Jeremiah's 73 412 restoration project

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]

Ok, well I in the meantime have talked to my machine shop vw guy about rebalancing it and he wasn't really set up but could send me with a crank to the place that does his balancing or something...but he then says he's got piles of fans if I want to come get one and can have one.

So I saw you response and called him back and he said I could come look through them all I want.

If I find out they are all stamped at tdc then I'm good to go.If not I will just grab a new fan.

I also have a type 2 bus parts guy real close and I can see if he has any fans I can look through if I'm indecisive with what the machine shop has to look through. He said he has piles of them, so we'll see.

I might be able to do that tomorrow so I'll post an update afterwards. Thanks again for the help.

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]

Well after climbing through an attic full of vw parts and looking at a good 10+ fans I can conclude that the VW emblem is not an indicator of tdc.

In fact I was able to find a total of 5 since so many where rusted or painted I couldn't even find the stamp on them.Of those five three where at bdc one was at 3 o'clock and I believe one was at 9 o'clock as well ...

So it seems like it is by chance that the ones you have are lined up at tdc...
It's a 1 in 4 chance.

So the pulley was likely stamped on the line all in the same spot, but then that was taken and matched to the aluminum fan. At this point there was a 25% chance that it could end up at tdc so not surprising that you have some and a good chance there are a lot out there that it does line up

But I would conclude that it is not an indicator.

I got a new fan. It has the 0 and the type 4 timing mark.Its in the sonic cleaner...I will paint it without taking it apart and move forward....

Moral of the story...DONT DISCONNECT THE FAN FROM THE PULLEY.

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]

Finished the engine today! Just need to put the exhaust on and it's ready to mate to transmission and install....

I am back to where I was 10 years ago and in need of the first part I ever tried to find.. if anyone has one let me know. I had some ideas of using other materials but it is a tricky piece because it has to flex into place and have the flat section where it is sandwiched between the intake and lid.

[Jeremiah Berger]

Man I've been waiting on fuel hose... ordered the wrong stuff. Waited more..got it today and everything is all ready to go and finally got everything ready to do break in and hoping to do it this weekend. I am currently home with three kids for the summer 4,9&11 so I'm super busy but committed to getting this thing driving this summer

But while I'm doing my summer thing of boating and fishing with the kids we decided to get our recreational lobster license and get a couple traps this year

Well this is too crazy of a coincidence to not share ...

These are the tags for our lobster traps.

Also some pics of progress...

[Jeremiah Berger]

Well it's not going so well ..

I am not getting signal to the injectors during cranking.

I tested them by disconnecting the fuel rail and have the ignition on and open the throttle to see that the injectors are working when throttle is engaged but nothing during cranking...

The wiring harness has been gone over completely and repaired correctly where needed.

All the connections have been double checked. Grounds are connected

The injector points have been adjusted and within spec.

Really at a loss as to why it's not working.

Is there a way to further diagnose what is going on?

[raygreenwood]

[Jeremiah Berger]

[quote="raygreenwood"]

[Pepperbilly]

My wife and I were in northern BC and the Yukon for a month so I wasn’t following the internet very much. Your progress looks wonderful!

Getting these engines to run right away after major work is a challenge. Ask me how I know. Good that you found the loose trigger points plug. I actually had to install a new set of triggers that I luckily found, NOS, from a guy close by that had stored away from the 80’s! I did use my original wiring harness that I made some repairs to. I found it’s the connections that you really have to pay attention to.

Other problems I ran in to… I had to rebuild my MPS with a new diaphram kit from Tangerine Racing. Also the head temp sensors are tough to source for correct good ones. Finally found a NOS Porsche sensor that fit the bill. Bad sensors will drive you crazy. Then also for a while I had a cracked spark plug that gave me fits. One of the last issues was very fine debris that contaminated my original fuel injectors. Thought I had cleaned the fuel tank well enough. Nope. Had to open it on top and vacuum out those silty particles. At that point I ordered 4 new SMP injectors and never looked back. I do have a box of fuel filters and do change without hesitation if they show any debris.

Took me a few weeks to get it all sorted. Wonderful outcome though…purrs like a kitten and Goldie is such a joy to drive.

Good luck getting her running. It may take a while but you will get there.

Bill

[Jeremiah Berger]

[Jeremiah Berger]

Today was a success! Got it started and broke in the cam.

Set the timing and got it running well for the most part. Well, really good on the top end but definitely still have to dial in the idle.

It seems as if my TVS needs adjustment. Even though I've set it and double checked the adjustment.

The symptom is a high idle...or more or less an intermittent idle...but not a quick pulse like I've dealt with before it's more like it just doesn't want to drop down to idle some times and takes up to 20-30 seconds to drop down to what is then a low idle that gets it pulsing a bit ...

It also seems to sometimes drop when I manually return the throttle, stronger then the spring..but sometimes it doesn't.

I am suspicious of the TVS still and think maybe it needs adjustment still.
I used a voltmeter to check resistance between 12&17 and adjusted it to just as throttle opens but did that with the throttle body out of car and it seems that with everything hooked up and running that the throttle doesn't quite return that far on normal operation.. at least that is my theory to test for now..

It seems as if the engine is creating so much vacuum that it doesn't allow the throttle to close all the way.

I know the TVS doesn't necessary solely control the idle speed and could be other influence and maybe that has more to do with it then the TVS itself.

I swear I think have a good understanding of this fi system, but when it comes to the idle it hurts my head and seams like Vudu magic is needed sometimes.


Other than that it had no leaks, no smoke, no ticks or weird noises..oil pressure good. Charging good. Overall a good day.


Plan on doing some more fine tuning and try to get it on the road next and test the rebuilt transmission...

[raygreenwood]

A couple items:

1. In reality, the TVS has nothing to do with idle unless either due to adjustment the forked switch is in contact with the on/enrichment pin and even then it has to be out of the padlomg area for the wiper arm tip.....which would/could happen if the throttle is not closing all the way. But if that is happening, the real cause of idle issue is slightly open throttle.

The TVS is an enrichment function only when it's moving.

2. The 1.7L throttle bodies have always had some issues with closing all the way with age.
What I have had to do is make sure the throttle cable is taut and also add some spring tension. If you leave the cable slightly loose to combat this....it will drive like it has a flat spot.
The other item is that with the throttle body off, look at it with light behind it. I have found that with age and a little wear, I have to crack the screws on the throttle plate and be sure it's centered.

3. So, the issue with that trigger points adjusting tool....more precisely, my issue with it. Somewhere in the forums I have added some of this opinion in a discussion but I have never actually spoken out for or against this tool. Because.....even though I think it has some issues, I do not yet know if these issues make a big difference or cause a problem.

The issues I see:

That tool is basically mimicking the MAJOR circle of the shaft along with its 180°cam. This part I do not see as wrong. At the very least it allows you to set up/adjust to account for points rubbing block wear.

But, to get the combination of moving point LIFT, duration/dwell and TIMING correct....takes a little more thought.

Part of the issue I see is that the tool guides off of the center fork of the points plate. But, the distributor does not only or mostly guide off of this center slot or fork. If you swap the same set of point between three different distributors with the same part # and then turn the engine around by hand using a test light to see if each point is opening/closing in the same reference to crank and valve position....you will see variation. Is it enough to be q big problem? No not q big problem but it depends on what other issues it is stacked up with.
The other issue is that the jig sets both points up the same....but they actually wear at different angles and rates because one opens trailing and the other leading.

This angle change can change lift and dwell. Ray

[Jeremiah Berger]

Okay I think I will focus first on #2, it seems as if this is certainly a part of the issue. I considered a tighter spring, and will add one.

There is definitely a lot of what you explained going on with the throttle cable force and had been playing with that.

I'll keep trying to adjust that and keep you updated with my findings.

For the trigger points I see what you mean especially the part of where the tool mounts vs where it mounts in individual distributors...

For the most part I barely made any adjustments to them. I believe they where pretty close to being in spec when I originally adjusted them 10 years ago ..and this time around I just checked them after I cleaned up and serviced the distributor. They where still good.

Just of curiosity what would be a common symptoms of the trigger points NOT being adjusted correctly?

[Pepperbilly]

Nice job on dressing out that engine. By the way, I noticed you painted the cooling fan housing. What product did you use?

So have been thinking about the idle inconsistency. I noticed from your photos you did not secure your intake runner fabric connectors with any clamps. When I put my engine together I paid special attention to the runners. I had to realign the runners to the throttle intake plenum because they were off quite a bit. I modified attachment mount holes and repositioned everything to get a perfect align. I finished it by using sealant on both ends of the fabric connectors and adding some clamps. This assured me of a tight leak free intake. I have nice stable and consistent idle. I would double check that on yours. Just another suggestion…

Bill

[Jeremiah Berger]

Well soon after my last post I had a major discovery that one of my injector seals had fallen off in the excitement of getting the injectors working and the car running.

After fixing that massive vacuum leak and starting over that switched to low intermittent idle...played around a bunch just trying to get an idle and having it crash out whenever it would ever come down....

Decided to go back over everything and check for leaks and check each part of the system..

I hadn't checked my MAP sensor since doing the whole rebuild and should have probably checked it before putting it all together. Although I am suspicious that I gave it the final blow with alot of vacuum or a backfire when trying to original get it started ( I actually hooked up the wire wrong for. A few cranks and backfired before realizing.)

Anyway the sensor did not hold vacuum very much at all at this point and upon disassembly found that it has a big tear in the diaphragm like they all get ...

Glad I figured it out, but now what? Looked around and seems like someone made some diaphragm at one point but I don't see any available for sale now?
And the price for a refurbished one is absolutely insane..

What are my options? Is there someone I can send it to to get it fixed?

Obviously a used one is likely shit or on its way out.

And a repaired one is going to then need to be dialed in and adjusted right?

Any suggestions on how to proceed?

[Pepperbilly]

[Jeremiah Berger]

Thanks for the feedback bill. Yes the MPS appears to be original and had the original rivets that I removed. I did mess with the adjustment screw when I was trying to figure out if I could get the diaphragm off of the center hardware wich I'm guessing is part of the instructions and parts?but I counted the threads and returned it to where it was.

I did notice that there is a secondary screw that the screw goes into and that had moved upon reinstalleding it, so hopefully I didn't move that screw unknowingly I'm pretty sure I returned it to where it was. But I should probably get the tool, and imagine that as to either hold the one while turning the other or are there two adjustments?

I had already seen that kit and couldn't find it on their website so I sent them an email. If anyone has a link for the kit on their site that would be great. The one I had was expired . Thanks

[Jeremiah Berger]

Well that's a bummer.....this is the email I got back


Hi Jeremiah,
That's an image from my old website.
I produced the repair kits for more than 10 years, but last year my stamping supplier stopped making the diaphragms for me. I'm currently working on making them available again before the end of this year.
Chris Foley



Hopefully I can find something else or an old one to use for now or maybe someone has an extra kit that they didn't use ...