Replacing fuel line from tank ALL the way back to transmission.

[omegared]

Long story short... I tried to restore a rusty gas tank... it didn't work. Suspected obstruction in fuel line.

Engine kept stuttering and stalling and acting like it was starving for gas. Checked fuel filter, not that bad, maybe a little dirty. Tried blowing the line with air from the outlet of the tank back, ALL SORTS OF RUST AND BLACK CRAP COME OUT. I drain out the gas and it is clearly rusty and no bueno. Rinse the tank a little, try again with fresh gas. Runs ok for a little bit and then right back to the stuttering.

So last night I tried just running out of a gas can just hooked directly to the fuel pump. Fires right up, runs fine. No stutter, no nothing. That fuel line is plugged somewhere in the metal line between the tank outlet and the transmission (where people usually put the fuel filter.)

What's the best way to reroute this line? Or clean it? Anyone had this happen before?
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Volkswagens don't like trees, make all necessary efforts to keep your VW from meeting one.

1966 Bus
1976 Bus
1971 Standard Beetle

[slayer61]

I'm an old electrician, so I used an old electrician trick. I ran a "fish tape" through the fuel line. Bicycle brake cable, string trimmer line or some such thing. Also used a filter after the fuel line exits the tunnel.
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[volky1970]

Omegared,

Some people here where I live run a wire or cable like Slayer61 states and connect it to a drill to open the way then use an air compressor to blow out the crud.
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1970 Beetle Turbo 2109cc MS II EFI, W/M Injection, Intercooler, FORD Wasted Spark Coilpack, 48lb. Injectors.

[74 Thing]

Take an accelerator cable and clip the end so the strand will open then chuck it in the drill and run it in reverse. Spray carb cleaner in and run the cable through over and over. Then take a small section of fuel hose and place it on each end. On one side place a bottle to catch the debris and on the other use an air compressor to blow out all the nastiness.

[Bobs67vwagen]

All good advice from folks who posted answers. In addition I have also used the thickest size of of bendable wire that will fit inside the fuel line with a point on the end and work it in until you feel the obstruction. Then work it back and forth carefully to try and dislodge the blockage. Use pb blaster liberally with this method to help with loosening it up. Good luck

[dennismcd707]

The previous owner re-routed my fuel line. I've had no issues because of it. Many folks have told me that my set-up isn't ideal. I don't care and like it anyway.

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1971 Super Beetle, 1776, dual Weber's, roller crank, modified large valve heads on match ported intakes, 9.2 to 1 compression, close ratio trans, lowered suspension, 4 wheel disc brakes, truss bar and other goodies. Car has over 370,000 actual miles, and counting. (RIP 1970 Beetle/Baja, 1986 GTI, 1999 Jetta, 2002 Jetta)

[Cusser]

[jinx758]

Unless the gas tank is corrected the rust flakes will continue to corrupt the sock, filter, carb bowl, needle/seat, & jets.
The black crud may be the inner part of the fuel hose.

Kits are available to de-rust & seal gas tank, take it to a radiator shop, or replace it.

Be thorough, what a P.I.T.A. !

Good luck ... stay safe

jinx
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" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor

[clockworkbox]

I used the information from the post below. I ran it from the back to the front and it was not bad at all. I ran it out the front, used a simple tubing bender for the front outlet and pulled it from the back until it lined up. I used a broom handle and flashlight to get it lined up. Get a helper if you can.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=252464
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'69 Beetle (pieces)
Learning the hard way is still learning...

[Rome]

In the early 2000's I bought a '69 Beetle parts car which was solid enough to prepare to drive it. The original metal fuel line in the tunnel had a leak internally. I followed the procedure from the early '60's factory repair manual to run a new fuel line along the outside of the tunnel (within the car) on the passenger side. Drilled thru the Napolean's hat, then held it up off the floor a few inches using plastic "P" clips that I fastened to the tunnel side with sheet metal screws. Ran the line under the rear seat, then crossed it over the tunnel to the driver's side of the tunnel, and finally out of the body close to where the original fuel line came out. Grommets at each of the body/frame holes.

[Marks_Bug]

While we're talking fuel lines, can somebody tell me (I know, I should probly search this...) how you do a fuel filter? I've heard all the warnings about having one in the engine compartment so where do you put it where it's easy to service? And how do you change it out without getting gas everywhere? Can you just clamp off the rubber line with vice grips while you change the filter? Do you install a stop-cock in-line to facilitate filter changes?
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I'd be perfect if I wasn't so humble

Current driver: '74 Standard "Sun Bug" Others owned- 1959 Beetle, 1959 Beetle, 1969 Beetle, 1971 Type 3, 1978 Bus

[jinx758]

@ Marks_Bug

I'd recommend maybe a broken pencil on each serrated jaw of Vice Grips to prevent weakening the hose, or a lengthwise cut down a dowel or broomstick then making it short.

I found these years ago at a flea market & paid $5usd for both.
I use them all the time.

The correct style clamp makes a huge difference too.

Best to you ... stay safe

jinx

_________________
" It's not valuable unless you learn something from an experience. " Henry Ford

It's not unlike the same difference ...

My Craigslist rescued 100 footer :
1971 Standard Bug
1776cc dual port
034 distributor
38mm EGAS Carburetor