Newly stalling/sputtering when idling...

[phillything]

Hey all, I know nothing about cars, and was really hoping that my newly acquired '74 would putter around happily for at least a couple of summers before requiring anything! - Oh well.. I did have a local shop replace some steering components and brakes and have been enjoying it.. I finally flat-towed it down to it's (at least summer) resting position, but of course wouldn't you know that now, all of a sudden, it's not holding idle... we'll sometimes it does, but even so seems sort of "sputtery"... like about to stall. It also does the same thing when stopping at a light when out of gear.. WHILE it's running it seems fine.

My mechanic who worked on it is now too far to get to easily, so I'm wondering if anyone has an ideas.. I've looked elsewhere on this forum and read that maybe it could be the "idle cut off switch"? My mechanic told me to try to adjust the idle screw (which I take to be the RED arrow attached)(which I did try both ways) and also the little screw where the throttle cable attaches (GREEN arrow) to try to make it idle "faster".

So obvioulsy you can tell I'm learning... I also added a video of how it sounds at:

https://youtu.be/cvT7sawh25g

In this case it didn't actually stall, but you can hear it's about to..

If this is something you all think a complete newbie can adjust please let me know, otherwise it's a flat tow to a new classic VW mechanic I found in South Jersey.

Thanks!

Jay

[77kafer]

Has anyone adjusted the valves recently? See the sticker (top left side of engine housing in the video)
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Supposed to be 77käfer, but there are no umlauts on an american keyboard

Overheard on 27 June 07, one lady to another when they saw my Harli in a parking lot at West Point, "maybe he found it on the clearance aisle at the Volkswagen dealer"

[lqqkatjon]

I just got my VW thing going after decades...

just some things I am learning or re-learning about the VW 1600.

it is all things you can learn and do. what do you have to loose?

2 things- there is good instruction out there. and make sure you read and understand what your messing with.... there is no idle screw, it is a mixture and a air cutoff.

Look up turning the pict-34 carb. there is info on here and as well as good info all over youtube and internet.

lastly and more importantly, is there is a very big tie together on timing. if your timing is not right, and working, you will struggle with all running and dialing in the carb.

and also vacuum leaks. you want to make sure you are not having any vacuum leaks. carefully spray stuff like intake boots, and carb base with carb spray or a tiny bit of starting fluid and see if you have any rpm change.

adjusting carb and such is easy. IF you have no vacuum leaks, and your timing, distributor is right. and your valves are adjusted

[lqqkatjon]

on another note. I find it very strange you have such a large air gap between the TIN and the engine compartment. I would think that is problematic.

also suprised to see your throttle cable sticking so far out of the carb linkage.

I also see you don't have a vacauum can on the distributor. yet running a pict 34 carb? I was under the impression that is a tough combo to get running well.

[heimlich]

[phillything]

Thank you all so much for all your replies...

@77kafer - that sticker just shows the ideal gaps I think (attached), but the invoice from the "old school" vw mechanic says:

"Replace Necassary Worn And Loose |Electrical Connectors at Engine Ignition Coil, |Carburator And Alternator. Adjust Engine Valves, Clean Valve Covers And Replace Cork Gaskets (2)."

So I think the valves have been adjusted ok...

@heimlick - I'm afraid replacing the distributor is beyond my set of skills at the moment - but @lqqkatjon - I'll have a look at adjusting the "mixture and a air cutoff" again... maybe get it running better and next time I have it in to someone will ask them about the lack of the vacuum can on the distributor.

@lqqkatjon - yes, the big gap in my tins is a concern I know about (another thread here on Samba).. I plan on plugging up my unused heater exhaust ports from the fan shroud and also appending the current tins with some more hand-cut tin or else some oversized rubber. My car is a bit "bent", so I would bet that it was in an accident at some point and that's causing the mis-fit.

[heimlich]

[doublecanister]

hey Phillything..
in your picture, the 'thing' in the side of the carb with the 2 red wires, below the red arrow, is the "anti diesel solenoid" to prevent the engine from running after key off.
It could be bad or very dirty.

Mine was gummed up severely bad, which caused stalling on stops, idle ran fine, driving was ok just stopping killed engine..
Also had major trash in the gas tank, prev owner had 'sealed' the gas tank but it was pre-ethanol sealer so the ethanol 'ate' it and I was getting
purple color fuel and rust bits in the filter to the carb.

Once all that got fixed the problem cleared.

As far as the engine gasket to body, I think you can do it with the engine in, but i recently pulled my engine for some upgrades
(went to dual weber 34 carbs, electric ignition, elect fuel pump and a tri-mil exhaust), this defiantly helped drivability I can get up to 55+ very quickly now vs before.

But, I don't know if I could have done that gasket with the engine in the car, plus the gasket 'channel' needed some adjustment behind the motor which I'd never been
able to get too so was much easier to do engine out.

I had someone talk me thru this but was able to pull the engine myself and do the gasket and re-install with a ATV/motorcycle jack from harbor freight to hold the engine.
Took a bit to do but was doable.

And along with some of the other stuff that was previously mentioned about valves, can't hurt to get all adjusted right.
My last valve adjustment I went with .004
And the missing engine to body gasket shouldn't affect it for testing but I wouldn't drive it like that long, that gasket helps with keeping the hot air and the cold air where they need to be.

Well hope this helps you out, stay on it you'll get it going, research what you can on the Samba there's a wealth of info and knowledge on here, just takes some effort to find the posts and read it all.

T

[/quote]
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2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8

[lqqkatjon]

your underestimating your abilities.

a common saying, is if you think it is the carb. it is probably ignition.

the cut off solenoid is pretty easy to check. 1st, does it get 12V with the key gets turned on. 2nd, with ignition off, take a jumper wire and jump 12v. you should hear it very clearly click.

if still in doubt, it is very simple to unscrew and test outside the carb.

pop off the distributor cap. what does that look like inside?

check the easy stuff 1st.

[phillything]

@lqqkatjon.. ok.. see photos... the solenoid DOES get 12v when ignition is turned on and I attached a photo of the distributor with cap off (though it means nothing to me yet in life).

For step 2, you tell me to take a jumper wire and test 12v.. dumb question here, but is there a tool like my circuit tester (with an coiled cord) where I can clamp one side onto the + battery and touch the pointy side anywhere on the car?

Thank you for your patience.. I'll get there! (someday) (and be sure to help the noobs like me)

PS-@doublecanister - also attached photo of fuel filter (its under the back of the car near rear tire sort of). Seems like it's pretty clean to me...

[doublecanister]

[doublecanister]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=233665&highlight=009++pict34

Here's a link to that 009/pict34 tweak just for fun.

T
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2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8

[lqqkatjon]

just adding info for you.

love your voltage tester. that is my favorite and most used tool I own.

your just verifying if that solonoid works. I don't think your test light will engage it, but maybe? the load of the volt. you could probably have someone turn the key on and off and hear/feel it kinda "click" I doubt that is your problem. it looks too clean/new.

your distributor has what I can tell is empi or equivalent electronic ignition. you DO NOT have points. so your issue obviously is NOT bad or worn points.

that rotor looks OK< but not perfect. new cap and rotor would be something easy and inexpensive to install.

I personally did NOT have luck with the type of electronic ignition you have in that distributor. I installed it, had clearance issues. did not run well... so I removed it and went back to points. the brand I bought were EMPI electronic ignition.

one trick I never tried myself, but others claim works. but is also free to do.... is pull off the air tube from carb. start engine and bring it up to 3000 Rpm or so. then stick your hand on the carb inlet and choke it out air wise. and do that a couple times.... supposedly that helps clean up minor issues with jets? again, just read that trick.. I never tried it.

I would still lean toward timing/distributor issue over your carb.

[phillything]

@lqqkatjon - Thank you!

Actually its funny you mention that air tube... I actually removed that big tube from the top of the carb over to the air filter? - mainly just to see for myself how that butterfly (or whatever) valve works at the top.. I idled it for a while, playing with how much air I would let in, then eventually put the tube back on and it seems to be working much better? I guess time will tell, but for NOW, it seems to be idling along much smoother.

I'll keep this thread in mind and bite off the distributor cap and rotor as I get more comfortable with the car in general... now it's onto the non-working horn and the non-cancelling turn signals so it's a bit safer to drive!

Thanks again!