Can't get brake hose loose.

[75-911S]

Any tricks to disconnecting the right rear brake hose at the cross-transmission and rear wheel cylinder connections? Mine are stuck solid.

[scrivyscriv]

Flare nut wrench and a propane torch.

If the lines are broken, a socket on an impact driver will get the nuts off.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[VW_Jimbo]

Flare end wrench on both the hose and line. First try tightening the connection. Then try breaking it free. If you can get the wrenches lined up to “squeeze” them together, it makes it way easier!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Eric&Barb]

[Dan22]

If the lines are really stuck, they are probably very old, and probably should all be replaced for safety.

If you decide to replace, then use whatever hack method like big vice grips to get the fittings apart.

Then smile after you get the new lines and hoses in knowing those can last another 50 years. The anti seize is a good idea too.

Just some more general advice for you....
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1-0900722 die langsame grüne Schildkröte
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=765074

[aquifer]

Kroil. The correct answer is Kroil. The fitting will magically loosen itself while you stand there dumbfounded with the wrench in your hand. I'm only slightly exaggerating. Haha


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Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).

[VW_Jimbo]

[gt1953]

Yep that rust tight is some real deal stuff. It is so good you will never find it on the store shelves. Rusty connections are not fun. Follow some of the methods posted.
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Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[zerotofifty]

Since Brake fluid exposed to air become corrosive be sure that upon reassembly that the threads are dry of fluid AND use a bit of brake system compatible brake grease on the threads. Only use brake system compatible grease, NEVER use regular greases, as if there is contamination of this grease into the brake system, even in small amounts, the rubber brake bits in the cylinders may degrade, with loss of braking. I also use the brake grease ont he threads on the cylinders, the bleeder screws, and coat the cylinder bores with it too. This will go a long ways to prevent corrosion, make bleeder screws easy to open, prevent rusting of the non wetted sections of the bores,
VW in the service manuals calls this Brake Paste in some editions.
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Sorry About That Chief.

Give Peace a Chance.

Words to live by.

[my59]

A few days before I plan on doing work I spray the rusted connections with pb blaster, and repeat every day. Usually works well, tighten loosen, tighten loosen and connections come loose. If they don't, then I break out the Kroil, and let the troublesome joint soak as I keep doing other parts of the task, and come back to the Kroil spots.
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my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget.

[75-911S]

Couldn't fit my impact driver in the space. Got some Kroil coming today. I rember using it ages ago. Will try the tighten-loose method after Kroiling (is that a word?)

[aquifer]

Try Kroil first as I suggested above, but here are some other suggestions:

Will the other two connections come loose from the splitter block? You can cut off the offending line, disconnect the other two lines, and remove the splitter block so you can put it in the vise and use an impact.

You can then cut the line again near the wheel cylinder, remove the drum, and remove the wheel cylinder with the short line still attached. Having access on the bench and/or vise will give you more options.

Worst case scenario, you'd replace the block and the wheel cylinder, and install a new cross over line to the wheel.

As someone else mentioned, it might be time to just replace all the brake lines & hoses. In that case, just cut whatever you have to.
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Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).