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Identification Question.
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Mrobinson55
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2024 10:43 am    Post subject: Identification Question. Reply with quote

Hi,

I need help identifying what this rear end came out of?? I cant find anything like it. All the Beetle rear ends I can find have different shock towers. This one seems to have more of a "car frame"

Maybe a silly question, but thanks for the help!


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BFB
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 29, 2024 3:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

Additional pictures would be helpful but id guess that to be from a bus
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TDCTDI
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2024 7:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

That looks to be a very early bus torsion housing.
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Mrobinson55
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 9:55 am    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

Thanks for the responses. It definitely is a bus rear end. Is there any difference between a bus rear end vs using a beetle rear end?

Thanks!
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Dan_Lockwood
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 1:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

It probably has gear reduction boxes on the end of the axles. Does the axle go straight into the brake backing plate, or is there gear boxes on the ends?

If it has the gear reduction boxes, they were never used in the Beetles. Also if it has the boxes, the ring and pinion is flipped in the transaxle because of the different rotation the gear boxes provide.

Dan
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BFB
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2024 5:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

those aren't RGB's, the drum would be sitting lower if they were.
biggest issue with this would be that the bus torsions are waaaay too stiff for buggy, unless someone has altered the torsion bars or something which I highly doubt. probably great if you wanted to run a heavy engine though
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An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
“ The monkey see monkey do mentality seems to run deep in VW people. "Gene Berg said it was so 30 years ago so thats the way it is" “ - bdkw1
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oprn
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2024 6:08 am    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

Yes, Bus torsion bars are indeed too stiff for a light sand rail. I can confirm that from personal experience! VW rated the type 2 at a 1 ton load capacity and a sand rail weighs about 800 pounds.

To my knowelage there is no fix for this. Those torsion bars only came in one size and are not interchangeable with anything else in the VW line.
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BFB
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2024 7:11 am    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

800 is erring on the light side, ive weighted two of mine and both were 1200 without passengers. ive seen a lot of guys post theres weigh in at more than that but not typically more than 1800. yes they can be 800 but that's not typical. unless you meant to say KG....
and I dont see it happening but the original builders could've, or OP could turn down the torsion bars to a smaller OD. or run coilovers or nitrogen shocks and lose the torsion bars
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An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
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oprn
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 05, 2024 2:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

I have asked about turning the torsion bars down. There are mixed opinions on the success of doing that given tempering issues. It seems opinions are that the tempering might not be consistent across the cross section and if the outside is cut down some of the tempering is lost. I don't know if that is true or not. Also the cost might not be very palatable.

I had not thought about just removing the torsion bars and going to coil overs. Good suggestion!

I should weigh the Buggy, I am just guessing 500 lbs on the rear axle, 200 on the front and another 200 for battery, fuel tank and seats etc.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2024 7:23 am    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

oprn wrote:
I have asked about turning the torsion bars down. There are mixed opinions on the success of doing that given tempering issues. It seems opinions are that the tempering might not be consistent across the cross section and if the outside is cut down some of the tempering is lost. I don't know if that is true or not. Also the cost might not be very palatable.

I had not thought about just removing the torsion bars and going to coil overs. Good suggestion!

I should weigh the Buggy, I am just guessing 500 lbs on the rear axle, 200 on the front and another 200 for battery, fuel tank and seats etc.



honestly ive never had torsion bars turned down either, and ive seen the same argument against it as you mentioned. but my thoughts are ( and im no metallurgist ) that torsions bars are spring steel not tempered steel like a knife blade nor are they case hardened like a grade 8 bolt. so I dont see how it hurt to turn them down.
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Build it your way not the way someone else does it. Their way might not work for you." - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
“ The monkey see monkey do mentality seems to run deep in VW people. "Gene Berg said it was so 30 years ago so thats the way it is" “ - bdkw1
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oprn
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2024 7:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

I tried to center drill and thread the end of one to aid in pulling out. That didn't go well. I do not own a drill bit that will cut one of those!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2024 11:09 am    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

oprn wrote:
I tried to center drill and thread the end of one to aid in pulling out. That didn't go well. I do not own a drill bit that will cut one of those!

I’d say the fault there lies with the drill bit you used. about ten years ago i bought an $800 set of cryo bits that were made to be used to drill the plating on military equipment and they had no trouble drilling through grade 8 bolts and even stainless steel. Recently id bought a new set which i dont think is as good as those but i cant find a supplier for the original set now. If i can find a spare torsion bar ill see if i can drill it and get back to you about it
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Forced induction can overcome a lot of obsticles that gets in it's way
"You are the Engineer and the Mechanic.  
Build it your way not the way someone else does it. Their way might not work for you." - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
“ The monkey see monkey do mentality seems to run deep in VW people. "Gene Berg said it was so 30 years ago so thats the way it is" “ - bdkw1
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oprn
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2024 2:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

I have a lathe that is large enough but I think the only practical way to reduce the diameter of a torsion bar would be to set up a grinder on it to do the job. I think a small angle grinder mounted on the cross slide...

Maybe someone with a crankshaft grinder could be talked into trying it.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2024 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

Im pretty sure weve had this conversation before ….
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"You are the Engineer and the Mechanic.  
Build it your way not the way someone else does it. Their way might not work for you." - clonebug
An interesting thing happens in forums where everyone starts parroting the same thing and "common knowledge" takes over.
“ The monkey see monkey do mentality seems to run deep in VW people. "Gene Berg said it was so 30 years ago so thats the way it is" “ - bdkw1
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oprn
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2024 4:36 am    Post subject: Re: Identification Question. Reply with quote

Yes and the answer is still unresolved. For the present until more pressing things are taken care of I will continue to run 10" wide ATV tires at 4 psi. It makes driving the rail possible without loosing the fillings in my teeth.
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