CV drive flange caps worn, raised van, axles shorter

[Sodo]

[JEL91Westy]

Reviving this as I have the exact same problem. Not sure of the manufacture of the axle, but I believe the last time it was replaced, maybe 5k ago, they installed an entire axle assembly. The inner CV doesn’t look worn that bad and I have not inspected the outer one yet, but suspected I was dealing with something else after seeing the damaged cap. I do know that this axle is noticeably thinner than the one on the other side if that means anything.

At first I only noticed the sound when turning left, but now it is anytime the joint is loaded with drive torque.

Vanis - wondering if you ever determined the cause?
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91 Westy
85 911

[vanis13]

[JEL91Westy]

Vanis- Thanks for the response, but that isn’t an option. I need to try and figure it out. Other thoughts or suggestions?

May just buy a new axle with German CVs and hope that solves it.
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91 Westy
85 911

[vanis13]

[4Gears4Tires]

If you're determined to run Chinese axles, they are certainly cheap enough to grind the ends down a bit. Has anyone followed Rancho's advice yet? Take off a sixteenth or an eighth?
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'87 Syncro Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition
'85 Westy Sciuridae Domus Edition

[MarkWard]

First step, get some good used OE axles. Know there are early ones that are longer than the later ones, so make sure they are correct for your van.

Aftermarket complete axles are for when you are broke down somewhere. With proper maintenance CVs should not leave you stranded. Of course changing ride height, power plant etc could introduce problems.

A CV shaft on a loaded suspension should move in and out an inch or so. They actually depend on CV boot position to hold them “centered”. Joints of unequal wear can also cause the shaft to ride off center. Grinding the end, might solve the cap issue, but you really want the CV joint centered on itself.

[broncoisl]

I have a 1984 Vanagon Westfalia 4 speed that I’m restoring. The left axle is damaged and destroyed the flange cap. The right side is fine. As far as I know the axles are original.But I replaced the cv joints a few years ago.

The van has a Subaru engine with bell housing and bracket from RJES (UK). The engine bracket is bolted to original holes in the van and uses the Subaru rubber engine mounts.

As the trailing arms and springs are not in the car at the moment I measured from top center of the drive flanges on the gearbox to center of the bump stops. Left side 418 mm right side 430 mm Difference 12 mm.

What are your thoughts on this? Should the gearbox be centred in the van? Is it possible that the engine (pulley end) with gearbox is tilted to the left and causing this to happen?

The axles are same length so in my mind it’s logical that the gearbox should be dead center.

Does someone happen to know or have measurements from frame rails left and right to center of the crankshaft pulley bolt on the engine? On any engine with 4 speed gearbox. Possibly I can adjust the position of the engine on the mounts.
Or whats the best way to measure if the engine is straight in the car?

Damaged axle:

[MarkWard]

Ouch, that isn't right. I'm not familiar with your install, but the vanagon 2wd chassis had two sets of transmission bolt locations. I think Early vans used the offset holes. So, yes you might have the transmission in the wrong holes. Same bracket pattern is used for both sets.

I would expect the measurements side to side to be pretty close to the same and it's obvious the one CV is lathing into the drive flange. Best to figure out where the problem or problems are.

[broncoisl]

[vanis13]

[broncoisl]

[vanis13]

[broncoisl]

Got my new “cheap” axles they look good.

Decided to clean up some surface rust and paint before I install them.

Had to clock one of the axle, otherwise everything looks good and the length is the same as the old axles.

Here are some pictures: