Drum brake problems

[EVfun]

Thank you for posting the bit about the pedal position and dual circuit brakes. I would add the it would be a good idea to test your dual circuit brake function if you are running disc brakes or other non-stock brakes. Once you have good brakes do one last bleed of the front and make sure the pedal doesn’t hit the floor with the bleeder open. Repeat the test with the rear brakes.

I converted my buggy to silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. This is the purple stuff, not compatible with any other brake fluid including DOT 5.1. Since it’s a little thicker I had good luck with a one person bleed. I put a line from the wheel cylinder into a container of fluid and just pumped with the bleeder cracked open until the line had no bubbles in the upper half after releasing the pedal, then closed the bleeder. It was so easy. When I tried the same with the clutch circuit I couldn’t get a consistent pedal. After some head scratching and asking here it was determined I had a bad, brand new, master cylinder. I replaced it with a Wilwood unit and the clutch was an easy 1 person bleed too.

I recommend asking questions if you have problems bleeding brakes and this thread shows why. With a good description of the problem someone has likely seen it and already figured out the issue. These old cars have seen many changes and abuse over the years and we suffer from quality issues with new parts too.
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[KTPhil]

That manual excerpt leaves out the final step on the right hand side. If you alter the pushrod length to get the proper pedal-to-bulkhead distance of 200mm, you have to then readjust the pedal stop plate AGAIN to obtain the proper freeplay (5-7mm at the pedal tip).
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Current Fleet:
- '71 Fastback
- '69 Westfalia
Retired:
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- '65 Beetle (x2)
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