Wires??!! 67 beetle

[Broke67beetle]

So I have my car at the mechanic shop
Just looking over some of the stuff they did ? I was hoping to be able to put this spair tire back( hopes of one day having the original wiper, sprayer.(pissers)work even if it's just temp) and there is a whole bunch of wires, and they put the horns down on the inside?
I don't remember that being there.
Can someone tell me where it's supposed to run? Or maybe I just didn't notice it before

At least they left the broken pieces. Can you see that spade bit? I'm not sure if I can. Weld it back on? I guess I do need a new fuse box( lol)

I really don't think those wires were there before

The bottom terminal when I purchased the car Had a wire running directly from the battery
I had jumpered a wire to a terminal that was constant hot on the fuse panel
They told me it was necessary to remove that ?
What does it do? Is it important car starts without it.

[rcooled]

[Broke67beetle]

[Broke67beetle]

So this thread. Is because my previous thread was basically just relating to alternator issues. but kind of are still relevant
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=803771&highlight=
i plan on asking questions about the things I don't understand about the wiring to try and figure out where things went wrong after I got it back from the mechanic.
But I'm gonna Post pictures things and go over the entire car pretty much is the goal.
Please chime in if you see something that stands out, that could be my issue.

I'm gonna run all the tests from the previous post again.

****But if anyone knows please ****

super confused about on my Ignition switch.(back side of the key)
The very bottom pin. I think terminal 30. It's not connected to anything.
Is that important?? What is it suppose to connect to

[runamoc]

[Broke67beetle]

[VW_Jimbo]

30 is the circuit throughout the car. It denotes battery voltage positive.

Here is the wire diagram from the Technical Section.

The horn is H3
The horn switch is H1
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[ashman40]

Just want to clear up your objective with your horn and ignition switch? Are you just trying to go back to stock wiring or just trying to get them working?

Horn: The black/yellow wire from the fuse box powers the horn. It runs directly from the fuse box to the horn (+) terminal. The black/yellow wire runs along side the brake switch wires (black/red) usually within a shared sleeve. Follow these wires from the fuse box down the left side of the fuel tank. I'm not certain the path in '67 but I believe both sets of wires run thru the grommet at the upper left (upper right as viewed from the front of the car into the trunk) and pass from the trunk space down into the space below the fuel tank. You can see the grommet and wires at the upper right corner of the fuel tank in this pic.

From here the wires run to the brake MC and to the horn.
I believe there is also a cut/tab in the inner left fender well where the horn wire passes on its way to the horn. This keeps it from flopping around. I would recommend adding a sleeve to the wire as it passes thru the slot.
The second wire to the horn runs from the horn (-) terminal back up into the trunk space and ends at the horn button/ring.


Ignition switch: The stock ignition switch wiring has a thick red wire running from the headlight switch #30 terminal to the #30 terminal of the ignition switch. This #30 wire is the power source to the ignition switch. On '70-earlier Beetles, the power from the battery stops first at the headlight switch in the trunk. The headlight is the distribution point for all battery constant power in the trunk space. From the headlight switch the power branches to the fuse box and the ignition switch.
The #50 and #15 terminals on the ignition switch are the outputs. #15 wire runs back to the fuse box to power a pair of fuses as well as continue on to power the ignition coil (unprotected by a fuse). #50 runs to the starter solenoid, also unprotected by a fuse.
I can understand why the PO might want to run power over a separate line from the battery straight to the ignition switch. It reduces the burden on the single stock red #30 wire that carries ALL the load. This second wire directly to the ignition switch means the load for all electrical devices is split over two power sources.
No matter whether you are getting your ignition switch power from the headlight switch (stock) or a dedicated wire from the battery (not stock) I cannot see how the ignition is able to power the fuses or the starter solenoid without a #30 wire connected.


You mention accessory position on your ignition switch description. The stock ignition switch only had 3 positions: OFF, ON/RUN and START. The START position is spring loaded and when turned to this position the starter motor cranks the engine. The ON/RUN position is where everything is powered. On most cars the ACC (accessory) position is where the only the radio and less critical systems are powered. VW Beetle ignition switches don't have an ACC position. Are you running a stock ignition switch and nothing else? If you are able to crank the starter with the ignition switch without the #30 wire connected you have something wired wrong. Confirm where the other wires (#15 and #50) run.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Broke67beetle]

I guess the main thing would be stopping any parasitic draw
Stock would be nice it would make it easier to follow the wiring diagram.
But the main goal is working
And not overloading any other systems

Sorry, I'm not very good with terminology. I always thought accessory was, on But not running

I was just redoing the horn wires
Since I don't know how they did it at the mechanic shop
I just made some pieces that connect to the wiring the mechanic did

I ran them out where the headlight wires go out
I am pretty happy with it still needs some tucking

This last one I forgot to put the shrink tubing on, and now I can't get it apart on the back end. But other than that, I'm gonna try and tuck them inside the wiring harness, but I have another wire harness cover if it doesn't fit, I can just put over the outside.

Edit
Wires tucked
Rust prevention applied
Ready for spare

[Broke67beetle]

[Broke67beetle]

[slayer61]

The 1.5, 2.5 etc is the size of the wire in millimeters
_________________

[aquifer]

Here is a chart to convert metric wire size to AWG. As slayer61 said, those little numbers are the metric size of the wire. They dont’ always match up perfectly, for example where the wiring diagram calls for 1.0, I use 18 AWG.

I made this chart for myself as a guide. I’m pretty sure it’s accurate, but you never know about what you find online these days!

_________________
Parts needed:
Front & rear NOS or used OEM door panels for a '67 in the original Gazelle color (dark tan/light brown).
Also looking for used white headliner pieces, both perforated and non-perforated.

[Broke67beetle]

Thank you that is really helpful
aquifer slayer61 i was thinking wire gage but definitely not metric

So if am reading the diagram correctly

D is the ignition switch 50 is the bottom circuit, which runs to the starter? That means it is only a single pin
There should not be 2
So it probably has an adapter on it which i can remove ?

Why would previous owner have had that ran to the battery

Is their any reason to leave that or connect it to something

[Broke67beetle]

Yep

Red wire goes to harness (battery?)
Green wire goes to the switch behind the wiper motor (f?)

That looks right

***edit*** picture is wrong green is headlight Switch red is battery.
Numbers are incorrect circuits. They should be reversed.

trying to reconnect, D 50 i now know why they added the extra connector, if it was just a little longer

[aquifer]

[Broke67beetle]

[Broke67beetle]

***edit ***

No

****Edit ****

I think this is right

[Broke67beetle]

Looking at the diagram assuming what I can't see is correct.
Everything should be fine

I just can't understand why sometimes the generator light doesn't come on with the key in the on position and the engine not turned over

[KTPhil]

Barney should never have been allowed to own a Beetle, much less paint it.
_________________
Current Fleet:
- '71 Fastback
- '69 Westfalia
Retired:
- '67 Beetle
- '65 Beetle (x2)
- '65 Bus
- '71 Squareback