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Turbopaul Samba Member
Joined: August 21, 2024 Posts: 81 Location: NY
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2025 11:06 am Post subject: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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Is a sway bar necessary on my street legal buggy? I am having some interference problems with it and I would like to remove it if there won't be any downside to it. Thanks |
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Dale M. Samba Member

Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20765 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2025 1:18 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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You don't really "need" it, but I actually put heavy duty (3/4 inch) front and rear on mine and it handles like it's on rails.... Without sway bars about you will notice is a bit more lean and body roll when cornering....
Curious as to your interference issue.... _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns"
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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slayer61 Samba Member

Joined: June 01, 2021 Posts: 1144 Location: CA
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2025 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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What Dale said. 3/4 front and rear on mine too. _________________
Cusser wrote: |
... Most folks are idiots when it deals with electrical !!! |
67rustavenger wrote: |
3/4 race cam? What's missing, one of the lobes?  |
Paul
'68 Manx clone... Sears??
2276 built on AS21 case
W-125 w/ GB 1.25:1 rockers
Mahle forged pistons
CB 4340 crank
CB H beam rods
deep sump
44 HPMX
EMPI GTV 2 STG II wedge ports
CB Magna spark
1 5/8 merged collector w/ hater stinger |
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YDBD Samba Member

Joined: February 25, 2017 Posts: 924 Location: Bavaria, Germany
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2025 8:47 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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What Dale said. If you drive on winding roads often you will notice the difference or if you corner at high speeds. Off road not so much. Had to remove my 3/4" one when I put in a narrowed front beam. _________________ '56 pan Dune Buggy since '69
don't live in the past...but when I did:
'67 bug
'64 baja
'60 dune buggy
'73 Personenkraftwagen Type 182 "Thing" |
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EVfun  Samba Member

Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 6067 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2025 10:20 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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I've never run one on my buggies. There isn't a lot of weight up front so the front suspension is plenty stiff. The big and little tires on buggies seems to reduce the need for one too. The Bug didn't even get a front sway bar until the 1960 model year. You can run without one and try it. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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oprn Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 14555 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2025 3:53 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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As far as Beetles not getting a sway bar until 1960, remember that the highway speed limit in most places back then was for the most part 45 mph and most roads off of the main highways were dirt or gravel.
My glass street Buggy came with the stock front sway bar but when I put the new front beam in I haven't put it back on yet. The front beam with all the stock torsion bar leaves is already stiff enough on a light Buggy that there really is no discernable difference if the car is not pushed hard in the corners. Out here on the flat prairies with dead straight roads for miles and miles I can tell you there is no difference one way or the other.
However, I do plan to pull a few leaves to soften up the front end a bit and plan to put the front sway bar back on to keep from loosing that roll stiffness as the front gets softer.
I also plan to run the mountain passes again and I admit to being an aggressive driver in the corners and I love a flat cornering car. _________________ Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old! |
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MrGoodtunes Samba Member

Joined: May 14, 2012 Posts: 999 Location: South Florida
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2025 7:34 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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Ran into an interference issue with my front sway bar after using U-bolt type muffler clamps to hold structural steel for supporting my 68-73 front bumper. Solved it by cushioning sway bar to angle iron contact with a piece of soft rubber hose cut to fit and glued in place. Been running happily like this for decades on streets and highways. |
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jsturtlebuggy Samba Member

Joined: August 24, 2005 Posts: 4578 Location: Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2025 7:52 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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If you having clearance problems with front bumper and stock sway bar, I have seen them mounted upside down to get the space needed.
The sway bar does stiffen the suspension and can make the ride feel harsher.
On my own buggy when it was built in 1970 by my Dad the sway bar was removed and never put back on since then.
And it been driven fast on many winding roads on pavement and dirt with not needing a sway bar. _________________ Joseph
Fair Oaks/Orangevale, CA
Elrod Motorsports
Motion Tire Motorsports
Having fun with Dune Buggies since 1970
Into Volkswagens since 1960 |
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EVfun  Samba Member

Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 6067 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2025 2:58 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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oprn wrote: |
As far as Beetles not getting a sway bar until 1960, remember that the highway speed limit in most places back then was for the most part 45 mph and most roads off of the main highways were dirt or gravel. |
Dad tells me that in western US the typical speed limit was 65 by day and 55 by night. We had the state highway system (paved) and the federal interstate freeway system was just being started. I’ve driven many a stock-ish 40 horse Bug, and my oval (since sold) flat out many times. In stock form I wouldn’t want to pull off a 1 lane jog at 65mph in either Bug (with or without the sway bar). You can yank the car over 1 lane suddenly but should take an extra lane to straiten out more gracefully. On a stock Bug without the sway bar that is more important.
Take a street buggy with about a 7% reward weight shift compared to a Bug, toss in rear tires 2 inches larger than the front, and lower the back just a little so camber is 0 to -1 degree instead of slightly positive, now I can pull off the 1 lane jog with more confidence than either of those stock Bug setups. It is still unsettling.
Does anyone know where I could find an old Bugpack Flop Stop kit? That would be a great addition to make swingaxle jacking unlikely. (Even if I drove it like I stole it.) Honestly, the best handling buggy was electric buggy #1. With 6 Optima lead acid batteries buried in the floor that thing could shut down ricers in the curves. It went in with a little understeer and if you applied a little throttle or a little brake you could gently switch it into gentle oversteer. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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oprn Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 14555 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Mon May 19, 2025 3:37 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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The main north/south highway in our province was 45 mph until 1965 when the 4 lane was built between Edmonton and Calgary. When it was opened the limit on it was indeed 65 mph later raised to 70 mph where it remains today. I well remember the old timers mumbling and grumbling about all the people that were going to die traveling at that ridiculous speed! _________________ Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old! |
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slayer61 Samba Member

Joined: June 01, 2021 Posts: 1144 Location: CA
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Posted: Mon May 19, 2025 4:03 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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EVfun wrote: |
oprn wrote: |
As far as Beetles not getting a sway bar until 1960, remember that the highway speed limit in most places back then was for the most part 45 mph and most roads off of the main highways were dirt or gravel. |
Dad tells me that in western US the typical speed limit was 65 by day and 55 by night. We had the state highway system (paved) and the federal interstate freeway system was just being started. I’ve driven many a stock-ish 40 horse Bug, and my oval (since sold) flat out many times. In stock form I wouldn’t want to pull off a 1 lane jog at 65mph in either Bug (with or without the sway bar). You can yank the car over 1 lane suddenly but should take an extra lane to straiten out more gracefully. On a stock Bug without the sway bar that is more important.
Take a street buggy with about a 7% reward weight shift compared to a Bug, toss in rear tires 2 inches larger than the front, and lower the back just a little so camber is 0 to -1 degree instead of slightly positive, now I can pull off the 1 lane jog with more confidence than either of those stock Bug setups. It is still unsettling.
Does anyone know where I could find an old Bugpack Flop Stop kit? That would be a great addition to make swingaxle jacking unlikely. (Even if I drove it like I stole it.) Honestly, the best handling buggy was electric buggy #1. With 6 Optima lead acid batteries buried in the floor that thing could shut down ricers in the curves. It went in with a little understeer and if you applied a little throttle or a little brake you could gently switch it into gentle oversteer. |
Re the flop stop... mine came from ebay. Just had to check I. Regularly _________________
Cusser wrote: |
... Most folks are idiots when it deals with electrical !!! |
67rustavenger wrote: |
3/4 race cam? What's missing, one of the lobes?  |
Paul
'68 Manx clone... Sears??
2276 built on AS21 case
W-125 w/ GB 1.25:1 rockers
Mahle forged pistons
CB 4340 crank
CB H beam rods
deep sump
44 HPMX
EMPI GTV 2 STG II wedge ports
CB Magna spark
1 5/8 merged collector w/ hater stinger |
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GS guy Samba Member

Joined: December 03, 2007 Posts: 986 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Mon May 19, 2025 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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EVfun wrote: |
Does anyone know where I could find an old Bugpack Flop Stop kit? That would be a great addition to make swingaxle jacking unlikely. (Even if I drove it like I stole it.) Honestly, the best handling buggy was electric buggy #1. With 6 Optima lead acid batteries buried in the floor that thing could shut down ricers in the curves. It went in with a little understeer and if you applied a little throttle or a little brake you could gently switch it into gentle oversteer. |
EVFun - any chance you could retro-fit the '68 Bug factory Z-bar? It would take some doing/bracing, but provide near ideal swingaxle handling. I had a '68 bug at one time that I shimmed up the down links to "jack up" the rear a little. It worked great, and also noticeably improved the handling. The same idea was applied to the period formula-Vees, before they all went to ZRS for the rear. FWIW, that was the "trick handling set-up for the Deserter GS, 3/4" Z-bar for the rear and fat sway bar for the front.
Jeff _________________ 70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS! |
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oprn Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 14555 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2025 5:21 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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Correct me if I am wrong here but the Z bar does not control camber apart from just augmenting the spring rate. You could get the same effect by putting heavier torsion bars in the car?
There were at one time a couple options to limit down travel on the swing axle that might be more effective. I assume that is what your "flop stop" is. _________________ Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old! |
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EVfun  Samba Member

Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 6067 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2025 7:47 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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oprn wrote: |
Correct me if I am wrong here but the Z bar does not control camber apart from just augmenting the spring rate. You could get the same effect by putting heavier torsion bars in the car?
There were at one time a couple options to limit down travel on the swing axle that might be more effective. I assume that is what your "flop stop" is. |
The Z-bar is the opposite of an anti-sway bar. The anti-sway bar fitted to the front of Bugs starting about 1960 tries to make both tire go in the same direction, when lifting one tire the bar tries to lift the other one too. The Z-bar is a pro-sway bar. When you lift one wheel it tries to drop the wheel on the opposite side. The stock VW version put a space in the action so it didn't act until the suspension had compressed some. GS guy was talking about shimming that out so the Z-bar works from the first suspension movement.
I think the EMPI camber compensator works the same way. The leaf spring can pivot in the middle, so when one tire goes up it will try and push the other down. You are right, neither of these devices can do anything about the camber change as the suspension moves up and down. That is fixed by the axle tubes and the height of the transaxle. The axle tubes are lower at the inboard end on Bug frames 1960 and newer.
There is no way to get a Z-bar in my Mini-T as the gas tank sits right over the transaxle. I'm pretty sure the Mini-T will never handle like well tuned Manx style buggy. The rearward weight shift is more drastic. The driver is close to sitting over the rear torsion housing, slightly rearward of the rear seat in a stock Bug. They are inclined to mild understeer with so little weight up front. I'm not so sure the normal idea of a front anti-sway bar up front and rear pro-sway bar (Z-bar or camber compensator) is the right answer. The Mini-T drives a lot different than a Manx clone or stock Bug. It is also a weird feeling to more or less twist in place, instead of being spun around, in turns. I've never really pushed it hard in the curves.
An image of the Z-bar setup from Glutamodo:
_________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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oprn Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 14555 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2025 8:45 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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Ah yes, so the Z bar is in effect just an overload spring. I thought so. In your case with no room for a Z bar, the rear torsion bars from a type 3 would give you exactly the same effect.
I used 944 rear torsion bars (same diameter as the type 3) and the 944 rear sway bar on my Buggy. It now corners incredibly flat but like you I have not yet pushed the limits to see if it understeers or oversteers as you approach that point. In milder turns it seems to be on the understeer side now. With the swing axle it wanted to oversteer when driving aggressively. _________________ Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old! |
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EVfun  Samba Member

Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 6067 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2025 11:08 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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oprn wrote: |
Ah yes, so the Z bar is in effect just an overload spring. I thought so. In your case with no room for a Z bar, the rear torsion bars from a type 3 would give you exactly the same effect.
I used 944 rear torsion bars (same diameter as the type 3) and the 944 rear sway bar on my Buggy. It now corners incredibly flat but like you I have not yet pushed the limits to see if it understeers or oversteers as you approach that point. In milder turns it seems to be on the understeer side now. With the swing axle it wanted to oversteer when driving aggressively. |
It's not quite just an overload spring. If you look at the image above you will see that if the rising suspension pushes the left lever (#5) up that will actually try to push the right lever (#9) down. So Z-bar (and the EMPI camber compensator) is doing exactly the opposite of what an anti-sway bar does. Stiffer torsion bars just make both sides firmer, it doesn't cause movement on one side to effect the other side.
In theory you install an anti-sway bar at the end you want to make slide sooner, so VW put one up front to shift help reduce over steer, and they did that at about the same time they lowered the transaxle in the frame to reduce rear camber. I guess that means you install a Z-bar or camber compensator to help make the other end slide sooner, and VW did that in 1967, along with lowering the rear a little to reduce camber more. They were taking steps to tame the oversteer inherent in a tail heavy car because drivers were mostly used to nose heavy cars that tended toward understeer.
Here is a website selling a modern version of the Bugpack flop stop. Poking around I don't see any US dollar sales info, tax information, or shipping options. The web site is also poorly configured, particularly if you find the English version. It shows the part and shows how it is installed, and yes it is a simple downward travel limiter.
To get back to the Turbopaul’s original question, by now it should be clear the front sway bar isn’t required. If the buggy ends up to tail happy an alternative to the front sway bar would be an EMPI camber compensator on the back. You can also stagger the tire sizes more (bigger rear and/or smaller front) to shift to less oversteer. I recommend you don’t get carried away with tiny front tires though, P135R15 tires gave my first buggy severe understeer even without a sway bar. Because a buggy is lighter than a stock Bug you effectively have a stiffer suspension than stock. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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GS guy Samba Member

Joined: December 03, 2007 Posts: 986 Location: Maryland
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2025 2:17 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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The effect of the Z-bar (when connected to the axles with pivoting drop links) is to make the swingaxles act like a solid axle as the car rolls. It is neutral to roll (unlike an anti-roll bar), instead trying to keep both axles in a straight line. This has the effect of keeping the rear tires (or trying to) perpendicular to the road as the chassis is in roll. Swingaxle roll center is at the center of the differential (so very high) and has a "natural" anti-roll effect, the front sway bar is the primary roll control.
As mentioned, the '68 Bug used the Z bar primarily as an overload/helper spring, I suppose to allow for softer rear torsion bars and better ride? Safety? Back then, I knew Zero about VW handling but I though the Bug looked cool! (Really needed a Select-a-drop in the front though!)
_________________ 70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS! |
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oprn Samba Member

Joined: November 13, 2016 Posts: 14555 Location: Western Canada
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Posted: Wed May 21, 2025 3:13 pm Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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To be quite frank, a glass Buggy without a roll cage has enough torsional flex that I doubt either end could be rightly said to "control" the roll on it's own. The stock Beetle body is a different thing altogether. _________________ Our cars get old, we get old but driving an old VW never gets old! |
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glassbuggy Samba Member

Joined: June 02, 2005 Posts: 918
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Posted: Fri May 23, 2025 3:56 am Post subject: Re: Sway bar for fiberglass dune buggy |
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I had sway bars on my Rascal. It handled really well but that isn't always a good thing. When parked on an uneven surface the front tire would be off the ground. Once I spun it around due to loose gravel. Granted the buggy had not been softened via cut springs but I don't think I would use them on a buggy again. They are going on my Bug project for sure. |
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