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jlrftype7
Samba Member
Joined: July 24, 2018
Posts: 4434
Location: Chicago
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 Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 2:10 pm Post subject: Re: Oil Switch |
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https://www.amazon.com/Century-Drill-Tool-Rethread...4&th=1
Re-threading tap above ^^^^. Hex drive on the end, so you can use a socket to get it into your threads versus worrying about a tap wrench or a square drive socket that fits the end of a regular tap.
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'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 52085
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| Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2025 8:54 pm Post subject: Re: Oil Switch |
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| DanHoug wrote: |
| Wildthings wrote: |
Looks like you might have an insert in the hole that might be messed up.  Both switches were 10mm tapered pipe thread originally. |
i'm pretty sure the oil switch ports are M10x1.0 straight thread with a sealing washer required between the sensor body and the block. while a 1/8-27 NPT will fit and seal, i like to use a male M10 > female 1/8 NPT adapter to keep the threads clean. |
I am sure you are right, I was thinking the Type 4 engines that use 10x1 tapered threads. |
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lobsterguy
Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2022
Posts: 36
Location: ME
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| Posted: Mon May 12, 2025 3:58 pm Post subject: Re: Oil Switch |
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So I’m a little late getting back to this as I just got back from school. The advice about using a tap on the low pressure switch (lower on the engine block) seemed to work. I now have the new low pressure switch in. My trouble now comes with the replacement for the high pressure switch (around the pulleys). The old one came out pretty easily with a 24mm socket, but is much larger than the 10Mx1.0 sensor I got to replace it. The old sensor also has an additional nut on it. Since my oil warning lights always came at high rpm, which I think means it was a problem with the low pressure sensor, I was thinking of possibly just putting the old high pressure sensor back in. This wasn’t my plan originally, and I wanted to replace both sensors for peace of mind, but I’m wondering if it’s worth the hassle to find a replacement part for the high pressure switch that is the same size as the old one. Thanks
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2.1L 1987 Manual Westy |
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lobsterguy
Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2022
Posts: 36
Location: ME
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| Posted: Mon May 12, 2025 4:57 pm Post subject: Re: Oil Switch |
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| lobsterguy wrote: |
So I’m a little late getting back to this as I just got back from school. The advice about using a tap on the low pressure switch (lower on the engine block) seemed to work. I now have the new low pressure switch in. My trouble now comes with the replacement for the high pressure switch (around the pulleys). The old one came out pretty easily with a 24mm socket, but is much larger than the 10Mx1.0 sensor I got to replace it. The old sensor also has an additional nut on it. Since my oil warning lights always came at high rpm, which I think means it was a problem with the low pressure sensor, I was thinking of possibly just putting the old high pressure sensor back in. This wasn’t my plan originally, and I wanted to replace both sensors for peace of mind, but I’m wondering if it’s worth the hassle to find a replacement part for the high pressure switch that is the same size as the old one. Thanks
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Well I think I answered my own question. It looks like I took out a part that was part of the block itself  . I’m working on getting the two pieces unstuck but it looks like the replacement part I got will work after all
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2.1L 1987 Manual Westy |
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