Power drop and stall

[RCJH77]

I know there are a lot of posts about similar issues, but none of the ones I've seen seem to match what I'm dealing with. I want to lay out my specific scenario and see if there's a consensus on what the issue is.

The issue:
I took my 6v 1960 Beetle out a couple days ago. It was running perfectly. Drove a few miles, turned it off for about 10 minutes, then started making my way back home. Still running perfectly, I'm running at 40-45 mph in 3rd gear for a minute or two when all of a sudden the engine shuts off. I noticed no loss of power prior. I came to a stop and tried to start it several times, but all it would do is crank.

I left it untouched for a few minutes and tried it again. This time is started up and seemed to be fine. I got back on the road and drove about a block before I noticed a power drop. I downshifted to 2nd and started to turn a corner and it stalled again. Same thing. Cranked, but wouldn't start. I decided to tow it home from there.

Additional context:

- I replaced the coil in August of last year. Not a $70 coil, but a new coil nonetheless. It was a $17 coil from Advance Auto.
- Within the last maybe 4-5 months, I've rebuilt the carb and fuel pump and they've been doing great since. At the same time, I de-rusted the tank and have confirmed that it hasn't started rusting again. I also put a new fuel filter on and it's pretty clear.
- Within the last year, I replaced the spark plugs.
- The battery doesn't seem to be an issue, but I haven't tested it other than knowing it still starts the car without any trouble.
- Last weekend, I replaced the fuel line. There are no leaks and the car seemed to be absolutely thriving with the new line (maybe my imagination).
- There was plenty of fuel in the tank and I confirmed last night that the fuel lever (to the tap) is installed correctly.

So a lot of what I'm seeing on other people's posts is "your fuel pump could be dirty" or "your coil could be bad" or "you need to clean your gas tank and blow out your fuel line." Considering everything I listed above, the only thing that makes sense to me is maybe the coil is junk and gave out. Everything else has been addressed pretty recently.

What do you all think?

[EDIT: May not matter, but this is a stock 1200 36hp motor.]

[RCJH77]

Another thing I should mention is that I just adjusted the valves about 2-3 weeks ago. Saw a significant improvement in performance after that.

[klroger]

You may have a condenser going bad or the gap on the points are almost closed up. As soon as it quits, leave the key on, pull the coil wire from the cap & check for spark. You could rotate the engine by hand to do this, but you may feel safer using a buddy to crank it. Try to use the coil bracket as the ground for testing . Just thoughts...
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I Didn't know what to do, So I Didn't do anything!!!!

[Jeff Geisen]

Nothing works like swapping in known good parts, one part at a time.
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I Corinthians 4: 1 thru 5

‘63 ragtop - ‘68 single cab

[Zwitterkafer]

Had same symptoms last Spring, with an Indigo Blau 6V 36hp 1960 Beetle. The holes in the fuel tap selector gasket had swollen almost completely closed after winter storage. After a fuel tap rebuild it was perfect again. Agree with klroger too...points closing up could also do this. The points plate ground strap must be good, and the points wire feedthrough bolt must be properly insulated from the distributor housing.
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"Criticism comes easier than Craftsmanship"
- Zeuxius, 400 BC

[mukluk]

Check the basics: verify valve clearances are good, look for loose wire connections at the coil and distributor, check for spark from the coil to the distributor and from the distributor to a spark plug, see if there's gas in the carb float bowl, and make sure the carb isn't overflowing/flooding.

The engine needs air, fuel, spark, and compression to fun. Start by narrowing down which one is lacking.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[hertz]

Check that your valves are actually opened

Mine had these exact same symptoms recently and then finally stopped. It was a stripped cam gear

[hertz]

Check that your valves are actually opened

Mine had these exact same symptoms recently and then finally stopped. It was a stripped cam gear

[RCJH77]

Appreciate all the suggestions! Planning on working on it this weekend. I'll report back on what I figure out.

[Jeff O]

Had similar problem with my '60 last year. My issue was also the reserve fuel tap, as already suggested. Try (gently) blowing air back up the full line to see if it blows freely back into the tank .

Careful if you take the valve apart. It's under spring pressure.

[08west]

I had a similar problem in my 1200 '65 - drove a few miles then died. Turned out to be the fuel pump (original Pierburg). Put a clear PVC tube from pump to carb, and it could barely lift fuel up to the carb, never mind any pressure. The diaphragm wasn't split, but had gone sort of baggy around the edges. I blame the ethanol fuel we're forced to use in the UK now. Anyway, got a rebuild kit from WW (with Effbe diaphragm material - apparently ok with ethanol) and did a thorough rebuild, no problems since.