Advice on my 1776cc Engine Build

[Run Flores Run]

1776cc Engine Build

This motor will be for my ’67 Ghia with a stock tranny. It will be a weekend warrior not a daily driver. I would rather have it quicker than faster. I live in west Texas so I’m not sure how the climate and elevation factor in.

I want to re-use some parts if possible. Below is what I’ve come up with so far. I have not purchased anything yet.

Please let me know your thoughts. I’m not locked in on anything yet. Thanks.


Re-use 1600 dual relief AH case
(need to make sure case is still in spec)

Re-use 90.5 pistons and cylinders
(is this a good idea if I re-hone the cylinders and replace the rings)

Re-use SCAT C45 cam
(Is this too much cam?? Would the CB 2280 cheater cam be better)

Re-use 69mm stock crank

Re-use stock rods

Stock clutch
Lightened flywheel
Ultra-light lifters
1.25 rockers on solid shafts with swivel feet adjusters
Stock DP heads (35X32) with dual springs and mildly ported
CB Magna spark ignition system
Dual 40 IDF carbs (clones) (not sure on the jetting)

Not sure about the exhaust size
Not sure about the CR and deck height

Thanks,

Ray,

[Brian_e]

Couple more questions need to be answered before your combo can get narrowed down.

Do you want to keep the stock heater boxes?

Are you up for running 91 octane all the time?

Whats your elevation?

How high are you wanting to rev it when you are driving it hard??

Is this a weekend cruiser around town, or are you wanting to jump on the highway and run it for 2-3 hours in the summer?

Brian
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Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
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[johnnyvw164]

power band for that cam is advertised as 3500 to 6500. Since your sticking with a stock crank, definitely go with something milder. I'm currently building something similar, and am using an Engle W90 since I'm limiting the RPMS to 4500 because of the stock crank. Kadrons, VS exhaust, AA500 heads with some port blending and smoothing along with a 3 angle valve grind.

Or...get a c/w crank so you can actually use the RPM capabilities without beating the crap out of the case.

[Run Flores Run]

Hey Brian, thanks for responding.

I'll be running J tubes with a 4-1 header but not sure what size exhaust.

I'm up for running 91 octane if I need to.

Elevation here is 2,782

Not sure how high I want to rev it. I'm old so I'm not an aggressive driver but I do want to "get on it" from time to time.

It will be mostly around town driving. From time to time I'll get it on the loop at 60mph.

[Brian_e]

The c45 is a pretty big cam, especially for a 1776cc with stock heads.

If you are after more low end grunt for town driving, but still need to spin it to 5000+, I would say something in the 236-242 @ .050" range.

A cheap 1 3/8" hideout header and muffler from CB would be good. A ss143 from Vintage Speed would be better, and really quiet. But also lots more money.

Here is what I would build. I have done the same thing a couple times now, and they run great.

Stock crank and rods rebuilt
Re-use your P&C's if they are in good shape. Hone the barrels, and add new Grant cast rings.
cb2239 cam, and their cheap lifters
Stock push rods, cut down.
Stock adjusters, or CB elephant foot adjusters. (NO SWIVEL BALL STYLE!!!)
Solid style rocker shafts.
Light flywheel
aa500 heads, blended bowls, and a good, well placed 3-4 angle valve job
Single HD valve springs.
Amazon 40mm IDF's, with 30mm vents
CB offset manifold and linkage kit.
CB hideout muffler and 1 3/8" header
Sachs clutch and pressure plate, shimmed for max holding pressure.
.040" deck height
8.8-9.0:1 compression.

Get the heads right, and the deck height where it needs to be, and it will run cool, and have really good power for what it is. No need for a fancy crank, just get it all dynamically balanced, and it will last a really long time.

BFB will say its boring, and cookie cutter, but that's because it works good, its cheap to build, and it will make really good power if its put together right. No need to make it more difficult than it needs to be.

Brian
_________________
So more or less the lazier and stupider you want to be, the nicer quality parts you need to buy.
-Modok


www.type-emotorsports.com

Type E Engine Parts and Supplies
https://type-emotorsports.com/collections/engine-parts

[Alstrup]

He´s talking weekend warrior. If the heads are good and the CR is decent, I see no issues on that. The older C45 cams - can - be good, and help deliver great overall power. The newer ones are sadly crap.
Stock heat exchangers and a 1 3/8" header/ hideaway will be waaay too restrictive. Even a 1 3/8 with a good collector/muffler set up will limit it at 115-120 hp. A decent 1½" system will support the exhaust flow needed. As always for medium engines I like the Super Comp both for power support and tunability. - and you will need all the help you can get in the ghia, because you have to limit the intakew length.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435993

[chrisflstf]

I can second Brian’s recommendations on a similar 1776, CB2239 cam. 9 to 1 CR, .040” deck This is in a bus so I do have gear advantage with RGB’s

Today I floored it on a steep off ramp doing about 58mph. Passed a F150 doing about 72 close to the top of the hill. The guy yelled at me at the stop light. What the HELL do you have in that thing!

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

The other day @ CarCraft the engine builder was very adamant about never going smaller then a .060 deck. I didn't ask or provoke any response about deck height. Just asked about the heads they offer.

He suggested 40x35.5 heads on My short block a 90.5 69 crank with a 100 cam.

Do a 60deck cut heads to 8.8-9.0 CR. Seems a bit weird. Possibly he was thinking I could expand to a dual IDF setup when I get tired of a single?

I'm going with Brian's suggestions nice valve job, tight deck and stock valves. Plenty of manifold Air speed for around town your not at the track jumping from 5-7K

[Alstrup]

[Brian_e]

[Run Flores Run]

Thanks to all who responded.

No one mentioned the cheater cam. Is it not a good option for my combo?

[ChangeIt]

The 2280 is a good cam. I ran it with rebuilt Kads and a 1 3/8" header and hideaway muffler and liked it in my 1679cc Super Beetle but you can get more out of your engine with the other suggested cam(s) and the recommended higher compression ratio and proper deck height.

I went with the 2280 and 8.25 C.R. knowing that I was eventually going to try a 34PICT3 blow thru turbo. If I was going NA I would shoot for around 9:1 and a bigger cam and better heads as the experts have said.

[Alstrup]

[DesertSasquatchXploration]

[croSSeduP]

DO NOT use a stock crank in any engine that will see more than 4500 rpm! You will get nasty harmonics and will pound out the case at the center main in short order, especially with using a line bored, used case. My recommendation, besides what you already have:
Counterweighted 69 mm crank, 8-dowelled, lightened flywheel, forged gland nut. There are places (at least there used to be) that would take your crank, check it out, and counterweight it for you.
Engle FK-43
Chromoly or HD aluminum push rods
1.4:1 rockers (CB or the like).
1 1/2" merged header
Performance Workshop Stage 1 heads, CB Super Mag Round Ports (or the like)
Keep CR below 8.5:1
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[Alstrup]

[croSSeduP]

Did I say “cam”? I meant “CRANK!”
Re. FK-43, what do you suggest?
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[txoval]

FK43 is about .540” lift depending on what your rockers end up measuring and 250 at .050.

Probably needs to be between 9-9.5:1

[croSSeduP]

[johnnyvw164]

Hey Brian_e, you mentioned shimming the presuure plate for maximum clamping pressure. I'm in the process of building a similar motor and wondering how you do that and if there are any negative affects? I would like to at least consider it.
Thanks!