My New '67 Project

[croSSeduP]

[croSSeduP]

In disassembling the pistons I found that EVERY oil control ring was broken like this. Each also had some kind of a - hard to explain - almost looked like a crystal where the ends butted together. You can see this "crystal" on the red side in this picture, the unbroken side. Never seen anything like this.

I also discovered that one of the cylinders is cracked on the skirt. I've been advised I can just grind this out to stop the crack, touch the edges so that it's smooth and doesn't screw up the rings when I install on the piston.

Here's my new engine case from Brothers Machining. It is a NEW mag case from Zima of Brazil that Brothers checked over and machined for my motor. See anything wrong in this pic?

One of the 6 main studs is missing. WTH??? How did it leave Brothers like this? Again, I've never seen anything like this!
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[croSSeduP]

As of now the engine is in the hands of my engine builder. Without going into detail as to how I know this, he knows what he’s doing. I did all the measuring on the crank journals myself with the micrometer I bought, and further checked this by using plastigauge. I had to have the crank polished after using the micrometer because it scratched the journals. In the meantime I’ve been upgrading my brakes. I installed CB Performance front discs. I was going to use their rear disc kit, but they were out of stock with no word on when they were going to get the kit in stock. So, I bought a T3 rear brake conversion from Vintage V-Dubs.
The disc kit was a simple install.

The T3 rears are A LOT bigger than the T1. This should definitely improve braking. More braking surface area in both the diameter and the width of the shoe. Also bigger wheel cylinders. This kit came all cleaned up and powder coated.

One backing plate installed. Cold and hungry! Will finish this another day.

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[67rustavenger]

Does your car have lowered spindles?
I want to do this front brake upgrade. But I currently have 2.5" drop spindles on the front.
I read, that the drop spindle kits push the width out 3/4 - 1" wider. Per side?
Have you tried your tires/wheels on the front yet?

On the rear. Are you running the stock length rear axles?
Is the T3 rear brake kit a bolt on?
I really like this idea. Almost twice the width on the brake shoes.
Looks like a winner.
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Big Bill]

I noticed that you are running studs on your drums, could you post a photo of how they sit from the inside of the drum? Did you have to machine the drum so they would clear the brake hardware/ I have been following your thread car is looking great.

[croSSeduP]

[croSSeduP]

My 2276 back from my builder. Now I just need to put the sheet metal on, install it, and fire it to break-in the cam.
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[croSSeduP]

My old hot rod fuel pump! This was mounted on the firewall under the fuel tank on the passenger side. Even though I insulated the crap out of it, still loud as h---. Which would be just fine on a drag car, or even a street/strip, but that's not what I'm using this car for. It's a street car with GO. The sound was ANNOYING. Since I was doing other work on it, I decided to replace the pump with a Jegs quiet pump.

I do NOT like the way the fuel line connects to the steel line in the tunnel. It is far from secure. I wish there were another option. Suggestions?

The wiring for this pump required the use of a relay system. Sort of a pain in the neck, but it's done.
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[croSSeduP]

Here's the latest mod. Since the car is lowered and the MC is above the front calipers, I installed this 10lb residual pressure valve to help make the pedal firmer. I've never really "liked" the way the brakes on this '67 were. For comparison I used to drive a '71 Super Beetle. Brakes were significantly better, and the pedal was higher and firmer. I'm hoping front discs and rear T3 brakes is the answer.
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[croSSeduP]

I had some problems with the rear brakes. In short, the drums from the T3 were not machined properly so the drum would not slide on enough to install the cotter key. The company that provided this kit is Vintage V-Dubs in Chula Vista, CA. If I were you I would STAY AWAY from this company. I spent nearly $500 on this kit, and they didn't/wouldn't back it up. They ghosted me, told me they'd make it right, and never did. They told me they would send out new drums. Never happened. That's the short story. I took some measurements and discovered that taking 3mm of the back of the hub, and 3mm off of the front would make the drum go on correctly. I took the drums the Northwest Connecting Rod, and the owner, Jerry, milled off the front and back of the hub while I waited. Now they fit properly. I also got my brakes bled yesterday, and have good pedal. I was finally able to put wheels on the front, and drop it down on the ground. Next step: Install motor!
Here are pics before machining:

Here's how it installs after:

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[croSSeduP]

Here's another "latest problem" report. I got tired of putting them here and stopped.
Got engine running with all new parts, new case, yadda, yadda, yadda. Ran great, had GOOD oil pressure, added oil cooling (see pics), drove it around and got it broken in. Decided to take a road trip in it to Cali (bucket list thing) to go to the Sacto Bug-In, and continue down to SoCal to bum around. Car ran fine, but it burned 8 quarts of oil there/back! Got back to town and decided to have someone else tear into this. It was discovered that one of the valve springs broke through in the intake port, so that caused the oil burning (see pics). Frankly, I'd LOVE to get my hands on a set of CB's Wedgeport heads, but they're back ordered to who-knows-when. Maybe when this is all back together I'll take another trip to SoCal when more shows are happening.

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[croSSeduP]

It just never ends, does it? After getting the top end of the motor torn down, the head fixed, flycut for more comp, and I also bought new Mahle 94's with Grant/Total Seal rings, I ran the car all last Spring-Autumn of '22. Last Spring-Autumn season I noticed that I was burning oil. It would really smoke at first start up and drive, and then go away. This year on my first drive, BIG cloud of blue smoke at fire up! Kept on smoking. By this time I felt the need to pull the carbs and plugs and check for compression. Here's the numbers:
#1 - 127
#2 - 158
#3 - 145
#4 - 165

What. The. Actual. F. And yes, I checked the valves before the comp check.
The upper end of the motor has maybe 1000 miles on it since it was put together.
The other thing is that is leaking oil from what looks like where the Berg 3.5 qt. sump bolts to the engine case, and somewhere in the flywheel area. It's hard to imagine it is the crank seal. It was installed properly. Maybe the crank O ring? Maybe one of the galley plugs that were tapped? One side of the clutch is oil soaked (the side against the shoe) and all the clutch parts have a very thin slime/grim on them. There's also a small puddle of engine oil in the bell housing of the trans. It is not gear oil. Below are the pictures.
ALSO, the trans needs to come out because it sounds like it has a bad pinion bearing. I've NEVER had an pinion bearing go out, and yet, here we are.
I just can't seem to catch a break. Ever since the early 2000's with a 2161cc I built that had 5 failures in 2 years that caused me to get out of VW's ENTIRELY until 2008 when I started this present project, continued weird stuff keeps happening.

You can see the oil saturation in this side of the clutch material:

The flywheel says ".004"" but now the actual measurement is about .008":

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[DesertSasquatchXploration]

A Huge bore and a stroker crank is like 5 19inch subwoofers in your trunk going to blow out every seal and your windows. Yes some guys can make big motors work but if you notice they keep the real secret's to themselves. I 100% guarantee you they to have gone thru what your experiencing. You need to adapt learn and fix the issues your having you seem to struggle with that because your not building the whole engine from start to finish. Just a busted knuckle with your head half in the dark and a everyone's hand in your wallet.

A nice 1776 bumped up compression, 110 cam, full flow With oil filter, solid breathing heads and dual 40IDFs will run forever the crank case pressure is manageable with a basic breather system So no oil leaks. Its the most popular street cruiser VW engine for a reason they work.

[motomwo]

I have read through your post from start to finish. First I would like to say you have a really nice looking 67. I like that you have kept it very close to the original with mild mods, not butchering anything. I applaud you for sticking with this project even with all the ups and downs.
In my opinion with all the repeated flywheel seal leaks and deep sump leaks and other various leaks are due to a lack of a good crankcase venting system. 2276 motors move a lot of air through the relatively small crank case and if the air can not get out it will build pressure and not allow the piston rings to seal properly, especially at RPMs above 6000 and cause more blow by and then start pushing that pressure passed every seal it can find a way out. I don't know what you are using currently for crank case venting but the pictures I looked at from a previous motor you had was not even close to adequate.
Just my 2 cents. Cool 67 you have! Makes me want to build another one.

Marty
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1961 Bug, 2276 cb wedge ports 44x37 11.1 comp fk10 1.5 rockers 48idf's 1 3/4" header Rancho pro street trans SAW axles Airkewld 4# narrowed beam, Koni shocks, Airkewld dis brake all around. 5.5/4.5 BRMs

1966 Bug, 2127, panchito heads, fk8, 1.3 rockers, dual 44idfs, 1 5/8 merge header, Rancho pro strt flyer, empi axles, Airkewld's 4" beam and discs all around and adjustable shocks. 4.5 & 5.5 BRMs

[croSSeduP]

Here's a pic of my crankcase venting. It is not the most recent pic. I've done away with the firewall mounted box, and all lines go to/from the Berg box you see in the pic. I have venting from each valve cover to the box, and venting from the fuel pump mount to the box. That's not enough?

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[motomwo]

That should work. That is better than the older picture of the vent system in this thread. Looks like you got it covered. Nice looking motor!

Marty
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1961 Bug, 2276 cb wedge ports 44x37 11.1 comp fk10 1.5 rockers 48idf's 1 3/4" header Rancho pro street trans SAW axles Airkewld 4# narrowed beam, Koni shocks, Airkewld dis brake all around. 5.5/4.5 BRMs

1966 Bug, 2127, panchito heads, fk8, 1.3 rockers, dual 44idfs, 1 5/8 merge header, Rancho pro strt flyer, empi axles, Airkewld's 4" beam and discs all around and adjustable shocks. 4.5 & 5.5 BRMs

[VeloMikey]

How old is your Berg filler? They aren't baffled inside like they used to be. Clyde Berg built my motor and suggested that I use a true breather box instead of relying on the filler as a breather. 3/4 valve cover to the left side of the box, 1/2 valve cover to the bottom of the box to drain back and top port on the filler to right side of the breather box. Buy a good quality breather like a Clyde Berg, SL1 or RLR with four ports. You don't want a cheap EMPI type box.

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'58 Ghia 2387cc with a Berg / Folts 5 Speed

Ghia Build Thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768748

[croSSeduP]