Replacing an AGM house battery with LiPo 50ah newbie Q

[Alaskaberrys]

Hi, I just arrived in Fairbanks driving our ‘91 VW Westfalia up from SE Alaska to Fairbanks for a shakedown trip after it spent the last 4 years in my shop getting repainted (will post the trip up soon!).

Picking up the wife and soon embarking on a couple week road trip toodeling around Alaska before heading back home to SE Alaska. And, as the old AGM house battery is pretty much toast I found a X2 50ah LiPo4 deep cycle battery at Batteries Plus up in Fairbanks.

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/rv/deep-cycle/12.8/slil12=50dcm=bt

Spendy, but getting these LiPo batteries shipped up to Alaska is a HUGE $$$ PIA and finding one that fits under the drivers seat here was unexpected.

My question is, as I don’t have the Renogy DC/DC charger yet and likely won’t be able to install anyway till back home (that is the plan) what is the danger/issues with installing in with the current ZAMP SOLAR solar charger meant for AGM and conventional batteries? (100w portable panel - GoWesty kit from about 7 years ago. We also have a 100w fixed panel newly installed)

Will it overcharge? The X2 power has a Bluetooth BM system built in - would that protect it?

Or will it just undercharge?

Will it try to burn up the alternator or overheat the wiring from the alternator?

Or do I just be patient and transport the battery back home?

Thought about express mailing the Renogy up but adds even more crazy money to the mix.

Thanks for insights and common sense.

Mark
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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[Crooked Designer]

If it were me (and I'm the impatient type as well) I would figure out a way to change the solar controller settings manually. I would also NOT hook it up to the alternator the way you probably have your AGM hooked up.

Also, quick google search and found a place in Fairbanks that sells solar stuffs. Might be worth checking local places before figuring out a workaround. zero shipping is always the best.

Fairbanks: ABS Alaskan, Inc.
2128 Van Horn Rd, Fairbanks, AK 99701
Hours: Mo-Fr 9am-6pm Sat 9am-3pm
Phone: (907) 452-2002
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'85 Westy full camper, Subaru 2.5L, 5 speed SubiGears + 5speedbus shifter kit

[kamzcab86]

[Crooked Designer]

[Alaskaberrys]

[Alaskaberrys]

[Alaskaberrys]

It does have a 14.5 or 14.7 boost switch I see.

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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)

[fxr]

If you leave that set to 14.5 you should be fine to use it with the LFP battery. The BMS in the LFP should prevent overcharging.
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Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[1988M5]

I'm very shy from posting on this topic as it so simple yet SO dangerous if done incorrectly. (i've been messing with lithium for two decades)
Here's the Cliff Notes on LiPo4;
-When discharged (empty), they will act as a near short circuit to any power inputs. That includes a set of jumper cables from a different source, or A-B switch from a charged starting battery in the same car. It's all bad news if you do that as it will over current the cables and the "C" rate of the new battery. Also a cars alternator will "TILT" trying to supply the energy. That's half the reason for a DC-DC converter is to limit the current flow from the cars alternator and/or starting battery.
-The charging side, yes you can put energy into a Lifepo4 with rudimentary means but it's far from ideal, possibly dangerous. Again, this is where the DC-DC convertor works well. Lithium batteries need no "float "charge. Once it hits the highest voltage it can withstand and the current drops to nearly zero, stop and unplug. I suggest lowering that "highest voltage" down to give some wiggle room. If the charge voltage is higher than its limits, possible fire and definitely damage to the battery. Never rely on the BMS to protect this.

BK
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1991 tin top GL
2002 Winnebago Vista. VW VR6 24V Eurovan front clip powered class C 21' RV.
Some BMWs.

[fxr]

[1988M5]

You're not understanding my warnings. "it's just solar" no buddy you need to understand the lithium battery and abide by its parameters strictly. Large or small capacity battery bank doesn't matter. Baby fire is still a fire or "thermo event" (that's what we call them at work.) that you can't put out because it brought along the o2.

Stay safe silly folks,

BK
_________________
1991 tin top GL
2002 Winnebago Vista. VW VR6 24V Eurovan front clip powered class C 21' RV.
Some BMWs.

[fxr]

[Alaskaberrys]

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

I will definitely be disconnecting it from the alternator feed to avoid any issues for this trip and untill I get the DC/DC controller installed.

And turns out the local solar guys Crooked Designer mentioned had a Renology Wanderer 30 AMP 12V PWM that wasn’t too expensive and has battery type selections. I can swap out with the ZAMP until we install at DC/DC charger down the road and rely on solar for charging and perhaps a lithium 12ov charger when we have power available.

Thank you Sambista’s for insights, experience and knowledge!
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'91 Westfalia, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2.1L 2wd Auto
'91 T3 Syncro Doka, Escorial Green 1.9L TD AAZ “Gremian” (to provoke, irritate, exasperate, vex...)