Dead alternator - Type 4 bay, cant find a new one.

[jmstu76]

I purchased a new 55 amp from bus depot. Pretty easy deal. Swapped over the backing plate. They even sell a new harness from the alt to the VR.
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James

'76 Deluxe Sage Green Westy
2258 cc GD case 78mm CW crank, 2.0 H-beam rods 5,325” 22mm pin, JE forged pistons with 15cc dish, JE rings, type 11 clearanced oil pump, CB Eagle 2205 Type-2 “Torque Special” hydraulic cam with matched lifters fed by CB Dual Weber 40 IDF MX with 6” foam air filters, currently 55 idle, 130 main, 200 air correction, 32 mm venturis. 27in General Grabber AT2 All Terrains, Berg Shifter, stock '76 exhaust HPC Ceramic Coated. 11/18/2020

[SGKent]

[75 Westy FI noob]

SGK, I’ve pulled the battery out to charge it..

Once it’s back to 12.5 I will put it back and recheck those fuses. I had put the leads on metal either side of the fuse. Maybe battery was too low (11.2) or .. user error.

Double checked the Diagram… I think maybe the ignition switch (15) as you suggested.

I found Ratwell’s guide to Alternator and VCM ..

Thank you Wagen that helps clarify.
Hoping it’s just a dead Black 15 from the Ignition Switch.

Will have a fresh look tomorrow w full battery.


I’d like to meet the guy who placed the fuse box where it is.. and the battery…

[75 Westy FI noob]

[SGKent]

[75 Westy FI noob]

[Wildthings]

Look at the wiring schematic and see which fuses are fed by the #15 circuit and with the switch on test one or more of them to see if it/they have power.

[75 Westy FI noob]

WT, I tested them and found no voltage, but my battery was quite low.

Plan to retest with my now charged battery. But I expect I would have seen something. I will retest tho. I dropped the fusebox and the wires behind it look good. nothing burned. Will check for voltage on the fuse leads and let you know.

I do have a laminated wiring diagram.
Don't want you all to think I'm not lookin.

[SGKent]

did you confirm voltage at S9?
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[75 Westy FI noob]

Yes.. rechecked with strong battery and have plenty of V on S9.
No lights on the dash….

Not feeling a click in the switch from OFF to ON…
But there’s 12.5 at S9 today… dark Inst Panel.

Next to check is Black 15 at ‘top’ of S11 … eh?

[SGKent]

yes. If you do not have voltage there, the ignition switch is bad. Normally it is the electrical portion but there have been a thread, maybe 2, where the blade that goes into it from the key portion was worn out. Switch failures are common. The plastic cracks and then the back does not make good contact. Lots of folks here used to carry a spare with them it can be so common. I don't know what brands are the best these days. It is a simple job on a later bay to swap the electrical portion.

I think 1975 uses 111 905 865 L. 71-74 used a different one. The part number 171 905 865 is supposed to be the same as 111 905 865 L

Even Amazon carries the URO one. https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-111-905-865L/dp/B0066SFV72
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[wagen19]

[SGKent]

[wagen19]

Ahh. thanks for claryfication. The added switch and the hotwire to coil makes it running...
It seems, that´s the common and typical way or style of american repairs of electrical systems. There are many US cars that had arrived here in germany with "repairs" like that.
Not finding the root cause or broken part and adding plenty of "individual solutions". >> and later confusion!
I admit, on a trip through the desert Gobi, and no new ignition switch on hand, I would do the same and even be proud, if it helps to finish the trip. BUT...

[75 Westy FI noob]

Wagonmeister,
I'm in the Midwest .. not far off from the Gobi. The bus was flaming out randomly going down the road so I hot wired the coil. Not wanting to get into the ignition switch and front end wiring, I've continued to run it. And it's cool, not to mention anti-theft benefits...

I think I burned up my switch by listening to the radio (engine off/ IgSwitch on) for hours on end. Wont be a problem anymore bc I've run a hot wire to my stereo for keyless operation since.

SGK,
So, I've got to pull the steering wheel off and drill the switch and all that good stuff ? I found a Ratwell write up on it the other day. .. there’s another one where the switch has to be drilled to release a retaining spring… would rather not.

[SGKent]

no. Nothing like that at all that the early bays go thru. On a 75 and later bay it is removed quite easy. If I have time I will look it up.

Here are the instructions. You can unplug the harness from it, and plug it into the new one to test everything before replacing it. On my 1977 there is a plug near the base of the column that can get bumped and cause the same symptoms. If 1975 has that be sure to push it together in case that is the issue.

Mark the steering before you begin. Put some blue tape on the steering wheel so you don't put it back 180 degrees off.

Maybe 30 minute job as I recall.

https://www.ratwell.com/mirror/bclausen/How_to_files/IgnSw/
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[75 Westy FI noob]

[SGKent]

[75 Westy FI noob]

Looks like theres a small plastic retaining tang under it.. but I plan to try.

I see a white/black wire on wire plug thats not on the schematic.
Wonder what that is ..

Speaking of .. i know 30 is hot, 15 is switched, and 50is start… what’s this ‘X’ near the black/yellow? I suppose it's just to match the mark on the plug.

[jlrftype7]