Steering Box Seal Replacement

[atmellovw]

I am in the process of replacing my steering box output shaft seal (it has been leaking for the two years I've owned the bus). As you can see I have the drop arm removed. The puller I used (pic in gallery) worked well but I will admit that when the drop arm popped off it scared the crap out of me. In any event I am thinking to remove the old seal I will screw a small screw into the old seal and pry it out? Any other suggestions? Also the output shaft has some play in and out. What is the tolerance for this play? Another issue I faced (it made me panic a bit) was during the removal of the drop arm a thread on the end of the output shaft was damaged. When I tried to see if the nut would go back on, it wouldn't thread! I walked away for a bit to mull it over. I then used a small file to smooth out the damaged thread and after some time it worked. I was relieved to say the least.

Old seal removed and area cleaned:

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1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex

[Wildthings]

Do you have a new seal for the pitman arm shaft? I had thought that they were unavailable. If you have one, who was your source?

When removing something like the pitman arm, always leave the nut in place, but just a turn or so loose. That way when it pops loose, you will only get a whimper and not a bang.

[atmellovw]

I hear ya on leaving the nut on but because that nut is castellated I couldn't get the puller shaft to seat evenly and I wanted to make sure it was pulling as straight as possible. Make sense? Plus the drop arm was still attached to the drag link so I knew it would not go flying across the garage. As for the seal, Mr. Lyons at German Supply has them.

http://www.germansupply.com/home/customer/product.php?productid=17299&cat=&page=1

He also has them for '73-'79.
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1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex

[Blaubus]

the output shaft is free of in-out play only at center steer- even when new and properly adjusted.

[atmellovw]

Good to know. I did mark the drop arm and output shaft to get things back they way they started (assuming the geometry was correct to begin with). Is there anything else I should verify in terms of alignment before I button things up?
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1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex

[atmellovw]

While I was at it, I decided to replace the steering coupler as the old one was starting show some cracks. At first I attempted to do this job just working underneath the bus and I did manage to get the old coupler out. But getting in the new one I found to be impossible due to having to feed the horn ground wire through the center of the coupler and the lack of clearance for the bolts. This is what I should have done first:

Now the install was easy with new cotter pins and spring washers:

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1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex

[atmellovw]

Okay, back at it today now that I have the new seal.

I used a piece of 1" PVC pipe and a rubber mallet to drive in the new seal (thanks Dansvans).

New seal installed. I added some oil to the box and will let it sit for a day or two to see if it leaks before I reassemble.

Drop arm reattached and so far no leaks.

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1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex

[jtauxe]

[borninabus]

i takes one arm on top and one on bottom. work through the driver's door. at least that's how i've done it.
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88 Van WBX, A/T - 93 Multivan 5cyl 5M/T - 13 JSW TDI 6M/T - 2012 Touareg TDI Sport

[Blaubus]

my advise: remove the steering wheel, then there are four phillips head screws to remove the ignition pod from the dash bracket. two screws to remove the cover plate from the floor. lift the tube/coverplate up just a little bit to get to the center wire and boltheads underneath. support the tube/coverplate with a block of wood. lifting it more than that requires that you release the horn wire from the tube tab, and that wire is a real bitch to take off and put back on.

[atmellovw]

Not sure why you would have to remove the steering wheel and iginition pod?

I found that after removing the two phillips screws from the base plate it then slid right up the steering shaft tube. From there I had easy access to the coupler bolts. Jtauxe - I had to work from both the top and the bottom. From the bottom, I had to remove the cotter pins and the bolts. I used a stubby wrench to hold the top of the bolt. Then from the inside with the cover plate up I could pull the bolts out. Then from underneath, slide the new coupler in making sure my steering wheel and gearbox are both "centered" in terms of rotation. Then put the new bolts in from the top making sure the ground wire connection is through one of the bolts. Then button everything back up.
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1972 Westy ("Bubbles") - Pastel White - 1700(1974 MT) - Dual Solex

[germansupplyscott]

[Ry-dog]

Looking to replace the seals on my early bay steering box. The output seal has been leaking for a bit and wanted to remove the box, clean it, put in new seals and go the corn head grease route. Purchased this box in 2004 as a re-built from Wolfgang.

Looks like both my output and input seals are made of some copper or brass bushing, so I don't see a way to remove these to put in the new seals. I am thinking it is best to leave as-is and hope the corn head grease will not leak from the output seal.

Anyone know of a way to remove the bushing seals without full box disassembly? Or do folks agree to leave as-is and be optimistic the output seal won't leak again after changing to corn head grease?

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'70 Westy
'14 Jeep Grand Cherokee EcoDiesel

[Wildthings]

Standard rubber lip seals with a comparatively wide metal case. One way to get them out would be to drill a small hole in the metal, turn a sheet metal screw into the hole a couple of turns, and then pry on the screw with a nail bar. It can help to drill multiple holes so you can pry on multiple screws at once.

[W1K1]

[Ry-dog]

[aeromech]

Unless Wolfgang did some voodoo magic, replacing the seals is an easy task once the gearbox is opened up. Pop them out using a large screwdriver or similar tool. You should disassemble and check the bearings. Clean and lube them.

New seals are available on eBay or Amazon once you get the dimensions. They are not VW specific
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Manfred58sc]

Or just fill the leaky box with Super Lube full synthetic and enjoy the afternoon off. End of problem.
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Fat chick owner/operator

[aeromech]

Regarding my picture above. See the worm gear? It has ball bearings on either end. The other arm has the peg. It has a double tappers roller bearing. These things jam up after many years. You can pretty easily clean and lube these bearings. Then fill the gearbox with whatever magical lube you can dream up. If the bearings are seized up from old lube, it will cause wear to the peg and result in galling or/and a flat spot.
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Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound