Reinstalling flexible fill hose on water tank

[strawman]

Hey guys
I’ve just finished replacing all the waterlines in my van. The last one to install is the flexible fill hose that goes onto the barbed fitting on the holding tank.
The old hose was clamped, as well as sealed with some kind of silicone or acrylic sealant. It looks to me like they ran the sealant around the barbs and then shoved the hose on. They then applied a bead of sealant around the front of the hose where it meets the tank.

I want to do the same thing. I’ll fill the barbs with sealant stopping 1/4 inch from the end of the barb. That way when I push the hose on no sealant will get into the tank. I’m thinking that if I apply enough sealant that when I push the hose on, there will be a bead left close to the tank.Then I’ll clamp it and let it cure.

My question is do I use a 100%silicone sealant or a 100% acrylic sealant?
I have access to a product called big stretch which is 100% acrylic or I can go to a RTV sealant that’s 100% silicone. I believe the RTV is food safe. Not that I’m going to get any in the tank but I’m just want to be sure I’m using the best one
Thanks
Dan.

[wbailey2112]

When I replaced ours, I used no sealant on either end of the hose, nor did I find any evidence that there had been any kind of sealant used at the Westfalia factory. The trickiest part of the replacement was wrapping the filler cord around the groove in the hose on the tank end to ensure that the clamp could tightened evenly around the hose.
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'74 Thing
'83 Westfalia

[strawman]

Not sure what you mean by,” wrapping the filler cord around the groove in the hose on the tank hand.”

Sounds to me like you’re saying that the raised white ribs on the filler hose need to align with the lower parts of the barb. This then would ensure that the clamp is doing its proper job.

Not sure why the previous owner used a sealant, but then he did a few weird things.
Thanks for your reply.

[strawman]

I went out to my van to have another look with a different perspective after reading your post. I definitely see that I’m meant to twist the hose on to the barbs. In fact, barbs is not even a correct word to use.

I can’t twist the hose onto the tank. It’s already attached on the other end. Also the previous owner installed a propane furnace in that area leaving me no room to twist it anyhow. It has to be pushed on. Maybe they used sealant just to make sure it didn’t leak.

I’d still like to use a sealant. It might make it easier to push on.

[ALIKA T3]

[OlisGarage]

Isn’t there also a groove in the tank for an o ring to be placed?

My tank leaked until I installed the o ring in that groove.
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1981 VW Vangagon TDI (in progress)
1984 VW Rabbit Convertible (daily)
2003 VW Jetta Wagon TDI (recovering from a hit and run)

[Altoona]

There are several different style of tank. With yours, disconnect the other end of the hose so you can twist it onto the "threads" of the nipple. Goop it up with silicone, twist it on and clamp. Done countless ones this way with no leaking.

[skills@eurocarsplus]

[zerotofifty]

You referring to the pressure tank, or overflow tank?

I use no sealer, use clamps on the big hoses on the pressure tank, and no clamps on the hose between these two tanks.

I just did a coolant change yesterday, royal pain it is compared to my other cars, still need to burp it a bit more today sucked up everthing out of the overflow tank after a nice warm drive up and down some very steep hills. in this regard, I prefer my aircooled cars.
Give the vans issues with head gasket leaks, I go only three years then change the coolant, so I hope to never have that head leak issue.

but, no sealer is not needed on the hose fittings.
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Sorry About That Chief.

Give Peace a Chance.

Words to live by.

[kamzcab86]

No sealant or wire on mine; just clamped it good and tight.

[strawman]

I’m referring to the water holding tank underneath the storage compartment.
There was no electrical cord wrapped around the threads when I removed the hose, just lots of sealant. The new hose from Gowesty did not come with any cord.

The PO used a strap to pull the hose away from the furnace before he installed it I cannot get to the screw he used to install the strap. I had to feed the hose down from the outside through the strap. Now I want to push the hose onto the tank.

The correct way to do this would be to remove the furnace so that I could twist the hose on, connect it to the outside, then reinstall the strap. I might still do this. I was just wanting to know if anyone has successfully pushed the hose on with lots of sealant and then clamped it. And of course, what type of sealant to use?
Thanks

[DeLvxe]

That hose was very hard to get on. You will have to disconnect the hose from the box side so you can twist it on to the tank. I guess you could also try twisting the hose lefty-loosey a bit so you can righty-tighy onto the tank.

I may have used Teflon tape but definitely didn't use a sealant like silicone or acrylic.
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1991 manual camper with EJ25

[ALIKA T3]

[ALIKA T3]

[strawman]

Hey guys
Thanks for all the replies. I’m wondering about this electric cord that wraps into the valleys on the tank. Is this like that Brown old lamp cord. You know very thin with two conductors. If so, what about cutting the cord to the correct length and then glueing it as I wrap it around into those valleys? That way it would stay in place when I twist the hose on.

Anyhow, I will be putting this project on hold for a little bit while I try to fix my fridge. Plus when I put the new hose onto the faucet P-trap, the P-trap fell off in my hand. Bloody hell I haven’t figured out to get that sink drain out yet. It is so seized up.

Theis vans sure keep me thinking, thanks for all your support.
Cheers
Dan

[ALIKA T3]

I wouldn't , might make it too tight to reinstall....
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[wbailey2112]