129-ba15s-base-led-6-to-24-volt-2-6-watt.aspx

and this flasher:

https://www.ledlight.com/flasher-cf13-6-volt-dc-led-compatible-3-terminal-150-watt.aspx

This set up is plug and play, works perfectly and is much brighter than the original incandescent bulbs. According to Tech Support at LEDLight.com, these LEDs only need 4.3 volts to reach full illumination ... which helps if your car is struggling with voltage drops.

I tried both white and red LEDs in the rear and recommend the red. The white washes out the lens color and it actually looks almost orange.

Cleaning all terminals, connectors and grounds should be done to get the best results.

I also switched to LEDs for the dash illumination lights and warning/indicator lights. They too can be ordered in red, green, blue and white so you don't have to bother with replacing faded gels to restore the correct colors. If you decide to go this route, here's what you'll need to order:

https://www.ledlight.com/t7-led-light.aspx

You would also need to replace the bulb holders for the GEN, OIL and turn signal indicators with these:

https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=113957397

The polarity is reversed in these three bulb holders, so using these from WW allows you to connect the wires with the correct polarity for the LEDs.
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Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[negative2.sb]

[negative2.sb]

[Eric&Barb]

[Eric&Barb]

[negative2.sb]

[negative2.sb]

[Zwitterkafer]

Correcting bad grounds and checking for loose wires is excellent, but keep in mind that if the turn signals failed on both sides at the same time, it is less likely to be due to bad grounds at the bulbs. Assuming battery, battery ground, and flasher are OK, and the fuse feeding the flasher is clean and tight, then what remains is the contacts inside the turn signal switch. Simply jumper the switch to test if it is at fault. It has happened to me.....it is possible to go crazy chasing suspect grounds, when the real cause is 60 years of oxidation, old grease, and dirty worn contacts inside the mechanically wearing part of the system.
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"Criticism comes easier than Craftsmanship"
- Zeuxius, 400 BC

[OldSchoolVW's]

Another alternative would be to replace the original fuse panel with a new one that accepts ATO blade fuses:

https://www.torquerestoparts.com/product-page/61-66-beetle-ghia-blade-fuse-box

I believe there is more contact surface area on the blade fuses which should help. I got this one for my '63 and it is a perfect fit. It is configured exactly like the original so no modifications or piggybacks needed to connect the stock wires.

You don't mention how new you are to 6v VWs. If you are still getting acquainted with them, you might want to give this discussion a look:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=786218&highlight=

It has some great tips and advice from the 6v community that I have found very helpful.

The voltage drop you are seeing (3.8 - 4 volts at the bulb) could be cumulative, in which case you'd need to work backward from the light, cleaning/tightening connections as necessary. Have you checked voltage across the battery? Cleaned the battery connections? Cleaned the battery ground strap to frame and transmission ground strap to frame connections? Cleaned and tightened the connections on the generator and voltage regulator? Tedious work for sure, but tasks that almost always help reduce voltage loss.
_________________
Tom

"Following distance is proportional to IQ."

'63 Beetle Sedan
'69 Beetle Sunroof
'70 Beetle Sedan
'73 Type 3 Fastback

[Eric&Barb]