Vanagon AC Engine Options

[catch_me]

I am a newer owner of a pretty much all original 1983 Vanagon that is a 2.0 liter air cooled version. That being said it has now 126,000+ miles on a the original engine after our 2500 mile trip we just took in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

I am just curious as we had a lot of fun and now are totally bit by the Vanagon traveling bug, and I like the idea of keeping it air cooled rather than going with a swap, what would be the recommended engine specs for a rebuild? I am hoping to keep the OEM fuel injection as that seems to be working fine, but would not mind boring it out to get a little more power (not sure what a max displacement is still reliable in the vanagons), and know that would require new heads as well.

I know there are thread out there on this but some are quite old and looking for currently what and who would people suggest for parts and building of this project.

[jlrftype7]

If you're not burning or consuming oil, you're half the way there to not doing anything....
Find out what you have to begin with before planning to rebuild or upgrade:

With a Compression Check, you can get an idea of the health of the engine.
If you see readings close to 100 psi, or a fair amount of difference between cylinders in those compression readings, you start to prepare for engine rebuild or swap time, or dive further into the engine in case its a valve sealing issue and not a ring issue.
If you're all relatively even in your cyl readings, and above 100 psi at like 120 or better, then it's oil pressure measuring if you want to go the next step.
Hot Oil pressure is what you're looking for, at idle and at higher engine RPMs.

For more power, contact one of the engine builders here on Samba or ones listed. Be prepared to be shocked at what it costs to go bigger, or even just a really nice stock rebuild with an eye towards reliability versus more power.
Quality Type 4 engine parts are not cheap compared to Type 1 upright air cooled engine parts, but you get a different animal with the Type 4 engine-better suited to life in a Bus for the long haul.

Randy's Air Cooled down in Comfort Texas, posts in the Classifieds for engines, turn key and other options. There are others
_________________
'68 Westy- my first VW and vehicle/Bus- long gone.- sold it to a traveling Swiss couple....
'67 Type 3 Fastback, my 2nd car- gone
'69 Semi-Auto Stick Shift Beetle-gone
2017 MINI Coopers, our current DDs
‘84 Tin Top - Hilga....Auto

[catch_me]

[?Waldo?]

[Nitramrebrab72]

I have a 2.0L Air cooled and drive 12,000miles a year and have been for many years, as regards the oil leaks the usually come from the push rod tubes. They can be changed in situ . The most important advice is to use the green Viton rings not the red silicone ones they both have the same ratings on paper but in reality Viton last 2 to 5 times longer both can resist to 450f and Viton slightly more, the problem with the red silicone ones is they degrade every hot cold cycle Viton does not. The Viton seals should last at least 10 years, silicone 1 to 3 years.

The inner pushrod O-ring (black) ones will last 3 to 5 years so it would be advisable to source a viton for the inner side too. The constructor fitted black and they are good to the block max temps but only just, (not cylinder head temps though)so they are the right ones to save money but will let you down earlier than the viton.
The other leaks come from the rocker cover gaskets, replace and fit with gasket sealant if not they will start to leak within a year. At the same time take advantage to re-adjust the hydraulic tappets, they should be done every 50k to 60k miles.

Remember to remove the lower air shroud and give it a good power wash up there before starting the o ring replacement job if not muck will get into the engine if you are not careful.


As regards the sender leak , it will be the sender it's self leaking ,just replace it,(with the best quality you can find).


Once you have done these three common leaks and you have a nice clean engine to check for leaks go for a drive and check for flywheel and pulley main seal leaks.

If there are minimal or none which is likely then all is done, it may leak from being unused but if you drive it it will start to reseal. Fresh engine oils have swelling agents to keep them taking up the slack from frictional wear, and if it leaks it will cover the outer side of the seal and will swell more than usual and should self seal within a few thousand miles of adding new engine oil. As swelling agent evaporates old engine can be the culprit but it will take driving a few thousand miles with fresh oil to.really know. Synthetic oils have less swelling agents as they have less friction and the seal wears slower so a none synthetic oil change would be a plus for your fresh oil change after replacing the o rings and maybe the next before going to a synthetic oil if preferred. If still leaking after 5k but is slowly reducing be patient, if it is still the same you find un-acceptable then add a minimum amount of swelling agent that should do it but go easy as over swelling will wear out the seal earlier than an ever so slightly leaking seal.

[catch_me]

[?Waldo?]

Those compression pressures are fine.

Out of curiosity, you did the test with the engine warmed up? All spark plugs removed? Throttle wide open? Cranked each cylinder until the gauge stopped moving up?

[catch_me]

[?Waldo?]

Those numbers will typically go up some when warmed up and with the throttle open. The lifters being pumped up can also make a big difference sometimes. Regardless, the numbers are fine.

[Nitramrebrab72]

[MarkWard]

The nicest Vanagon I ever drove was an 80 air cooled that had been fitted with a Porsche 911 3.0 and the 5 speed transmission. What a hoot. If I had an air cooled van and wanted power and reliability, I’d start saving for that setup.

The above is accurate advice. We were doing pushrod seals while the vans were under warranty back in the day. Pretty straightforward job once you’ve done it.

[catch_me]

Thanks for all the advice, looks like the next steps will be try to curb the oil leaks that are likely the common ones from years of sitting and just degradation, and then clean things up really good to get the cooling as efficient as possible!

[?Waldo?]

[GoEverywhere]

It isn't WILDLY expensive to build something like a 2056cc, but for any real performance gains you'll have to ditch the stock EFI. It really can't deal with a camshaft with any overlap at all, which unfortunately are going to be the ones that give you performance.

I had a big bore 2200cc Type-4 in my rig for quite a while that was around 150HP. It moved the van nicely and was a very good upgrade from stock. It wasn't wildly expensive with me doing all the work to build it, and all in all was a great way to stay aircooled... Ultimately though I switched to a Subie engine and its MILES better. But if you want to stay aircooled there's certainly options!

[Nitramrebrab72]

[catch_me]

[Wildthings]

Set your timing at 28° BTDC @3800+ rpms, hose(s) removed from the vacuum canister on the distributor and plugged and the digital idle stabilizer bypassed (if so equipped). The book timing specs works only when everything in the fuel and ignition system is factory new, while the spec given above accounts for parts that are worn a bit and that may not even be the correct part number.

100-200 miles before your next oil change add 4-8 oz of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) to your crankcase to clean things up a little, and then run a relatively thin synthetic oil (like a 5w30, 5w40 or 10w40) to keep the engine as clean inside as possible and to help the lifters pump up. You only want to see 10 psi per 1000 rpms on a VW aircooled engine, as higher oil pressure will cause significant oil to bypass the oil cooler. FWIW, I have always run my Type 4 engines a quart over the mark and gotten nice long life out of my engines.

Check your oil pressure switch for oil leaks particularly ones that appear to be coming from the oil cooler and oil filter area. The oil pressure switch is hidden under the cooling tin and thus hard to see well.

If you ever have the engine removed to do clutch work or other, then would be a good time to do front and rear crankseals and peen around the oil galley plugs and replace other seals and gaskets that are hard to access when the engine is installed and fully dressed.

[MarkWard]

[Nitramrebrab72]

[Nitramrebrab72]

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