Anyone ever use Steel Seal to stop overheating/coolant loss?

[damagd]

I have a 1.9 that is losing coolant out of the top of the overflow tank, and I can see bubbling in the expansion tank when running. Sniff test was negative for combustion gasses, but I think it was a false negative. I know the fire rings were replaced two years ago to address the same problem, and it seemed to have worked for a while. The problem has gotten progressively worse. I think it's internal because I see no evidence of leaking around either head and I've done pressure tests when the engine was both hot and cold and found no leaks. So probably either the fire rings, green o-rings, black o-rings or cracks in the head. It has a new thermostat and water pump also. I just dumped two bottles of subaru coolant conditioner in, but not sure if it's going to work. I'm not looking for a permanent fix, just a band aid to get me through a 1,000-mile trip and up some pretty steep mountains in North Carolina next week at which point. I'm going to pull the engine for either a subie swap of a GW 2.3

The product supposedly fixes head gasket leaks, cracked heads, cracked blocks, warped heads, etc. Claims it won't clog the rad, thermostat, or heater core.
https://steelseal.com/

I used it on a Jeep Commander that was overheating and losing coolant, and it fixed the problem for about 10,000 miles, so I'm optimistic. But the vanagon cooling system is kind of a different layout, so I'm not sure.

[jlrftype7]

I'd run with the Subaru stuff you already have added, and see how it goes. Does REALLY sound like you're getting Combustion Gas into the Coolant system from your observations.
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[DanHoug]

before you dump some magic schmoo in, make darn sure you have good, proven, pressure cap.
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60% of what you find on the internet is wrong, including this post.

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[zerotofifty]

Some products are solvent type things that soften seals, others are a goo that plug leaks. The issue with the goo stuff is it gets everywhere and is difficult to remove later, this includes the radiator and heater(s) Some say it coats these other parts.

Give the subaru stuff time to work. as last ditch measure use the goo, which I assume the steel seal is??? Bars Leak is a goo type product, it leaves goo every place.

as other noted make sure your pressure cap is good. bubbling can mean boiling too.

I have used Bars Leak in another car it did fix a leak.

If you use a goo product consider a chemical radiator flush just prior to your planned rebuild, so in as to clean up the system well before you install the new engine. I also recommend a Prestone flush n fill garden hose adaptor for coolant flushing, a must if you use a chemical flush. you don't want to leave any trace of a chemical flush long term in the system. I know a fool that left a chemical flush in his system in a truck for a couple months, ( against the instructions that said to flush immediately after warm up and coll down) and he ended up with a destroyed heater core, leaked all over, the stuff is acidic!!!

So give the subaru stuff time to work
Carry a bottle of the goo with you on the trip, even kf the subaru stuff appears to work, just in case, and carry spare antifreeze in distilled water, just in case.

But if this is a bad case of head seal failure, Id consider driving a different rig on this 1000 mile trip Hate to have a break down 500 miles from home.

Consider a compression test. if it passes, you may be fine, if it fails, then drive another rig on that trip. AGAIN, DO A COMPRESSION TEST, a quick easy test. Do it hot, not cold.
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[Wildthings]

Your head studs may be failing from corrosion.

[Ahwahnee]

It's easy to imagine how a sealant (or even pepper or a raw egg) might plug a coolant leak, even one that was leaking coolant into a cylinder.

But I don't see how a sealant would prevent a combustion gas leak out of a cylinder.

For one thing, the pressure is going the wrong way for a sealant to work and for another the pressure is much greater than what occurs in the cooling system. Don't think compression numbers like 135 psi, imagine ignition pressures from superheated nitrogen that are so great they can move your 2-ton lump down the road at 70 mph.

[dhaavers]

[Wildthings]

[damagd]

Thanks for the replies. I have tried several blue caps. Blau and generic, and none of them solved the issue. I'm at about 80 miles on the coolant conditioner. First 50 miles didn't seem to change anything, but went on a 30-mile round trip this morning, and the temp needle stayed lower than normal. At least for where it has been running. The temp needle usually sits towards the top of the bubble and moves past it a little, but it stayed right in the middle of the bubble for most of the trip until the last 5 miles when I got off the highway and sat at a couple of lights, the needle moved up to the top of the bubble and stayed there. When I got home, I did see evidence of coolant out of the top of the overflow tank, and it was filled to the top. I took it easy and kept the RPM's right around 3 on the highway the whole way. Another issue is that when the needle gets to the top of the bubble, it kicks on the low speed of the rad fan, but never really seems to move the needle down, so the fan just stays constantly running.

Sniff test=Combustion gas test

Steel Seal is pretty much just Sodium Silicate (Water Glass)
I would describe it as a liquid, not a goo at all.

[MarkWard]

If the radiator fan is coming on moving down a flat road, the radiator fins are likely caked with dirt and the radiator is not getting good airflow through it. If it happens going up a long grade, I’d expect the radiator to not cycle or possibly getting into the fan high speed.

[khughes]

[Abscate]

Skip the schmoo , take the trip , and watch your temp gauge. You could bring it along as a emergency stop gap or just scope out Uhaul truck/ trailer in case you need to get yourself home. Back off speed on those hills to keep the horsepower and heat down, which helps your cooling system of course. Use your flashers and enjoy the view
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