2002 EV: Need Help Identifying Part That Has Missing Cap [PCV]

[trunnion]

Link

[rstrube]

Thanks for sending the video, unfortunately when he removes the old connector, the camera angle is terrible. I've watched several other videos as well. Honestly what they are doing doesn't seem to translate to my connector. I'm fishing around for the tab, and I don't "feel" anything...

Super frustrating. I'm sure once I figure it out it will all click.

[rstrube]

Success! Holy shit that is arcane. I had to use some pick tools to scrape out between the connectors (I think some epoxy had gotten between the two pieces).

Not sure what engineer came up with this, but I'm glad I got the first one under my belt!

Sorry for all the questions, what is the recommended way to clean out the PCV connector, WD40 and a rag? The back side is filthy.

Thanks!

[kourt]

Congrats on getting the connector apart. Now you can see why I said it was designed by German idiots.

I always use Berryman B-12 Chemtool for that kind of thing. WD-40 will not get you very far. Use eye protection when using Berryman B-12. Spray it in there. Don't waste time trying to get it super clean. Just get it functioning (it may already be functioning fine). This is a PCV valve, so it's designed to be dirty.

I think it's just a one-way valve, so you can test it by blowing on it from either direction. If it doesn't hold air, don't sweat it. Just try to get the air circuit from the valve cover to the intake hose restored, as it was originally.

kourt

[rstrube]

Well after almost 8 hours of sawing, filing, fighting with the connector I'm back where I started 3 days ago... It was painstaking but I filed away *all* of the PVC pipe and 99% of the epoxy. At least I learned a ton in the process!

@kourt and all: I was curious if you had any guidance to applying the JB Weld. I know it takes about 24 hours to cure, should I hold everything in place with some electrical tape? How thick do you think I should make it, etc.

Also is there a recommended direction for the electrical connector - I was thinking 9 clockwise (towards the left hand side of the vehicle if your facing the engine compartment).

Thanks for all the help and assistance.

[kourt]

JB Weld is very easy to work with if you wait briefly before joining parts. This allows the epoxy to cure a bit and harden, making it more like silly putty than toothpaste. You have to be careful and confident with it if you're going to do that.

Yes, clock that connector so it's easy to get to in the future.

When I did this job, I removed the big 4" air intake elbow to get it done in a space I could control. This lets you clean the air intake mating surface, which will help the JB Weld do its job. I put the elbow gently in a bench vise, mixed the JB Weld, let it sit for five minutes, and then applied it with a popsicle stick and a toothbrush while holding the PCV connector in place. I stood there and listened to the radio for ten minutes while holding it and letting it get its first cure. Then I walked away for six hours, checking it occasionally. I did not tape it. You need gravity to help you and you need good lighting, hence the removal of the air intake tube to a workbench.

kourt

[rstrube]

Any advice on removing the air intake elbow? Sorry for all the questions.

[rstrube]

Just took a closer look, seems like I would just remove the two spring clamps, is this accurate?

[rstrube]

So I see two spring clamps at #1 and #2, but I have no idea how I would remove #3.

[rstrube]

Ok that was easier than I thought. Im just so afraid to make another mistake.

[rstrube]

Quick update, intake hose out of van, final polishing, removed small remnants of old epoxy. Used @kourts technique of apply JB Weld (I used the back of a pen, and a toothbrush) to the PCV connector. It's probably messier than it should be, I was trying to be very careful, but alas...

I angled the electrical connector down and slightly to the left (I tested this beforehand).

Fingers crossed that this will solve my problems . We'll find out tomorrow

I wanted to thank you all for you advice and suggestions!

[kourt]

Bryson and Rombauer Becker are going to be pissed their books are being used for car repair.

That looks very much like my repair.

kourt

[rstrube]

Lol, we had to improvise:)

We were wondering how long to wait before we can use the vehicle? The JB Weld instructions say the product cures in 15-24 hours. We were hoping to leave this evening which would be around 17 hours. Should we error on the side of caution and wait longer?

Rob

[kourt]

You're fine at 17 hours.

This type of PCV failure is extremely common. Don't feel bad about asking questions here--we got a solution very thoroughly documented through your questions and our collective answers.

Kourt

[rstrube]

@kourt: I was thinking of creating a new post for a historical record without all the drama related to my ill-fated PVC pipe hack. I can also properly name the post so it can be more searchable. Think this would be ok/a good idea?

[kourt]

No, the mistakes are important to the process. The drama makes it endearing to read for our vicarious readers. Preserving all of it, as is, in the linear format we lived it, is how this forum works. This is a really great thread.

Now, to break the echo chamber, someone other than me needs to chime in and say, "yes, keep it as-is."

The only thing I would change is to put PCV at the end of the subject line.

kourt

[rstrube]

Done.

Thanks again for all your help!

Rob

[rstrube]

Here is the connector attached to the intake hose elbow. There is still some strain on the connector (which is why I think the original connection broke), but I seems securely on there!

[kourt]

I see someone has already rebuilt your PCV hose (down lower on the hose) with rubber heater hose. That will eventually fail and will need replacement. Not now. Finish your trip. It's not urgent.

kourt

[rstrube]

Ah interesting. Would this be the part I would need to replace it with?

https://www.vwpartsgiant.com/genuine/volkswagen~pcv-valve~021129101d