Servicing the Automatic Transmission Fluid/Oil (ATF)

[HeyCrutch]

Gonna do my first transmission service on a 2002 EVC at home soon, so I'm buying the various parts. I checked underneath and my pan has 5 bolts.

So far, I've got this list of items:

Definitely need:
- 01M-325-429 Transmission Oil Filter
- 01M-325-443 Transmission Filter Gasket
- 098-321-370 Transmission Oil Pan Gasket

Might need:
- 097-321-368 Transmission Oil Pan Magnet
- Red Eurovan Transmission Filler Cap (can't find a VW part # for this)

Oil
And of course the fluid/oil which has sent me down a rabbit hole. I think I'd like to use VW oil this first time and I think it's supposed to be G-052-162-1L-DSP at around $25/litre. Seems like lots of aftermarket options (Pentosin, Febi, etc). Any solid recommendations/advice on the oil??

Other
Fill tube?
Pump?

Any other parts needed? I've found all the tutorials and videos. I'll be using my ScanGauge II to read the temp to know when to let it drip (after filling).
_________________
-2003 EV MV Weekender- Dragon Emerald Pearl- 24v VR6 - Forest
-2002 EV Camper- Arctic White - 24v VR6 - Ghost 2.0
-2003 EV GLS- Reflex Silver- 24v VR6 - (For Parts Only)
-1997 EV Camper- Arctic White- 12v VR6 (SOLD)

[gesoffen]

Assuming the old magnet is in there, you shouldn't need a new one. You can "look" for the magnet by holding some ferrous metal up to external area of the trans pan.

Fill pipe cover (the red locking ring you mentioned) part number is 01M321435B.

Febi/Bilstein and pentosin brands are perfectly suitable as long as the meet VW specs (LT71141 if I recall). You'll need ~4+ liters so get the 5 liter jug if possible.

Unless you've done it recently, you'll want to service the differential too. This requires removing the pendulum mount to gain access to the fill plug. "Draining" the diff is via suction through the fill plug. You'll need ~1 liter of 75W/90 gear oil. Also, a good time to check the pendulum mount bushings.

[bigfoot_ev]

I bought this kit the first time I changed my fluid since it seemed to have everything needed. It even included a pump, which I don't know how you would fill without one. The fluid is Ravenol another quality option.
https://www.blauparts.com/vw-eurovan-atf-transmission-fluid-change-kit.html
I did a thorough clean of the pan and magnet. And as with all VW plastics, treat the overflow tube with care.

Totally agree with gesoffen about changing the differential fluid while you're in there.

[HeyCrutch]

Is servicing the Differential in the way the 2 posters just above have mentioned the same thing as checking and servicing the Final Drive, which is something referenced in the Maintenance Schedule?

This will be a task I'll have to brush up on ...

EDIT - I'm reading this wiki page that answers my question:
https://vweurovan.fandom.com/wiki/Final_Drive_or_Differential
_________________
-2003 EV MV Weekender- Dragon Emerald Pearl- 24v VR6 - Forest
-2002 EV Camper- Arctic White - 24v VR6 - Ghost 2.0
-2003 EV GLS- Reflex Silver- 24v VR6 - (For Parts Only)
-1997 EV Camper- Arctic White- 12v VR6 (SOLD)

[gesoffen]

Final drive = differential.

Easier than the trans service in my opinion:
1) Drive van until fluids are warm (~15min)
2) Put van up on ramps/jackstands, such that vehicle is level (and safe to work under)
3) Remove pendulum mount - 22mm socket and ?H10? allen
4) Remove fill plug (?H17 allen?), don't be surprised by metal filings on the magnet.
5) Use your fluid suction method of choice to remove existing fluid - syringe, transfer pump, fluid extractor, etc. You'll need some tubing to get down close to the bottom of the diff - flexible silicone tubing or similar.
6) Fill with diff lube until it comes out fill hole
7) Reinstall fill plug and pendulum mount (you may need some help getting engine in right place to line up pendulum mount via a ratchet strap or similar).

As mentioned before, check the condition of the pendulum mount bushings and replace as necessary.

Since you will be inches away from it, lay eyes on the clearance between you exhaust system and the hard lines going to/from the steering rack. There should be a spacer/bumper or similar holding the exhaust away so you have clearance between the two. Often times the bumper goes missing. A missing bumper combined with aging engine mounts will result in zero clearance and eventual rupture of the hard lines.

[HeyCrutch]

[HeyCrutch]

Looking back through the maintenance records from Owner #2 (owned from 40K-77K) he had the fluid changed several times at a dealer. The first time (@ 46,500) they did a true, full A/T service, replacing the filter, gasket, etc. The next several times it looks like they just drained the oil and re-filled (3 years later @ 64k, 2 years after that @ 69k, and 4 years after that @ 75k). Nevertheless, he was obviously consistent about maintaining the A/T fluid.

There are a couple of items listed in the parts list from the invoice for the full A/T service that I cannot confirm that are needed ... when I enter them on vwpartsonline.com I get messages indicating they do not fit my vehicle (2002 EVC).

The two parts are:

N-904-142-03 - Drain Plug - https://www.vwpartsnowonline.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-drain-plug-n90414203
and
01M-321-432-A - Transmission Drain Plug - https://www.vwpartsnowonline.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-transmission-drain-plug-1m321432a

They are there right on the invoice and the prices are in line with the current prices online. But that message ... "does not fit your vehicle" ... has me a bit perplexed. Could the dealer have made an error and charged the PO for a couple of items that they actually didn't need or use for the A/T service, or do those parts actually, in fact, fit my vehicle, even though the website says they don't.

Appreciate the hand-holding on this one ... just want to make sure I have everything I need before dropping that pan.
_________________
-2003 EV MV Weekender- Dragon Emerald Pearl- 24v VR6 - Forest
-2002 EV Camper- Arctic White - 24v VR6 - Ghost 2.0
-2003 EV GLS- Reflex Silver- 24v VR6 - (For Parts Only)
-1997 EV Camper- Arctic White- 12v VR6 (SOLD)

[trunnion]

[HeyCrutch]

Well as usual I "measure a thousand times" before I make my first cut ...

Finally tacked a DIY transmission service. Have had all the parts and fluids since late last summer but just kept putting it off.

This was for the 2003 Weekender - it had 47,740 on it today when I did the job. This was the van I purchased about 15 months ago (when it had 38k on it) and brought it home to NC from California. It had an External Cooler installed but none of the records ever showed a Transmission Service. The A/T fluid was topped off when the Cooler was installed based on the receipts charges.

After draining the fluid and removing the A/T Fluid Filter, I could see that the date on it was 2002, so I'm 99.9% certain this was the original fluid. Very happy that I finally got around to tackling it. The old fluid was very dark and there was a fair amount of very fine metallic sludge / build up the magnet -- nothing on any size to note -- pretty much looked like what I have seen in videos I've watched.

One of the impetuses that led me to finally tackle the job was I had been noticing the van would exhibit a sort of "winding up" sound when moving away from dead stop in first gear - as if the transmission was straining every so slightly. I still had good torque but I didn't like the sound.

Happy to report that after doing the fluid drain and fill, that particular sound has gone away and the van is shifting as smooth as I've ever felt any of the vans I've driven. No lags, no jumps, no hard shifts ... just nice, easy transitions between the gears.

Volumes:
-- I drained about 3.5 liters of old fluid. Refilled it with not quite 4 liters of fresh A/T sold by VW (from FCPEuro) and then about a 1/2 liter was drained out during the leveling procedure at 100 degrees F.

Since this was the original A/T fluid, I'll probably do it again in 10k to 15k miles, to flush out some more of the original fluid that remained in the gears, then after that will stay on top of it every 20k.

I did NOT tackle the Differential as I'll need to learn a bit more about removing the Pendulum Mount - no idea what's involved for that job. But I do have the fluid, a syringe-style extractor, and the 17mm hex key for the day I finally get there.

Thanks to everyone who offered tips (and to those unsung heroes of YouTube that post helpful video tutorials.

I purchased all the parts for the job from FCP Euro - gonna try and take advantage of their lifetime replacement on everything. Bought the pump from Amazon I think.

_________________
-2003 EV MV Weekender- Dragon Emerald Pearl- 24v VR6 - Forest
-2002 EV Camper- Arctic White - 24v VR6 - Ghost 2.0
-2003 EV GLS- Reflex Silver- 24v VR6 - (For Parts Only)
-1997 EV Camper- Arctic White- 12v VR6 (SOLD)

[HeyCrutch]

Question for the experts out there.

When replacing A/T fluid during a service, one of the most important tasks is getting the amount/volume of fluid in the pan correct. This is done via the procedure that involves getting the trans temp up to the 95-113 degree Fahrenheit range and then removing the drain plug the pan and waiting until there is just. drip coming, then replacing the plug. This sets the proper "level" in the pan at that temp, and thus the Transmission is then filled with the proper amount of fluid.

Almost to my question. The service instructions state that one should expect the transmission to exhibit issues in cases where the amount of fluid is too much (overvilled) as well as too little (underfilled).

My question:

Is there specific behavior that one would expect to experience from the transmission if UNDER-filled that would be altogether different than if the transmission is OVER-filled? (and vice-versa).


For example, might one expect to experience a hard shift under one of the two scenarios above, while experiencing slippage under the opposite?

Maybe there's no sure answer my question, but given that it seems VERY important that the level be correct, i.e. that the amount of fluid int he transmission be correct, then it seems like there might be some specific expectations for how the trans would operated under the OVER-filled and UNDER-filled scenarios.
_________________
-2003 EV MV Weekender- Dragon Emerald Pearl- 24v VR6 - Forest
-2002 EV Camper- Arctic White - 24v VR6 - Ghost 2.0
-2003 EV GLS- Reflex Silver- 24v VR6 - (For Parts Only)
-1997 EV Camper- Arctic White- 12v VR6 (SOLD)

[kourt]

This is a good question, but keep in mind that the service procedure specifically calls for overfilling and then draining at operating temperature. So VW doesn't really care about the underfilling condition. If you're underfilling, you're doing the service procedure wrong. They did it this way in an attempt to scope the procedure down and make it simpler.

I know you know this, but I think it needs to be said to put the service procedure in proper context for others who will be reading this thread.

kourt

[Endopotential]

That's a great point Kourt.

So as long as there's some fluid overflowing out (and unless the engine is ice cold) it seems like an improbable scenario where the transmission could be underfilled? Which seems like a safer setup.