First VW is 69 resurection

[tasb]

You pull the engine back a couple of inches then lower it a couple inches, then pull back a few inches so that by then the clutch has cleared the bell housing then lower enough for the engine to clear the rear apron which should be raised and on stands You only need to remove the rear most tin or breast plate. On Beetles I like to remove one wheel and slide the engine out towards that side.
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Roads Scholar
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Member# 2059

[Cusser]

[Bobs67vwagen]

What tasb said is how it will work. It is tight but as you pull the engine back a bit it will eventually come back far enough to clear the studs on the bottom. At that point you keep an eye on he trans splined Input shaft and keep working it back until just clear of that. Now you can lower a little and you will find the generator nut getting hung up on the rear apron. So you jack up a little and tilt the engine a little to clear the apron while you jack down slowly. Another set of hands at this point makes it a little easier to accomplish this. All this that has been said by everyone will make sense when you do it. Good luck-Bob

[mercsim]

Its out! It came out easier than I expected. Advice from tasb of taking a wheel off saved 6 inches of jacking. Everyone's comments helped:) That's my buddy Jim cleaning it

Is that a stock VW clutch? It doesn't look like the ones I usually see on YouTube. All that oil cooler stuff will come off. Anyone want to trade a stock oil cooler for it? A bunch of white stuff came out of that exhaust port when I pulled it (still on the car)). It doesn't look good. Thoughts?

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Scott

'69 Sunroof

[Bobs67vwagen]

That is the early style clutch with the ring in the center which uses the early release bearing. In the 70s they removed the center ring and redesigned the release bearing. Glad it worked out for you. Bob

[Cusser]

[tasb]

Cusser, would you advise continuing to use that cooler even with all that fin damage?
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Roads Scholar
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

Member# 2059

[Cusser]

[Bobs67vwagen]

Cusser in all the years that I have fooled with these cars I have never used an auxiliary cooler like that one. Looking at this one, my first thought would be that it would partially block the flow of air into the fan housing. Secondly I would think that the air that flowed down to the heads would be warmer because some of it flowed through the cooling fins of the cooler. Because you have this setup on your car and live in Arizona, could you educate me on how it works? Thanks Bob

[Cusser]

[Bobs67vwagen]

Thanks for the explanation. Driving your car through the heat of the southwest US would be enough proof to me that the pictured system works. I was just not familiar with the placement of the cooler so near the fan intake opening. Thanks Bob

[Cusser]

[mercsim]

My plan is to return it to as stock as practical. I want the original carb and single port manifold. I want the oil cooler back inside the shroud where it was designed to be. This won't be a daily driver. In fact, I'm getting wimpy in my old age and will only drive it in fair weather. I won't drive it if its hot or cold. My airplanes don't have heat or AC so they also only get flown in mild weather. Fortunately, in Arizona, we have great weather most of the year except the few months in the summer. We still go out early in the mornings and do stuff from around 5 to around 8 when it starts to get hot. By then, I'm ready to be in the AC working on indoor hobbies

I'll post photos when I get the intake stuff off. It will certainly be available. I would love to trade someone a 30/31 carb and single port manifold.

This is a game dressing hoist. It made it pretty easy to load and unload by myself.

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Scott

'69 Sunroof

[OldSchoolVW's]

[Bobs67vwagen]

I like that hoist set up. I'm sure my wife would not mind one of those on her Honda CRV!.

[mercsim]

Thank you for the input Tom I'll see how bad the fan shroud is butchered when I get in there. I think I'll have to buy an oil cooler anyways. I have actually been looking at the conversion parts. A stock Doghouse setup would not bother me.

I'm a Test Pilot and EAA Technical Counselor and fly/help lots of people with Homebuilt airplanes. It always amazes me how much people think 'modifications' make things 'better'.

My wife and I (both Aerospace Engineers) were just talking about this subject this morning.

The hoist is actually pretty cool for as simple as it it. It breaks down real easy. The thrust bearing makes it nice to pick up a motor and just swing it to where it needs to go. The cart will get modified so it can be used off either side or the traditional hitch location. The cart gets used around the airport pretty regularly.
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Scott

'69 Sunroof

[OldSchoolVW's]

[mercsim]

Its a game hoist. I got this one at Sheels but Amazon has them. I paid $150 cash and carry. I wanted it now and didn't mind spending the wife's money

https://www.amazon.com/HME-Products-Truck-Hitch-Ho...amp;sr=8-7



https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Receiver-Hunting-...&psc=1
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Scott

'69 Sunroof

[mercsim]

This came up on Marketplace in my area. Can anyone tell me if it's stock and correct for the 1500? What is the extra little heat exchanger for? Th aftermarket one I removed (single exhaust) didn't have anything like that.

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Scott

'69 Sunroof

[Bobs67vwagen]

Those connect to the big hoses that come off of the fan shroud. There should be one on each side. There is a metal cylinder that inserts into those that sticks up thru the engine tin and the hose from the fan housing connects to that. if no one posts a picture for you I will get a picture for you tomorrow.