Engine/Transmission removed where and how would you start?

[poundman]

I know the engine will run, I had it running for a few seconds with some fuel in the float bowl but the carborator was crap. I know it needs all new seals etc... Were would you start with clean up and tear down? I was thinking about using a power washer and cover up all holes. Then I want to removal all the tins and maybe take off the heads. If I need to go further then I will be out of my league.
After initial clean up I will split the transmission and evaluate clutch, replace seals and bearings.

Thanks for the help. It was a milestone just getting it removed.

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

this is a 1977 FI rebuild. Just skip thru the areas that are not applicable.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=724313&highlight=1977
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

Did the engine have good compression and did it have good oil pressure? I would have gotten the engine running well and then driven it for a while before I yarded it out so I would have more idea what it needed.

Your engine and tranny don't look particularly oily. Some seepage is pretty much the norm, so I probably would not have pulled the engine just to replace the seals, but now that you have it out I would go ahead and do them. I would certainly look at the wear surfaces for the clutch and see what it needed there.

Oil leaks can be deceiving, I have owned a '73 Thing for nearly 20 years now and thought I would have to pull the tranny early on to fix the oil leaks that consistently left an oily spot on the ground where it was parked, but in all that time I have maybe added a cup of gear oil to the transmission as the loss is so slight.

[poundman]

[raygreenwood]

Show a close up CLEAR picture of the center intake manifold. It looks....odd.

Ray

[poundman]

[raygreenwood]

[Wildthings]

[Clatter]

Hate to be the guy that farts in church but no way i would risk just putting some unknown engine in your bus.

Nothing sucks worse than having to take it right back out and apart

50 years ago is a long time.

Even worse, someone has been in there.

Take it apart, clean it up and re-seal,
Then you will have a leak-free engine, the peace of mind knowing it’s right, and the knowledge of how to build it.

If it’s all hunky dory in there you’ll only need to pop for a gasket set and a few seals.
If there’s anything wrong, you’ll get to fix it.

Everyone has to start somewhere.

Did a little how-to years ago and it’s in my sig.

At least insert the stripped plug hole..
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Bus Motor Build

I have excellent news for the world...
There is no such thing as patina.
It does not exist!

[timvw7476]

some Gunk foamy engine cleaner. Good place to start.
And new input shaft seal, output seals, shifter hockey stick seal for trans. The stuff that's problematic when it is bolted back in place. Change the throw-out bearing whether it needs it or not for same reason.
Oil cooler seals for the same reason. The Usual Suspects.
Engine? seals in both ends, pushrod tube seals. Don't forget the two crankshaft O rings, one hiding under the fan mount hub, the other wedged in the flywheel recess.

[dodger tom]

new pilot bearing.
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1978 Champaign Edition 2 Westfalia
Would never find the time to keep up another classic air-cooled.

[Willin]

I would skip the power washer,( because I don't have one.)
But pull all the tin , and clean it up. My oil cooler looked like a dryer filter. Might be critters living in there.
Pull the heads and barrels. Then you can inspect the bottom end and cam.
Your compression was pretty good. I borrowed a cylinder hone from my laps.
Lapping valves is easy too.
Don't know what to tell you about the bad sp thread.
With the engine and trans out, you have a perfect test run stand for before install.

PM me if you really want to stick with the Progressive. I have the whole setup you can have for shipping.
Although I would really try to talk you out of the idea.
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73 bus. Org. 1700 with dual Weber 40 idfs, bus header with Empi qp muffler, CB magnaspark 2 " ready to run kit".

[poundman]

[poundman]

[poundman]

Clean up and tear down started. I am glad I took it out because I am finding all kinds of stuff.

Nest and mud between cylinder 3 and 4

I broke off one of the fasteners for engine tin near the intake on cylinder 1. I think I can drill out and retap.

There is no thermostat and no flaps.

No flaps

Fuel pumps nears cleaning and rebuild. tons of gunk in the intake

Question, what is this air vent at the back of cylinder 1?

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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

[timvw7476]

That final image?, the soft-seal from below, is the hot air passage to the former dual-carb air cleaner assembly. It sent hot air upwards for warm-up drivability.
It rubbed up against the main box that held the air cleaner paper element, which then split off to the two separate carbs. The left (driver's) side one also featured the idle circuit & had a manifold that split that mixture between the two carbs........ yeah. Complex. Kinda.

[poundman]

Thanks @wildthing. I appreciate the link. Also, what is the purpose of peening? Is it to help ensure the pressed in plugs don't pop out? I will have to look at mine. I do know this was a replacement or refurbished engine, not the original.
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Restoring a 1972 Bay Window Bus that has not be registered for the road since 1981.
Sugar Land, Texas

[poundman]