1974 Super Beetle Ignition Switch Issue

[LeeFred]

We have a 74 SB and having an issue with the ignition. When the switch is connected to the lock cylinder assembly, it feels like the key doesn't turn far enough to allow the switch to make the connection to start the car. If I turn the key as far as it will go and then jiggle it hard, push on it, manipulate it various ways, it will eventually start the car. If I remove the switch from the lock assembly and turn it with a screwdriver, it turns the engine over.

What is most likely at fault here...the lock assembly or the switch? This is the second switch that we have tried, with the first one being what was in the car when we bought it. I am thinking switch because of the garbage that is being manufactured these days. However, is there something that can be done with the lock assembly to make it turn just a wee bit more?

[Cusser]

I remember similar on a friend's 1972 Super. The tumbler part was not fully seated into the housing/electrical portion. Getting it fully locked into place was trial and error, and a hassle.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Ggiomett]

The issue is most likely with the lock cylinder assembly. What you’re describing suggests it’s not rotating the ignition switch far enough to complete the circuit. This is common with older VWs where the metal tab or the plastic surround inside the lock gets worn.

You can confirm this by measuring the travel distance of the switch tab with and without the cylinder. A slightly misaligned or worn tab in the lock can keep you just short of “start.” Replacement or gentle modification of the lock mechanism might be your fix.

[ashman40]

Two things to check/adjust…

1) The metal portion of the lock mechanism that extends into the electrical switch, is it bent/twisted? Over time this can happen. You should be able to gentle twist the metal portion back so it is strait.
You may even apply this to a straight part. Tweaking it such that you get a few more degrees of electrical switch rotation. Just be careful you don’t break the lock portion.

2) Many aftermarket electrical switches are lower quality. The contact point for the #50 starter circuit is very small. On a new switch, it may be necessary to press the external brass male terminal further into the body of the switch so it makes better contact internally. The amount to press in is a fraction of a mm. Go a liitle bit at a time and test. Press the terminal in too far and you will bind up the internal contacts.
This applied to the ‘71-‘72 switches which were straight switch bodies. The external male tab was the exposed part of the internal contact. But I think by ‘74 VW changed the electrical switch body. I’m not sure how pushing the terminal deeper into the switch body will impact internal contacts.

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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[LeeFred]

I checked the old lock cylinder, and it looks like the straight piece has a very slight twist to it. I just happen to have a new lock cylinder, so I put it in the lock assembly and gave the key a twist. The starter engaged immediately, like it should. So that slight twist in the old cylinder was enough to keep it from engaging the contacts firmly.

The reason I didn't try this before is because the 74 was 400+ miles away from me, so I couldn't get a good look at it. Once it was brought back for me to work on it to get it ready for Hot August Nights in Reno, I started tackling these little problems. Taking the locking mechanism apart was very simple, and once it was all apart, I could see how it operates. Thanks to @ashman40 for suggesting the straight piece. Not sure if I would have taken such a close look at it to see the twist in it.

[ashman40]

Glad you got it working!

A tip: If you haven't already installed a Hard Start Relay on the #50 circuit to the Starter Solenoid I would highly recommend it. Just use a small Bosch-style 30A relay under the rear seat. When using aftermarket ignition switches (or even OE switches) the higher current flow thru the #50 ignition switch contacts will burn the contacts within months/years. Added a relay that only requires 0.1A to energize will allow those internal contacts to last decades.

The same applies to the #15 circuit running to the fuse box. Adding a relay between the ignition switch and the fuse box will reduce the current flowing thru the #15 contacts of the ignition switch allowing them to work for years. Even if the relay contacts burn up instead of the ignition switch contacts... SPST/SPDT Bosch style relays are much cheaper to replace than VW ignition switches.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[LeeFred]

[ashman40]